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Wednesday, 1 May 2013

Mellow Yellow and Flamenco Style of Plants

REAL WORLD GARDENER Wed. 5pm 2RRR 88.5fm Sydney, streaming live at www.2rrr.org.au and Across Australia on the Community Radio Network. www.realworldgardener.com
Real World Gardener is funded by CBF, Community Broadcasting Foundation.
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The complete CRN edition of RWG is available on http://www.cpod.org.au/ , just click on 2RRR to find this week’s edition.

Spice It Up

with herb expert Ian Hemphill for www.herbies.com.au
165,000 crocus flowers are need to  make about one kilogram of saffron spice. That’s the stigmas of 165 crocus flowers to make up one gram of saffron spice.
If you’ve heard that saying “The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain” well if it’s the plain of La Mancha at harvest time of the Saffron crocus in Autumn, then you’ll smell the fabulous aroma of tasted Saffron as they dry it.

Let’s find out what  real Saffron is all about, .


Crocus sativus or Saffron crocus is grown commercially in Tasmania, but the output is only a blip on the world's commercial market of true Saffron.
Crocus Sativus (saffron Crocus) is best suited to a Mediterranean climate so usually Victoria, South Australia and some areas of NSW. Hot humid and sub - tropical to tropical areas are generally not suitable, so Sydney and North through Queensland are not ideal.
In temperate climates you need to put an ice-cream buckets worth of ice on the bulbs every night during winter to give them sufficient winter chilling. Seems too big an effort.
You can grow the Saffron crocus yourself, but you have to have cold winters and warm summers for the flowers to do any good
Still, it's worth a try if you can't get the real Saffron.
If you have a great recipe using Saffron, write in and tell us about it.Either via email to. realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675,  or post them on Real World Gardeners facebook page, and I’ll post a CD in return.

Vegetable Heroes:

Seed Germination Do's and Don'ts
How to get those seeds to germinate?
  • Seeds have particular temperature ranges, and light requirements to germinate.
  • All seeds germinate when light, temperatures and moisture are close to what they prefer to survive.




  • This might also mean, you can germinate peas in Summer, but they will struggle through the warm months to produce anything, and most likely will be devastated by insect pests and disease.
  • So know when the best time of year to sow your seed, by checking the information on the back of the packet.
  • Seeds also have different times when they still remain viable.
  • All seeds have a seed coat that varies in hardness. Some need a little help to germinate faster and you can do this yourself several ways.
  • The process of softening the seed coat is called scarification and you can do it by shaking some seed in a jar with some coarse sandpaper or sand for a few minutes.
  • Commercially this is done in a large box lined with industrial diamonds. But these seed companies process tonnes of seed every day.
  • The sand method might be used for fine seed that you can then pour into a row, sand and seed altogether, into the garden bed.
  • Some seeds need to be soaked in water first to help them germinate. Sweet peas for example.
  • Seeds that require darkness to germinate are Pansies and Parsley. After you sow these seeds, you need to cover them with damp newspaper or a damp paper towel. Check on them every few days because you need to remove the paper as soon as they’ve sprouted.
  • Most other seeds need light to germinate.
  • Most of them time when I talk about planting in Vegetable Heroes, I mention how deep you should plant your seeds.
  • Why do this?
  • Most seeds do not need ‘instant’ access to light, they can germinate and push up through the soil by drawing from their own energy reserves.
  • Seeds have a food store for the embryo which emerges. If you plant your seeds too deep, the food store runs out before the plant reaches sunlight. All green plant seedlings need access to light so that they can make their own food (through photosynthesis) and continue to grow.
  • The other problem is if you plant them too shallow, then they’ll dry out and die before they get anywhere.
  • Sounds tricky, but if you’re having trouble germinating one type of seed, it’s probably because one of the things I’ve mentioned isn’t just right.
  • My tip if you’re having trouble, is to cover your seeds with a layer of vermiculite, and spray that with water to make sure it’s really wet.
  • Vermicullite let’s in plenty of light in and I mostly get success with seeds that way.
  • I also like to use a mini greenhouse for at least the first week if the weather’s not quite right for the seeds that I’m trying to grow.
  • When I used to work at Yates, I’d get calls about the seeds being of poor quality because the caller couldn’t germinate them.
  • That’s rare although it can happen.
  • I’ve got to say though, seed companies all do germination tests in their laboratories to make sure they get 85% germination rate, before they process and package them.
  • Otherwise they’re wasting their time and money packaging up their seed.
  • If the germination rate is below that number of 85%, then they scarify them and do the germination test again to see if that improves the rate.
  • In any case, if you buy a packet of seeds and can’t germinate them, you can ring up the company and they’ll send you a fresh pack.
  • Another question I was often asked about, was why are some seeds coated with a fungicide called Thiram? This usually makes the seed pink.
  • This is to prevent the seed from rotting when you put it into the ground. Sometimes seeds are prone to fungal attack and are treated that way because of that, or in some cases, the seed supplier doesn’t have a particular certification and the seed company then coats them.
  • Plants grown from this treated seed aren’t poisonous. The only thing that’s poisonous is that pink coating on the seed.

  • So what can you do if you’ve got some seed you’re having trouble with, or if you have some packets of out of date seed? Haven’t we all?
  • How about a Home test for Seed viability?
  • What you need is a sheet of paper towelling, clear plastic bag to fit and spray bottle of water.
  • Spray paper towel so it’s completely moist but not dripping.
  • Add 10 seeds from your packet and space them out on one half of the paper towel.
  • This is doing a seed sample. If 7 or 8 seeds sprout then you have 70 -80% germination rate. If you have only 3-4 seeds sprouting, that means a low germination rate.
  • Either use more seeds to get what you want or not use them at all.
  • Take other half and fold over the seeds.
  • Spray towel again.
  • Put this in zip lock plastic bag and seal it up.
  • Put this into a warm environment such as a cupboard or a desk drawer for about a week.
  • Check on it every 2-3 days to make sure that it remains moist.
  • After a few days, fresh seeds will have sprouted if the seeds are fresh.
  •  
  • Growing from seed is the cheapest and most rewarding way of growing plants.
  • Once you get the knack, you’ll be growing everything from flowers to vegetables.

  • Design Elements

    with landscape designer Louise McDaid
    This month, Design elements is still fixing your garden design problems that are based on soil conditions in your garden.
    Do you have a sloping garden? Some gardeners like to garden on flat ground because it’s easy to get around. No steps to climb, or drag that wheelbarrow or trug up and down the slope.
    But there are ways that make sloping gardens gardenable. My term for not impossible gardening.
    Let’s find out how to garden with this type of site in your garden?

    Anything from terracing, my first thought, to boardwalks, didn’t think of that one, to make your sloping garden interesting and workable. Even gardenable.

    Plant of the Week

    Cuphea ilavea Flamenco series.

    Ever wanted a colourful alternative to mondo grass, or miniature box hedging?
    How about something to add a bit of zing to that border?You can zoosh up your garden while giving yourself a bit of a lift with these new plants.

    Kew fee ah, sound a bit like ta ra ra boom de aah.
    Perhaps not?
    Still Cuphea flamenco series with those latin dance numbers of Rumba, Cha, Cha (picture to the right)and Tango are something you can add to your garden without taking up much room. I’ve got to say though, the breeders don’t know their dances because Tango belongs to the modern ballroom set which includes Modern Waltz, Quickstep and Foxtrot and not Latin dancing.

    You might’ve heard of Cuphea. Llavea 'Tiny Mice' which is a selection from a breeding program carried out in the U.S. This plant had  potential for use as a perennial landscape and ornamental plant.

    C. Tiny Mice gets its name because the red and purple flowers look similar to mouse ears. This Cuphea starts flowering in Spring, and keeps on flowering during the warmer months right through into autumn.

    This series is also called bat –faced cuphea because if you look down at the flowers they do resemble miniature bat faces-maybe of microbats?

    What’s good about this new range of Cuphea bat faced plants?
    Firstly the flamboyant colours of the flowers that are densely packed.
    No dead heading of flowers required.
    As usual they make compact neat mounds of foliage that suits potted colour and garden borders.

    These compact, mounding forms of Cuphea Ilavea are particularly notable for their flower size which are considerably larger than those of other species.
    Each has a contrasting throat colour of deep purple and have slightly ruffled petal edges, creating a highly decorative effect.
    I’ve seen them used to edge quite a long garden path, much the same way the some people might use mini box hedging or mondo grass.
    As with buxus, these plants are dry tolerant once established.
    That means they need a good watering when there’s extended periods of heat.
    Cuphea llavea Flamenco series like a well draining soil and can cope with light frosts but not sever frosts.
    All of the series grow in full sun to a height of 40 cm and 60cm spread.

    Bred in Queensland, Australia this bright collection includes a colour for everyone.
    The Flamenco varieties include: ‘Rumba’, has brilliant orangey-red flowers, with a purple and white throat. (see picture to the right)
     
    ‘Tango’ has large deep pink flowers with a purple throat,





     













    'Samba’ has deep cherry red flowers with a purple throat, (pictured below) and  ‘Cha Cha’ has purple flowers with a deep purple throat.
    All of these flowers have slightly ruffled petal edges.
    Problems with Cuphea Whiteflies and aphids. Prone to root rot, stem galls, dieback, powdery mildew, and a few leaf spots.

    When your Cuphea has finished flower you can prune up to half of the overall size and fertilise with an organic fertiliser next spring to get bushier growth and lots of flowers.

    Sunday, 28 April 2013

    Whistle While You Garden

    Wildlife in Focus

    Whistling Kite

    
    Whistling Kite
    Imagine you’re looking up into the sky and you see a largish bird, gliding slowly, high in the sky. It flaps with slow wing-beats and when holds its wings horizontally, they’re bowed downwards at the tip. As it flies it sometimes makes a loud whistling call but it doesn’t twist its tail when manoeuvring.

    Let’s find out more…I'm talking with Sue Stevens..

    The Whistling Kite (Haliastur sphenurus) is a gingery brown colour and generally untidy or scruffy looking.
    From the above image you can see that the head and underparts are light brown with pale streaks. Dark wings with pale wing linings. The Whistling Kite has a characteristic, long, rounded tail in flight and is plain sandy coloured with paler tips - other kites have straight or forked tails.
    Looking at the Whistling Kite from below, the outer wing feathers are dark coloured and widely fingered. Outer wing rear feathers are pale in colour, inner wing rear feathers are darker brown. The Whistling Kite grows 50 to 60 centimetres long, wingspan 1.2 to 1.5 metres.
    We’d love to about your sitings of the Whistling Kite, just send them or any photos in to. realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675,  or post them on Real World Gardeners facebook page, and I’ll post a CD in return.

    Vegetable Heroes


    Well it’s TIME FOR VEGETABLE HERO  a herb today, and it’s Savory, The Herb of Love
    Winter savory (Satureja montana) is a perennial herb in the family Lamiaceae, native to warm temperate regions of southern Europe
    How many times have you heard the phrase "a savory stew?" Savory is used in herb combinations, such as Herbes de Provence, a French combination of herbs used for seasoning.
    Savory is an annual or perennial herb, Satureja hortenis, for Summer Savory, or Saturejo montana being for Winter Savory.
    Winter savory is now little used in Australia, but for hundreds of years both winter and summer savory have been grown and used, virtually side by side.
    Both have strong spicy flavour.
    All Savory’s belong to the mint or Lamiaceae family. They have dark-green,narrow leaves for winter savory and light green narrow leaves for summer savory.
    The savories  can be used fresh or  dried and crushed.
    The history of savory goes back about 2000 years and they are one of the oldest culinary herbs.
    The genus Satureja was is derived from the word satyr, the half-man, half-goat creature in mythology who owned the savories.
    It has been associated with love potions for centuries.
    Romans used savory as a medicinal and culinary herb long before they discovered pepper.
    They used it as a medicinal herb for bee stings, and as an aphrodisiac.
    I have an English friend who says she grew this herb back in England and used it often I her cooking, especially with chicken.
    There are two distinct varieties of savory - summer and winter. Summer savory is most often used for healing. Summer savory is said to increase sex drive, while winter savory decreases it.
    Make sure you get your savories right.


    What does Summer Savory like. Well, it’s no different than growing Thyme, it likes full sun with well-draining soil.
    Savory prefers to be planted in soil that's slightly alkaline.
    Give it a side-dressing of compost or worm castings whenever possible. Summer savory is bushy and low-growing so it makes an excellent edging plant for a kitchen garden, herb bed, or vegetable garden.
    Summer savory likes regular water. I have some growing in a strawberry pot so that it cascades out of one of the holes. It seems to like that spot better than the strawberries. As far as the soil in my container goes, well it’s just potting mix with soil wetter crystals added to it. So you see it's well-suited to container gardening, as well.
    Summer Savory can be grown from seed sown in spring, but that’s if you can get the seed. Some say  these tiny plants resent being transplanted, but I’ve taken pieces from my stock plant and transplanted it into other containers no problems at all/
    If you know of someone with this plant, now’s the time to take soft-stem cuttings of about 2-3 cm long and put them in some seed raising or propagating mix. You probably don’t even need to cover it, because, just like the herb Thyme, it strikes very easily.
    Savory flowers in mid-January with white or pale pink 5mm flowers grouped in terminal spikes.
    You can begin to take the leaves from your savory plant as soon as it reaches 13cm or about 6 inches in height.
    Keeping the plant pruned means you’ll always have some.
     My plant dies down a bit in winter, but always regrows, so that’s a good reason to get some summer savory for your herb garden.
    Tips For The Chef
    Summer savory, Satureja hortensis, is a nice herb to use when you are cutting back on salt-it's flavour is mild, a little bit similar to thyme, but with it's own unique flavour.
    To me, it has a slightly peppery flavour, but a piney fragrance when you crush it in your hand.
    You can mince summer savory and combine with bread crumbs for coating fish or vegetables such as squash before sauteeing. Use it in potato dishes, tomato sauces, meatballs or vegetable juices. It's also great in egg dishes such as omelets and frittatas.
    Savory is popular in teas, herbed butters, and flavoored vinegars. It complements beef soup and stews, chicken soup, eggs, green beans, peas, rutabagas, asparagus, onions, cabbage, and lentils. Use savory when cooking liver, fish and game.
    Mince fresh summer savory leaves and combine with garlic, bay and lemon for a good marinade for fish.
    Savory blends well with other herbs such as basil, bay leaf, marjoram, thyme and rosemary. It is said that the taste of savory brings all these herbs together in a unique taste that makes savory an Amalgamating herb.
    Why is it good for you?
    A tea made from summer savory is said to control a mild sore throat.
    Rubbing a sprig of savory on an insect bite will bring instant relief. Savory herb is an excellent source of minerals and vitamins -. Its leaves and tender shoots are one of the richest sources of potasium, iron, calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc and selenium.

    This herb also has dietary fibre. Who would believe?

    Design Elements

    with landscape designer Louise McDaid
    This month, Design elements is still fixing your garden design problems that are based on soil conditions in your garden.
    If you’ve ever parked around a tree and not thought much about it, think again, because you’re reducing the amount of oxygen in the soil through soil compaction.
    Plants actually do need oxygenated soil to live and grow.
    What do you do if you have heavy clay soil?Let’s find out how to garden with this particular soil profile in garden?

    Clay soil might be hard to dig, but also dries into an impenetrable rock like substance eventually.
    As we mentioned, there are a number of ways to improve the soil, or you can go with the flow and grow plants that appreciate that type of environment.
    Of course if you want to grow carrots and parsnips,  or a plant that your really hanker for, buy or make one of those raised veggie gardens that stand about a metre or more above the soil.
    Adding sand to clay soils doesn’t improve clay soils, it just makes sandy clay, and that’s just a bad combination.
    As I said last week, there’s quite a few things you can do to improve clay soil profiles, but remember if you try and do it all at once it’ll overwhelm you and you’ll feel like giving up. Be like the tortoise, easy does it, and a bit at a time. Over time, you’ll manage the conditions and have a fabulous garden, guaranteed.

    Plant of the Week:

    Did you know that Acacia is actually Wattle? It’s just the scientific name.
    If you’ve ever wanted a native garden that’s neat and tidy and just like something that English gardeners would envy, you can’t go past this new range of Wattles that are related to the River Wattle or Acacia cognata.
    Easier to remember that Buddleja, just say Limelight Wattle, or Bower Beauty wattle, Curvaceous Wattle or Wattle Green Mist.
    Plant a row of them in the ground or in matching pots.
     New Breed of ACACIAS!
    There‘s now a new range of acacias bred by Australian native specialists Native Plant Wholesalers that fit the bill as compact native plants with fantastic garden performance.
    All these compact Acacias fit the bit for mass plantings, or for garden tubs or large pots. The foliage provides year round interest and fits into native, exotic, oriental and tropical garden styles.
    All of these Acacias grow in full sun to part shade, they have varying heights and will tolerate a range of soils as long as they’re well drained.
    All of these are termed dry tolerant, that means they need occasional deep watering during long periods of heat.
    Best part is they don’t require any pruning but will appreciate some native fertiliser each Spring.
    a.         Acacia Bower Beauty a form of Acacia cognata grows to 1 x 1.2m Compact, with a tight compact but weeping habit. Easy to grow like all Acacias and is dry tolerant. Origin Mt Gambier. Tolerates a light frost. This one has bronze coloured new growth.
    b.        Acacia Curvaceous-slightly smaller, growing to 7-cm x 1m. fine lime green foliage.
    c.         Acacia Green Mist, 1.2 x 2 metres.soft lemon coloured flowers in Spring.
    d.        Acacia limelight originates in Mt Gambier SA. And is a dwarf form of Acacia cognata.  Grows in full sun or part shade to 1,5m x 1 m. Lime green foliage, grows into a natural dome shape and is available as a grafted standard.
    e.         You might want to team up these new bread Acacias with one from your region.
     I’ve chosen Acacia decora or Showy Wattle  or western Silver Wattle. This Acacia is a small to large shrub, often under 2 metres in height but sometimes to 5 metres. The leaves are really something referred to as phyllodes are lance-shaped, blue-green in colour, with a prominent mid-vein and minor branching veins. The yellow globular flowers are clustered both at the ends of the branches (terminal) and in the leaf or phyllode axils, making this one of the most showy of all wattles.
    This is a hardy species which is tolerant of a wide range of conditions. It prefers well drained soils in light shade to full sun. A.decora is a worthwhile addition to gardens in many areas of Australia.


    Possible problems with Acacias
    There's been some suggestion that Acacia cognata doesn't do too well in some eastern states of Australia.
    Possibly these Acacias are succumbing to Phytophthera that's widespread in Australian soils.
    Symptoms of Phtophthera are random branch die-back over an extended period of up to two years.
    Should any plant have branches that die back at random, rather than just a general dieback from the top down, and you suspect Phtophthera, treat with Ban Rot.




    Thursday, 18 April 2013

    Natural Bush and Butterfly Bush

    REAL WORLD GARDENER Wed. 5pm 2RRR 88.5fm Sydney, streaming live at www.2rrr.org.au and Across Australia on the Community Radio Network. www.realworldgardener.com
    Real World Gardener is funded by CBF, Community Broadcasting Foundation.
    REALWORLD GARDENER NOW ON FACEBOOK
    The complete CRN edition of RWG is available on http://www.cpod.org.au/ , just click on 2RRR to find this week’s edition.
    The new theme is sung by Harry Hughes from his album Songs of the Garden. You can hear samples of the album from the website www.songsofthegarden.com

    Living Planet

    with ecologist Katie Oxenham
    You look after your garden right but what about the natural bushland in your area? Who looks after that? Are there plenty of weeds in the bush around your area or is there  a distinct lack of bush or native vegetation.
     


    Is your area a gateway to your heaven? A comment on our facebook page lists Eden as the gateway to their heaven. Eden to Bombala up Mt Darrugh Rd through beautiful Cool Temperate Rainforest-spectacular. But nothing...I mean nothing... can compare to the absolutely vast and awesome beauty of the alpine snowy mountain ranges between Bombala and Cooma. At last peace and solitutude.
    Does that sound like your surrounding countryside?
    If your place needs some TLC, you can change all that by being involved in Bush Regeneration or landcare? Let’s find out more….
    You can find out more about joining groups at www.aabr.org.au or at www.landcarevic.net.au and www.landcarensw.org.au  and www.landcare.org.au for Queensland.
    We’d love to your bush regeneration stories, just send them in to. realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675,  or post them on Real World Gardeners facebook page, and I’ll post a CD in return.

    Vegetable Heroes

     Well it’s TIME FOR VEGETABLE HERO -  Endive-the bitter version of lettuce or is it?
    Cichorium endivia is a leaf vegetable belonging to the daisy or Asteraceae family.
    That means that should your Endive bolt to seed, or you let a few go to flower, you’ll attract beneficial insects to your garden that’ll control your pest population.
    Endive is a green leafy plant that looks a lot like frizzy and crinkly lettuce with a slightly bitter taste. If you don’t like bitter notes in your food I’ll tell you how you can grow it without turning bitter a little later.
    Did you know that Endive is a cool weather green, because like hearting lettuce, it bolts to seed in warm weather?
    Now is the perfect temperature to sow the seeds of Endive.
    Traditionally lettuce is eaten raw but Endive can be cooked or used raw in salads.
    Belgian endive was first produced in 1830, by accident. The story goes that a Brussels farmer, stored chicory roots in his cellar, intending to dry and roast them for coffee (a common practice in 19th century Europe). But when he returned to his farm after serving in the Belgian War of Independence, he found that the roots, had sprouted small, white leaves. He took a taste and found the leaves to be quite tasty and crunchy.
    The market stalls of the capital began to display this new vegetable in 1846, and it quickly became known as Brussels endive.
    There are three main varieties of cultivated endive:
    (i)Frisée or Curly endive, (var crispum) and Escarole or broad leaved endive. (var latifolia.)
      Curly Endive has narrow, curly outer twisted leaves that are firm and bitter to taste. The outside leaves are dark green, while the core can be yellow or white.
    (ii)  Escarole, or broad-leaved endive (var latifolia) has broad, pale green leaves and is less bitter than the other varieties. Broad-leaf Endive consists of a bunch of thick broad leaves that are coarse and slightly tough in texture.
    This type of Endive is eaten like other greens, sauteed, chopped into soups and stews, or as part of a green salad.
    (iii)Belgian Endive or Witloof is really quite different to the other types of endive, with a narrow, lightly packed pointed head that looks like a spearhead.
    Witloof as I’ve seen it called ranges in colour from pale yellowish-green to white.
     But whatever type of Endive you grow, you’ll find that’s it’s dead easy, like a lot of lettuce type vegetables.
    If you grow Endive yourself you’ll save money because it tends to be the more expensive of the greens in the supermarket or greengrocer.
    Are you asking when shall I put in the seeds of Endive ?
    For Tropical, sub-tropical and Arid areas, sow your endive seeds from April to July,
     
    In temperate zones, March until May, then again in early Spring, and in cool temperate districts you had March, possibly still try in April, but unless you have a greenhouse of some sort, wait until September, October.

    Endive is best planted at soil temperatures between 15°C and 25°C. and should be ready to pick in 10-11 weeks.
      Endive seeds are very fine but try and spread the seeds as thinly as possible directly into the garden.
    Cover the seeds with a very fine layer of sieved composted or seed raising mix.
    Water lightly, and keep soil moist. Thin plants to 15cm apart, in rows 45cm apart.
    Tip: Some people sprinkle the seeds on top of a fine soil, and just water them in.
    You can start endive in punnets or trays just as you would for heading lettuce and transplant later if you want.
    If you’re doing the punnet thing, spray them daily with a fine mist of water until the seeds germinate, transplanting them about 20 - 30 cm apart
    Like other greens, endive tastes best when it grows fast.
    to do this, make sure it gets enough water and fertilizer.

    Don't want Bitter?
    The slightly bitter taste can add zing to a salad bowl but if you’re not into bitter tasting lettuce, you can take out the bitterness by blanching. 
    Not in boiling water, but out in the garden.
    Blanching is a technique used in vegetable growing.
    Young shoots of a plant are covered to exclude light, so that they don’t produce as much chlorophyll, or the green stuff in leaves.
    The result is leaves that are paler in colour.
    Blanch by tying the leaves together or cover with a large pot for about 3 weeks. 
    Tip: An easy way to blanch your endive is to cut off the top and bottom of a milk carton and pop it over your Endive plant 1-3 weeks before they are ready. That should be about 7 weeks after you sowed the seeds, so put a note in your diary.
    That way, the stems will be whitish and not so bitter.
    Why is it good for you?
      Endive is rich in many vitamins and minerals, especially in folate and vitamins A and K, and is high in fibre. Endive is low in saturated fat and cholesterol, a great addition to your weight loss program.
       HAPPY, WATERING, FERTILISING, MULCHING AND ULTIMATELY HAPPY SNIPPING WITH YOUR SUCCESS IN GROWING ENDIVE. AND THAT WAS OUR VEGETABLE HEROE If you have any questions about growing beets or chicory or any other vegetable, realworldgardener@gmail.com

    Design Elements
     

    with Landscape Designer Louise McDaid
    This month, Design elements is still fixing your garden design problems that are based on soil conditions in your garden.
    You might have light coloured sandy soil, or red or black coloured heavy clay type soil, or maybe your soil is limey and quite alkaline.
    You could have a mix of a few types of soil profiles depending on your site.Each one of these soil profiles has advantages and disadvantages.
    Today we’re discussing sandy soil.Let’s find out how to garden with this particular soil profile in garden?


    Sandy soil might be easy to dig but also dries out very quickly and is usually a lot poorer in nutrients that heavier types of soils.
    Adding sand to clay soils doesn’t improve clay soils, it just makes sandy clay, and that’s just a bad combination.







    There’s quite a few things you can do to improve sandy soil profiles, but remember if you try and do it all at once it’ll overwhelm you and you’ll feel like giving up. Be like the tortoise, easy does it, and a bit at a time. Over time, you’ll manage the conditions and have a fabulous garden, guaranteed/

    Plant of the Week:

    NEW BUDDLEJAS!
    Common names might be easier, but as I mentioned, too many plants might have the same common name.Just think if plant breeders decided to all colour their colourful, butterfly attracting plants Butterfly Bush?
    We wouldn’t have any idea what we’re buying.
    So, occasionally it doesn’t hurt to have an idea of the Botanical or scientifical name, or even it’s cultivar.
    Buddlejas davidii is the plant of the week, but the new hybrids released as Buddleja BUZZ series.
    These plants have showy flower and perfume as well.
    Beautiful Buddlejas, with their large colourful, perfumed flowers, have been a staple in gardens in Australia for  many generations.
    Some gardeners gave up on them because they grew quite big and if left unpruned became rangy and straggly.




    You had to know when to prune them, and often a really hard prune was essential for new growth and more flowers.
    Then when the flowers finished, the bush looked nothing special for a while before until it put on new growth and flowered again.
    Some of us kept on hankering after Buddlejas because of the perfumed flowers that attracted a range of butterflies and bees., and kept on growing them.
    My fave is still Buddleja ‘Black Knight”  with it's deep purple flowers you see in the photograph with the Monarch butterfly. Yes, taken in my garden.
    It’s hanging in there for about 5-7 years.
    As a cut flower they last in the vase no more than a few days, but I like the fragrance and the butterflies it attracts.
    Besides, the really dark rich purple colour, the perfume is heavenly! But I'm not overly fussed about the constant pruning to get the flowers.

    Buddleja BUZZ was released last spring but not all nurseries may have stocked them until now.
    The parents of Buddleja BUZZ™ are from the open forests of China where, over the centuries Buddleja davidii have hybridised readily in nature.
    You might be aware that some of the larger species of Buddleja davidii are considered as weeds and not sold any more in nurseries.
    The plant breeders selected the best types that had been collected in China. They were looking for dwarf varieties, with good flower colour and lots of them.
    Why dwarf? The trend for smaller gardens and the clamour for more flowers!
    These Buddlejas like the same conditions as the older types, that is, full sun or part shade, but are true dwarf Buddlejas that can be kept under 1 metre with little pruning.
     Generally speaking Buddlejas grow in most types of soil, but will do better if you add some compost to sandy soil.
    You also need to keep Budlejas well mulched and water during dry periods, because they definitely will wilt, and possibly die under prolonged dry conditions.

    In winter temperatures to 5°C are tolerated but heavy frosts will cut them back.
    If you want to grow them in Canberra, grow them in containers on your patio or veranda.
    For the new type of Buddlejas, all you need to do during the yearx is trim back the older growth when flowers are showing signs of slowing off and getting smaller.
    Fertilise in spring after the main pruning to encourage new faster growth.
    While older Buddleja varieties grow 2-4 metres tall, BUZZ® varieties stay between 1-1.2 metres tall and can be pruned to shape.
    The best thing is although  the plants are a third the size of old varieties, the flowers remain the size of the standard types.
    So now plant lovers with small gardens can enjoy the showy and scented flowers in garden beds, in large pots or as cut flowers.
    These new varieties are BUZZ® Sky Blue Cool sky-blue flowers, BUZZ® Ivory Creamy-white flower spikes and BUZZ® Purple Luscious deep-purple flower spikes.
    HINT:try and remember Buddleja?  Think of Princess Leja from Starwars and her buddy. Or maybe you can think of a better way of remembering Buddleja.

    Friday, 12 April 2013

    Fairy Wrens, Cannas and Beans

    Gardening Tips for You

    If you haven’t attended to pruning your shrubs and hedges because it’s been too hot and dry, now’s the time before the weather really cools down.
    Leave Camellias alone, because they’ll be budding up for flowering over the next few months, depending on where you live.
    In warm and temperate areas, Camellia sasanquas are probably flowering right now.
    Unless you live in the tropics, or have a greenhouse,  pull out those tomato seedlings that are popping up everywhere, they’ll amount to nothing and just cover your plants. Wrong time of year for those guys.

    Wildlife in Focus

    Fairy Wrens

    Superb Fairy Wrens
    Small birds are on the decline in some parts of Australia, but there are ways to help them survive. Apart from their cuteness, they make up the diverse range of fauna that Australia has to offer but are generally defenceless to a range of predators.
    If you saw a flash of blue and heard a squeaky reeling song, would you know which small bird it was? Let’s find out….with ecologist,Sue Stevens

    As Sue mentioned, Fairy wrens live and forage in family groups in understorey bushes. They even move around in understorey bushes.To help these small birds, think about increasing the amount of understorey planting you have in your garden, or perhaps volunteer for some bushcare project that involves planting habitat for small birds.We’d love to see photos of any sightings you have of the Variegated Fairy Wren or any birds you’ve got visiting your garden, just send them in to. realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675,  or post them on Real World Gardeners facebook page, and I’ll post a CD in return.

    Vegetable Heroes

    Broad beans are one of the easiest vegetables to grow in your veggie patch.
    Vicia faba or BROAD BEANS or some people know it as the Faba bean.
    Although no near ancestor has been found in the wild, remains of the broad or faba bean have been found in Neolithic sites in Israel dating back to 6800-6500 BC.
    Broad beans are native to North Africa and southwest Asia, but they were cultivated in other regions very early on as well.
    Fossil evidence has been found of Broad Beans being grown at least 4500 BC.
    Did you know that in the Roman Senate the beans were used to vote, white bean for yes and black bean for no? Maybe that’s where the term bean counters comes from?
    Broad beans are in the bean or Fabaceae family, but they look different and grow differently to their beany cousins.
    Broad beans grown into a large, upright, bushy plant up to about 1 ½-2  metres.
    Most varieties have white flowers with black eyes, but some older varieties have red flowers that look nice, but don’t set pods nearly as much as the white flowering ones.
    Each pod is shiny green with very short fuzzy hair, and is roundish, and quite long with a pointy end.
    Each Broad Bean pod contains 4-8 light green  to white, rounded and kidney-shaped beans.
     The beans are quite chunky, about 2cm and the pods can grow to as much as 50cm
    The bean plants tend to be bushy, with square, hollow stems and without beany tendrils. 
    There’s two main varieties, the dwarf bush or the tall variety that needs staking.
    Like all beans, they fix atmospheric nitrogen and so, are also useful as a green manure.
    Best of all, they are hardy, easy to grow.
    WHEN TO PLANT:
    Plant them in March to June in temperate and sub-tropical areas, April to July in arid areas, , and April and May, then August and September for cool temperate zones in Australia.
    Broad beans prefer a sunny well-drained position in the garden.
    Broad beans can be grown in soils with high salinity, as well as in clay soil, so they're pretty adaptable.
    You veggie bed's soil should fertile, but not too much of the chook poo or other  rich manure as you'll only get leaf growth rather than flower (and bean) production and will make the plant more sensitive to frost and disease.
    Direct planting into roughly prepared soil is the best way to grow BB.
    Sow the seeds about 5-10cm deep, with 15-20cm between plants you need 2 ruler lengths between rows. That's if you've got the room, but there's a reason for this..
    Your broad beans will start sprouting in about 2 weeks after sowing, but will be slower the later you sow towards winter.
    Soaking seeds overnight in diluted liquid seaweed can speed this up….germination.
    Water seeds well as soon as you've put them into the ground and, then, don't water them…
    MOST IMPORTANT   until after germination, to prevent the seeds from rotting. Ok, YOU CAN'T DO MUCH ABOUT IT IF IT RAINS.
    Broad beans will need to be staked or supported to stop the plant collapsing under the weight of the mature beans.
    If your district experiences a bit of frost, flowers formed during frosty weather are probably not going to set pods. Once spring arrives, pinch out the tips of the plants to encourage pod set.
    Try to limit water stress as this will also affect pod set. That means don't let them dry out!
    In  3-5 months, depending on how cold the weather is, the beans will be ready.
    Broad bean pods can be picked at several stages. Firstly, they can be picked when small and can be snapped crisply in half. In which case you can eat them like young green beans.
    Secondly, if allowed to grow larger but the seeds are still soft, you don’t have to shell them. The bean seeds, but don’t eat the pods at this stage.
     Finally, they can be grown until fully mature and the seeds have dried. In this last case the seeds are used as dried beans and are called Lima Beans.
    Broad beans are prone to fungal attack - brown spots on stems and leaves - particularly if planted too closely together or if planted in soils too rich in nutrients.
    Towards the end of the crop, rust - producing powdery spots on the leaves - can become a problem. Plants with black tips may suffer from root rot, caused by poor drainage. Remove affected plants and re-sow.
    Freshly shelled broad beans can be frozen, blanched and then frozen or stored in the fridge for about 5 days.
    Broad beans are legumes meaning they convert nitrogen in the atmosphere into nitrogen in the soil. The nitrogen is attached to their roots and becomes available in the soil once the beans die down.
    Dig in the roots and leaves after picking all the beans, to add nitrogen to the soil.
    You can then lay the tops on the soil or use it as mulch elsewhere in the garden. It, too adds nitrogen to the soil as it breaks down.
    As the beans mature it is better to remove their tough outer skins after cooking.
    The leafy top shoots of the adult plants can be picked and steamed after flowering.
    WHY ARE THEY GOOD FOR YOU?
     Beans are high in protein and carbohydrates, rich in vitamin C and are also a good source of vitamins A, B and folate.
    Beans also provide potassium and iron in facto 100g of beans has as much iron as a pork chop.
    Broad beans are a good source of fibre. Bon Appetit!

    Design Elements

    with landscape designer, Louise McDaid.


    This month, Design elements is still fixing your garden design problems that are based on how much or how little light or sun your garden’s getting.Not all gardens have constant shade and sun, and sometimes when it’s only sunny or shady for some of the year, finding a plant that suits that location is a bit too tricky. It’s an all too common problem for the modern gardener.But all is not lost. Let’s find out what can help if you have an awkward spot in your garden?

    Sunny in summer, shady in winter? There were lots of suggestions for which plants to choose no matter what your style of garden.
    From annuals that require replanting every year, perhaps try last week’s plant of the week, Sunsatia Nemesia that come in all those mouth-watering colours. Perhaps choose some shrubs that can cope with the two extremes, or a deciduous tree.

    Plant of the Week

    A while back, Design elements talked about Tropical gardens for cool climates. Might sound a bit strange, but it’s actually it’s not only possible, but desirable, especially if you have hot summers. One of the plants suggested can cope with extremes of temperatures, and if you can offer protection from frost, you get almost all year round benefit from the flowers as well as the foliage colour.
    Cannas aren’t a lily but are related to heliconias, babanas and gingers. Cannas belong in the family Cannaceae.
    Cannas grow from an underground root or rhizome that continues to multiply depending on the variety of Canna that you have.
    The flowers grow up through tightly furled leaf bases or 'false stems'.
    The flowers remind me a blowsy iris flowers, but in much brighter, hotter colours generally.
    Modern canna hybrids come in four different sizes: pixie (45cm-60cm), dwarf (60cm-100cm), medium (1m-1.5m) and tall (1.5m-2m).
    They come in all colours except blue and black. The leaves also come in a range of colours from green, blue-green, purple, burgundy, bronze or striped.

    Growing cannas are a must in the flower gardens as they flower for eight to nine months of the year in most climate zones in Australia. 

    When planting Cannas, to get the most out of flowering you need to think of them as sun and heat loving plants, even though they can grown in a range of cliamtes from hot tropical climates, to cool temperate areas as well.

    Cannas need 5-6 hours of sun to flower well.

    If you have plants with variegated or bronze foliage they colour up better in a semi-shaded position although you''ll get less flowers.
     

    Then again, I have a friend who grows them for the colour of the leaves and trims of the orange flowers because she doesn’t like that colour.

    Cannas are very dry tolerant once the rhizome has established, but don't forget to water them during extended periods of dry and hot days.
    I have some purple leaved Cannas that survive mainly on natural rainfall, but I always give them a water on days over 30 degrees.
    Cannas in Winter in cool temperate districts will get frost damage.

    Frost damage on Cannas in winter will leave their leaves looking burnt; even a very light frost will leave behind a brownish mark on their foliage.

    But don’t be alarmed and cut off those frost damaged leaves. New eye growth is constantly being produced on the underground rhizome during winter and this shoots away in early spring as the above ground temperature warm up, because Cannas need warmth for above ground foliage to grow.

    If burnt frost damaged leaves bother you, you can dig up the whole clump, and store in an open box in the garage. Don’t break up the clump, just remove the excess soil before storing for the winter.

    When the last frost has passed, break the clump up and replant. They’ll shoot away in a matter of weeks.
    Big clumps of cannas are tough water wise plants, but it’s wise with single small sized divisions to be careful when watering cannas not to overwater any small plants or they may rot.

     On a recent holiday along the coast of the Great Ocean Road  a friend of mine was I surprised to see many home gardens with cannas in their planting schemes.

    The gardens had beach road frontage and the cannas were thriving and really stood out amongst other hardy garden flowers perennials including Agapanthus and Kniphofias.

     Pruning old flowers isn’t necessary. If you want to give them a bit of a tidy up cut away the old head below the last flower but not far down as the new head that are coming through.
    End of winter is best to prune all Cannas, particularly if they’ve been affected by frost.
    Cut them down to about 30cm. New growth will come from below as the weather warms up.
    Some gardeners lift and divide their Cannas every 3 years, but this depends on how vigorous the variety of Canna that you’ve got.
    WHERE TO BUY CANNAS:
    You can mail order  Cannas from anywhere in Australia from a Victorian nursery-
    Canna Brae Country Garden Nursery
     35 Felix Crescent
     Ringwood North VIC 3134 or ring Anne on 03-9870-1130

    If your neighbour’s have prying eyes, then plant some tall growing canna plants along your fence line's for privacy, you can also use them to provide shade and protection for more tender perennials plants or to hide an ugly fence.

      
    Whether you grow Cannas for the foliage or for the flowers, there’s something attractive about these plants that suits all types of gardens.Get active and plant out some Cannas into your garden bed today?