Flowers the Size of Dinner Plates

SPICE IT UP

Chervil leaf

CHERVIL
This fine delicate herb is not grown as much these days even though it’s been grown as a herb for over 2,000 years!
Although I’m pretty sure that fine restaurants are serving it up as something special, most likely as microgreens.
Belonging in the carrot family, the fine leaves almost do look like carrot tops.
Sometimes sold  as "Fine" (pronounced feen) herbs which is a combination of parsley, tarragon chervil and occasionally a small amount of marjoram.
Definitely lovely on fish dishes, sauces, especially Béarnaise sauce and soups.

Let’s find out about how to use this lovely herb…I'm talking with herb expert Ian Hemphill from www.herbies.com.au



Chervil in the home garden photo M Cannon

Growing Chervil
If you want to grow your own Chervil here are some tips.
The seeds are slow to germinate, but here’s a tip:- The night before sowing, pour boiling water over seeds and leave to soak overnight.
Chervil seeds also need light to germinate so don’t bury them with too much soil or potting mix.
Germination usually occurs in 2-3 weeks but can take longer.
Sow your Chervil seeds only about 5mm deep and thin plants to 30cm apart.
Chervil will grow in any soil but dislikes being too wet although it does need water, but it won’t like being in badly drained soil.
Tip: Best sown in situ as seedlings don’t transplant well and they sometimes bolt when transplanted. A bit like Coriander.
Definitely worth growing even just to try it.
If you're interested in making Chervil soup, try hunting down books by Rosemary Hemphill either "Herbs for All Seasons," or "Fragrance and Flavour," to get the specific recipe that Ian mentions.
If you have any questions about growing Chervil or any other herb, drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675

VEGETABLE HEROES

BETEL LEAF Piper sarmentosumCOMMON NAMES: betel pepper, wild pepper, kadok, la lot
Betel leaf is a native plant to Vietnam and Thailand, and is related to black pepper.
If you’ve ever eaten Thai food chances are that you’ve already eaten Betel leaves or at least had food served on a platter of Betel leaves.
Traditionally, Betel leaf plant was used to treat fever, as an expectorant, for treating toothache, coughs, asthma and pleurisy.

Some say it has a somewhat pungent odour and taste, others find it mild with a hint of black pepper.
I’m going with the mild flavour because that’s what is grown mostly in Australia.
What Does It Look Like?
Betel leaf is an evergreen, perennial creeper that doesn’t grow particularly tall. Only to about 1 metre.
But for the romantic gardener, and I seem to be featuring plants in this segment that can be considered romantic, because Betel leaf has shiny heart-shaped leaves that have a waxy, glossy surface.
There we go, aren’t heart shaped leaves romantic?

Betel leaf vine photo M Cannon



Betel leaf flowers

The flowers are very small –on white flower spikes.
After flowering little dry rounded fruits with little bulges show up –almost like a little green/brown mulberry when ripe and can be eaten;
The fruit is sweet and has a jelly-like pulp.
So what’s betel leaf got going for it?
Romance aside, as a food, it makes a great 'wrap' for prawns and can be shredded to add to salads and quick stir-fry's. 

More on its uses later.
You can grow Betel leaf in most parts of Australia at any time of the year.
All you need to do is find a spot in fairly good, well-drained soil with partial shade.
Under a tree somewhere is good and keep it moist but don’t overdo it because it doesn’t cope with waterlogging. Frost will damage the leaves but not kill the plant once it is well established.
Betel leaf makes a good groundcover under trees in subtropical and tropical areas.
In warmer climates Betel leaf grows really well in the right position and has a habit of suckering which isn’t that difficult to remove.
You can grow it successfully in colder areas but not in the ground.
Put your plant in a hanging basket or large pot and move it to a warm, sheltered position in winter.
By putting your pot on the ground, this will allow the plant to grow out from the pot onto the ground and spread like a ground cover.
As it spreads it sends down roots from sections.

In cooler areas you could try keeping it in a large pot so it sends down multiple roots.
If you’re wondering where to buy it and don’t seem to have any luck try an Asian veggie shops.
It’s easy to propagate from cuttings at the warmer times of the year.
Growers take the top 20cm of the vine and sell it as a bunch to local markets.
You can buy a bunch of Betel leaves, take of the bottom two-thirds of leaves leaving the top few, and recut the bottom.
Put these cuttings in a glass with water and they will be producing roots in no time.
Another method is to take cuttings again about 25 cm long, strip the leaves off the bottom half of the stems and bury to half their length in potting mix.
Cover with plastic or place these cuttings in a greenhouse and keep moist.
Remember Betel leaf plant likes a wet shaded position protected from frost and midday sun; so it’s best under trees that allow some sunlight through to underneath.

Betel leaf vine

So how else can you use Betel Leaf?
The leaves are large enough to wrap a filling.
Betel leaves are often used ‘open’ topped with something delicious like a prawn with coconut.
Include them in a stir fry .
The spicy leaves are popular in south east Asian cooking, being used raw and cooked. To eat raw in a salad or use as a wrapping the younger more tender leaves are the best to use.

Used in omelettes in Vietnamese cooking and to wrap mince.
In Thailand, these wraps are a favourite snack, 'mieng kum', using an assortment of fillings, like peanuts, shrimps, shallots with lime and raw ginger.
Use as a herb in rice or in salads.
They look great as a garnish too .

TIP: If you soak the leaves in cold water with a little sugar for 2 hours before use this changes the flavour just slightly.
As the leaves are a very attractive heart shape, they’re often used as a base to line platters, with foods arranged on top.
The white flower spikes develop into a small fruit that can be eaten.
Fresh leaves are prone to dryness and fungal rots.
You can store the leaves just like lettuce, in the fridge for a few days (3-5) in a sealed plastic bag.
Use as soon as possible soon after.

WHY ARE THEY GOOD FOR YOU?
Good source of protein, potassium, nitrogen and minerals.
The plant has many traditional medicinal uses. Malaysians use the leaves for headaches, arthritis and joint pain.
In Thailand and China the roots are crushed and blended with salt to relieve toothache.  
In Indonesia it’s used as a natural antibiotic, and drunk as a tea daily.
To make the tea, take 2 cups of water and bring to the boil in a saucepan. Drop in 7 mature size leaves, and simmer for a few minutes.
AND THAT WAS OUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

 DESIGN ELEMENTS

This garden series with Garden Designer Peter Nixon, is all about garden challenges thrown at us mostly by nature but also due to a situation in your garden that you might need to fix.
Last week we covered hail damage, sun scorch, garden loopers, and a few other odds and sods that aren’t necessarily damage but a garden challenge all the same

Hail damage on leaves

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Today’s garden challenge is impact damage also from hail, but we’re delving more into what you should do with different plants that have been affected.

I'm talking with Garden Designer, Peter Nixon 

If you come home to find most of your garden covered in leaves because of a recent storm, wind, hail or something else, don't rake it up and dispose of it, but use it as a surface mulch.

Hail damage on stems

Just make sure the leaves are bunched up against the trunks and stems of plants, otherwise you'll have problems with collar rot or other fungal problems.
Don't dig it in because it's green and will draw down nitrogen from the soil.
Quite often the stems are also impacted so the cambium is stripped off leaving only the heartwood.
It it's only a young plant, then it's best to dig it out because the plant has become to weakened.
If the canopy and branches aren't too badly stripped off, then cut back the ragged ends of the stems as soon as possible.
If you have any questions about hail damage in your garden, write in and let us know what happened our email address, or just post it realworldgardener@gmail.com

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Hibiscus rosa-chinensis: Hibiscus moscheutus

Rose Mallow

This next flower is the official state flower of Hawaii, so it’s no surprise that when you see the shrub covered in those flowers that you can’t help but think of sandy beaches, aquamarine seas and grass skirts. 

Let’s find out more.
I'm talking with the plant panel:
Karen Smith editor of www.hortjournal.com.au
and Jeremy Critchley owner of www.thegreengallery.com.au


The common Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-chinensis) that you see in many gardens, grows to about 3 metres tall.
Vigorous growing and best pruning at the beginning of Spring because they flower on new wood.

Hibiscus moscheutos or Rose Mallow Rose Mallow are native to swamps, wetlands and along creek edges in the southeast United States.
These Hibiscus are herbaceous so are good for cold climates because the plant has died down.
Growth is to 80 cm and these Hibiscus prefer shade and part shade.


Hibiscus moscheutus "Pink Swirl.'

All Hibiscus thrive if you give them lots of organic matter with an addition of Potash.

Generally Rose Mallow comes in pink white and red coloured flowers, that's the Luna series which are the only ones available in Australia.

According to growers, they can get up to 80 - 100 flowers, however, the flowers only last a day.

Plant them in a sandy but moisture retaining, slightly acidic soil that has been  enriched with compost or other organic material.

Water regularly and thoroughly during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.

TIP:
Rose Mallow plants should never be allowed to completely dry out, or they’ll immediately stop blooming. 

Plants resent any disturbance to their root system so be extremely careful, soak the soil thoroughly and dig wide before attempting to transplant your Hibiscus.
 

Hibiscus moscheutus "red"

A Bit if Trivia
The official state flower is the yellow hibiscus (Hibiscus brackenridgei), also known as the pua aloalo.
Hawaiians originally adopted the hibiscus flower (of all colors) as their official Territorial flower in the early 1920s.
It wasn’t until 1988, however, that Hawaii’s legislature legally adopted the yellow hibiscus as the official state flower.
The hibiscus originated in Asia and the Pacific islands. It’s believed that there were originally only five hibiscus species native to the Hawaiian islands.

Bananas Bandicoots and Bushes

WILDLIFE IN FOCUS

Most Australians would have you believe that they know what dug those holes in their lawn.

Long Nosed Bandicoot-Perameles nasuta

Some say it’s lawn grubs, others say it’s worms coming up for air and leaving piles of dirt.
Bandicoot isn’t what comes to mind when these gardeners see fresh conical shaped holes with teaspoon sized piles of dirt in their lawn every morning.
Would you believe that most Australians have never actually seen a bandicoot!
Let’s find out what about these piles of dirt and holes. I'm talking with ecologist Sue Stevens

Bandicoots are a gardener’s best friend because they eat spiders, cockroaches, a variety of insects, snails and most importantly their favourite food – the black beetle & beetle larva known as curl grubs. 
These grubs feed on the root system of your lawn causing dieback or brown patches.
Bandicoots are effectively aerating your lawn so that it will grow with renewed vigour during spring.
Bandicoots cause no long-term damage and are beneficial to lawns and gardens.
Remember that Bandicoots are protected and are currently under threat due to both habitat loss and predation.
If you live in a bandicoot territory and you have a suitable food source, you will have bandicoots in your yard.
Once the food source has gone, they will move on.
If you have any questions about Bandicoots, send in a photo, drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

VEGETABLE HEROES:

You may not have heard of Chervil before, or if you’ve seen it at the garden centre, though, “that looks like Parsley, so why do I need to grow it?

First of all, let’s find out what Chervil really is.

Would you believe that Chervil has been around for about the last 2000 years?
It was introduced to Europe by the Romans and used by the ancient Greeks as a rejuvenating tonic.
 The tonic recipe includes dandelion, chervil, watercress and water and was made during the winter months when many types of fruit and vegetables were out of season or hard to find.
Chervil being rich in minerals and vitamins was a good substitute.
It was once called 'myrrhis' because the volatile oil you get from chervil leaves has a similar aroma to  'myrrh' as in frankincense and myrrh.

Quite different to Parsley already don’t you think?

Legend has it that chervil makes one merry, sharpens the wit, bestows youth upon the aged and symbolizes sincerity.
Did you know that eating a whole plant of Chervil is supposed to get rid of hiccups?
I wonder if anybody uses it today?

Botanically it’s Anthriscus Cerefolium
Chervil is a member of the: Umbelliferae or Carrot family and its leaves look a bit like carrot tops.

Young green leaves, smell similar to Anise, and when picked before they lose their pungency can be preserved in vinegar.
Chervil is a warm herb. That means that it doesn’t overwhelm other spices and tastes.

Chilli on the other hand is a hot herb or spice if you prefer.
There are two main varieties of chervil, one plain and one curly.

WHEN TO SOW

Growing chervil, is quick because it will be ready to harvest in 8 weeks – Chervil is cold hardy, so you can use it during the winter into spring months.
Treat chervil much like parsley.
Like most herbs, chervil is a perennial in cooler climates, but in warmer climates, it’s more of an annual, occasionally biennial. (meaning in might regrow for you for 2 years.)
Chervil grows to about 40cm high and 25cm wide and  has a more delicate, nutty flavour than Parsley.
In some parts of Australia, the temperate and cold zones, you can have 2 sowings of Chervil a year.
Sow the winter chervil in late summer and the spring chervil from late winter onwards – the best results seem to be 2 days before a full moon – don’t ask me why, because I don’t know.
Choose a sunny spot for your winter chervil and a semi-shady spot for your summer chervil.
If you want to sow now, it will have to be in some sort of igloo or mini-greenhouse because the ideal temperature of germination is about 13⁰-18⁰C.
Chervil seeds need light to germinate so don’t bury them with soil or potting mix.
Germination is slow, just like Parsley taking usually occurs 2-3 weeks but can take even longer.
TIP  To speed up germination the night before sowing, pour boiling water over the seeds in a shallow saucer and leave them to soak overnight.
In really cold districts  protect your chervil in the winter with a poly tunnel and you’ll be able to cut herbs all year.
Another TipBest sow chervil in situ as seedlings don’t transplant well – they sometimes bolt when transplanted..
Sow seeds about 5mm deep and in rows 30cm apart and thin plants to 30cm apart.
Why is Chervil best in winter?
Because Chervil isn’t heat-tolerant, in warm and arid districts, you Chevril will probably bolt to seed in Summer because of the  heat.

Chervil is one of those herbs that doesn’t mind partial shade and the soil needs to be fertile and fairly moist.
Chervil will grow in any soil but dislikes being too wet although it does need water, it won’t like being in badly drained soil.
If you let your Chervil flower which it’ll do in Summer, on top of the light-green, lacy leaves, will appear umbrella-like clusters of white flowers in on tall stems up to 60cm tall.

I would imagine these small flowers attract beneficial insects just like parsley flowers do.
 Leaves smell faintly of aniseed and turn reddish-brown as the plant matures.
Chervil is good for all those balcony gardeners and it’ll grow indoors. Once established, chervil self-seeds, again like Parsley if you let if flower and set seed of course.

 

Remove the flowers from most of the plants before they open and keep watered.
The plants will self seed if one or two plants are allowed to flower.

Sow the seeds in monthly succession if you want a constant supply – it’s one of those herbs, that once you start using it, you find more and more uses for it. Just keep cutting it.
It’s used to make the famous chervil soup, delicious with crab, cream cheese, omelettes, in salads, béarnaise sauce, with all meats, fish and poultry – such a versatile culinary herb.
Why is It Good For You?
Chervil is rich in a number of different vitamins and minerals. It is an excellent source of Vitamins A and C, as well as calcium, iron, manganese, potassium and zinc.
Store in airtight packs and keep in a cool, dark place.
Do either buy a plant Chervil from a garden centre or sow seed.
AND THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY

DESIGN ELEMENTS

with landscape designer Louise McDaid

This is the third in the series of “why won’t it grow at my place.”
Do all plants have a long and healthy life and is it your fault when they keel over?
That’s been a question for most gardeners perhaps some of the time.
What can go wrong is not so much the plant’s health but it’s life span. Not all plants live forever and that includes trees and shrubs not just perennials.
The climatic conditions at your place might also be a factor in shortening the life span of some of your plants even though you’ve given it all that TLC-like watering, fertilizing, pruning at the right time.
Let’s find out what this is all about.



Philotheca

Sometimes the problem is you’ve planted something that’s incompatible with the plant that’s next to it.
There are a few basic rules of thumb when it comes to plants to avoid near one another.
First, check that your garden plants are all about the same size and have the same light requirements. When planting taller and shorter plants together, make sure that the shorter plants are spaced far enough away and orientated so the sun will shine on them during the day.
Many gardeners solve this problem by putting the shortest plants in their own row on the edge of the garden or planted as a border planting.
Plants that need a lot of water will cause those water haters nearby a great deal of stress so plant the water haters further away.
Plants that need low phosphorous to grow like some Australian natives-Banksias, Grevilleas, Boronia etc. These are best planted in their own bed or with exotics that don't need much if any fertilising.

Boronia ledifolia

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Edible bananas-Musa acuminata
GROW EDIBLE BANANAS IN YOUR BACKYARD

In the subtropics it takes between 2 and 4 months for bananas to ripen (depending on variety, weather and other conditions).

In the cooler climate of southern Victoria for example Melbourne, with the shorter daylight hours and overnight temperature drops it takes from 5 to 6 months or more (again depending on conditions).

Did you know that bananas can grow it regions other than the tropics? They are actually the world’s largest herb, a plant, that goes on producing year after year.

I’ve seen banana plants being coddled in the south of England at Great Dixter.(photo below). These plants are protected by a surrounding hedge, as well as a stack of hay which is held together by bamboo  poles.
 Bananas are a versatile plant in any landscape. Bananas can add a lush, tropical look to any area. Although everyone knows the fruit, few people have experience growing the plant.

While it is possible to grow banana plants in cool temperate zones and have them produce fruit, it is unlikely to mature before cold weather sets in.
They can be picked early and ripened by placing in a plastic bag with a couple ripening apples. However some say that because the fruit is not mature it lacks flavour and sweetness.
Banana plants in cool temperate districts tend to produce a bunch around December/January which would have them ripen May June (well into the cold weather).
Musa acuminata is one of the best for cold climates and others like Sugar banana  Musa  paradisiaca are a good all round variety.

Banana plants are fast growing, usually putting out one new leaf once a week.

Banana plants can either form clumps by suckering or they can remain solitary.

Banana leaves, pseudostem (trunk) and fruiting stem (raceme) grow from the underground rhizome (or pseudo bulb's) top surface and the roots grow from the lower surface of the rhizome.

From the time of planting it usually takes 12 months or so to produce the first bunch, after that the bunches appear every 8-10 months.

Because commercial banana plants cannot produce seeds, they are predominately propagated from their underground rhizomes called corms or tissue culture.

The fleshy stems sheathed with huge broad leaves can grow up to 10metres in as little as 1 year, depending on variety and growing environment. After approximately six months, when the banana plants leaf formation is completed and the plant has matured, a flowering stalk emerges from the top of the plant. This flowering stalk appears as a large bud and is called the bell.