Turmeric Spices, Growing Seeds and Citrus but admiring Daffodils

What’s On The Show Today?

How to grow this tropical looking plant because it’s good for you in the Good Earth, some great tips on germinating seeds in Vegetable Heroes; a native fruit with caviar like insides in plant of the Week and a flower that signifies “ new beginnings” in Talking Flowers.

THE GOOD EARTH

Growing Turmeric

Cucuma longa

Gardeners like to grow unusual herbs that are also useful.
But you won’t be planting out seeds to start this next plant because you need rhizomes.
Not only that, for this herb you won’t be using the leaves in cooking but the roots or rhizomes instead.

Turmeric plants

What am I talking about?
Let’s find out all about Turmeric in the podcast. I'm talking with Margaret Mossakowska from www.mosshouse.com.au

How To Grow

Turmeric Flowers

There are a couple of different types of Turmeric available in Australia.

One has bright orange flesh and the other is more yetlllow.

Sourcing it all depends on if you have " Crop Swap" or Farmers' Markets in your district.

Once you have a fresh rhizome or root, all you need to do is plant it. 

A large root will have several branches or fingers to it.
You can cut these apart and start more than one plant if you like.
The easiest way to get it to sprout is to just bury the root under 5cms of potting mix. If there are any knobs or buds on the root, turn it so they are facing upwards. 

Turmeric grows downwards and spreads sideways, so don't plant it in a narrow pot.

You can harvest the whole clump when the leaves have died , usually at the beginning of Winter of late Autumn depending on your district's climate.

If you have any questions about growing your own turmeric, then why not email us realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675

VEGETABLE HEROES

Growing from Seed

Growing from seed isn’t always easy and I know many a gardener from my days at Yates, that failed to germinate a whole bunch of different seeds. 

There's no need to be shocked if you seeds don't germinate.

It happens to the best of gardeners so don't despair.

Solutions to the problemThe answer to the seed raising question in a lot of cases was answered by saying that if seedlings get too wet or too dry, then they’re not going to germinate.
So, are there any sure fire techniques that could work for you for some of those tricky seeds? 

Keeping A Record

Some gardeners and horticulturalists keep a record of everything they sow.
Whether you are producing a few plants for your home flower and vegetable gardens or working at a larger-scale nursery, developing a propagation journal or notebook, is a good place to start if you’re having a hit and miss type of problem with your seeds.

• What you need to do is keep a record of
• when seeds are sown, 
• the germination date and 
• success rate, and 
• when seedlings are ready for transplanting each year. 

At the end of the year, evaluate the timing of when you put the seeds in, noting what went right and what went wrong. 

Next year you might then consider making adjustments so that you’re growing plants under optimum conditions. 

Also keep track of where you bought the seeds, as their quality and reliability might vary.
Having said that, seed companies sell thousands of packets of each variety of seed and these have been batch tested for germination rates at above 85%.
It’s pretty unlikely that a batch of seeds is unreliable without implying that several thousand other seeds won’t germinate either. 

The Next Thing is Where to Store Your Seeds.

• Store your seeds properly-not in a garden shed if it heats up during summer and is freezing cold in winter. 
• The cold won’t matter so much as the heat. 
• Seeds are a fragile commodity, and if not treated properly, their viability takes a dive. 
• Did you know that some seeds can survive for thousands of years under the proper conditions, while others will lose viability quickly, even when properly stored? 
• Parsnips is one that loses viability very quickly. 
• The best way to store your precious seeds is to keep seeds in a cool, dark location with low humidity, like a cool laundry that won’t fluctuate in temperate that much. 
• Some say put them in the fridge, but if you’re like me, you’d need a whole fridge just to keep the seeds in. 
• Store the seeds in a plastic container, and label the top with the expiry date of the seeds. 

Seed Germination Test

There is a test you can do for seed viability for many of your seed, although it’s not 100% bullet proof, and that is once you are ready to sow, you can soak them in water for a few hours.
The seeds that are still living will sink to the bottom, while the dead ones will float on the surface. This test generally works better for larger seeds as a general rule. 

It’s worth a try in any case.
The other method is to lay seeds on one half of a damp paper tower, and put them into a zip lock bag.

Keep an eye on the moisture level of the paper towel, opening it when it looks dry and misting with water from a spray bottle.

You seeds that are viable will germinate and these can be planted out into the garden, so nothing is wasted.

Sowing Seeds in Punnets
When sowing seeds in punnets, especially if you’re re-using them, give the punnets a good soak with a 10% solution containing bleach so that any pathogens that might kill of the seeds is killed.
This’ll take about 15 minutes.
You’re better off sowing plants that resent root disturbance when transplanted into small, individual containers like cell packs or plug trays.
Recycled plastic containers, like empty yogurt or margarine tubs, work well, too, as long as you've poked holes in the bottom for drainage.
It doesn’t matter what type of container you use as long as it’s clean and free of pathogens. 

How to Best Cover Your Seeds

Another big factor in seeds not germinating is covering them with too much or too little seed raising mix.

• If you’ve got an old kitchen sieve, use that to sprinkle the mix over the seeds after you’ve sown them into the punnets or vegetable garden. 
• Very fine seeds that need light to germinate should be barely covered if at all. 
• In this case, I tend to light sprinkle some soaked vermiculite over the seeds, so they won’t dry out but are weighed down by the mix. 
• Each seed must make good contact with the soil and the best way to do this isn’t with your fingers-the seeds might stick to them, but with a small piece of wood, or the bottom of a glass jar. 
• Water in your seeds either from the bottom up, or with a spray bottle so the seeds aren’t dislodged. 
• Then cover your seeds with a plastic bag, a cut off plastic drink bottle, or in a mini greenhouse. 
•  Don’t water again unless you that you need to rehydrate your seed container. 
• The best way to do this is, place the entire punnet, pot or whatever you’re using in a basin with about 5-7 cm of luke-warm water and allow the planting medium to wick moisture from the bottom. 
• If just the surface has dried, you can lift the plastic covering and spritz the surface with water from a spray bottle. 
• As soon as the seeds germinate, remove the plastic covering.. 
• Most seeds like temperatures of around 18 ° to 25°C to germinate. 

If your put your seeds near a hot heater or use, a heating pad designed for germinating seeds, you’ll get a much fast germination rate in the cooler months.
In this case be sure to check for moisture often, since the seed containers may dry out more quickly.
Keep in mind that most seeds won’t germinate without sunlight.
Once the seeds have germinated they’ll grow best if they have at least 8 hours of sunlight each day.
 For indoors, place seed trays in a sunny, north-facing window and give the tray or whatever a quarter turn each day to prevent the seedlings from overreaching toward the light and developing weak, elongated stems.


Once your seedlings have grown at least 4 leaves, they’ll need some nutrients fairly regularly to keep your seedlings growing strong.
When the embryo inside a seed is developing, it relies on food stored in the endosperm to fuel its growth.
s the shoot emerges from the soil and the true leaves develop, the initial nutrients supplied by the endosperm will be depleted.

Most seed-starting mixes contain a small amount of nutrients to help the initial seedling growth and not burn the developing roots.
But, once the true leaves emerge, it’s time to begin a half-strength liquid fertilizer regimen on a weekly basis and to get the most out of your seedlings, start using some kind of seaweed solution to get strong root growth. 

  THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO FOR TODAY

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Australian Native Citrus: Citrus australasica

Citrus Gems

The lemon tree is ubiquitous to most home gardens but are you aware that Australia has its own native citrus?
The fruit from Australia’s citrus is so unique though that top chefs are using it as a garnish in their cuisine.

Australian Native Citrus is still citrusy but not as we know it.

Let’s find out about this plant.

I'm talking with the plant panel :Karen Smith, editor of Hort Journal www.hortjournal.com.au and Jeremy Critchley, The Green Gallery wholesale nursery owner. www.thegreengallery.com.au

 What it looks like
The leaves are similar to Murraya Min a Min being much smaller and finer that the leaves of a regular citrus tree.
The inner fruit consist of vesicles that aren’t joined as in the segments of say a Mandarin, making them pop out like the finest of Beluga caviars.

The trees are thorny, as Karen says, they're not called nature's barbed wire for nothing.

Australian native citrus produce finger shaped fruit up to 12 cm long with a typically green-yellow skin and pulp. 

These citrus trees tolerate light frost; grows best in light shade or sunny spot.

Suits sub-tropical. Warm temperate, cool temperate and Mediterranean climates.

Prune: Lightly, in spring. Don't prune too hard when fruit is forming as you can accidentally cut off your upcoming crop.

TALKING FLOWERS

Daffodils of all kinds for the vase.

What is a Daffodil?

All Daffodils belong to the genus narcissus, which includes jonquils and paperwhites. 

Some gardeners call yellow narcissus, daffodils and the smaller, paler versions as jonquils, but they all belong to the genus narcissus and technically all carry the common name of daffodil. 

The genus name comes from the Greek god narcissus. 

According to legend, Narcissus was so enamored with his own reflection in the river that he drowned trying to capture his reflection.

The daffodils growing along stream banks in their native Mediterranean origin and all soon became associated with Narcissus and took on the Greek god's name.

I'm talking with Mercedes Sarmini of www.flowersbymercedes.com.au

Herbs by the Sea

SPICE IT UP

Did you know that the ancient Greeks made poultices from the leaves of oregano and used them to treat sores and aching muscles?

What’s more,  traditional Chinese doctors have used oregano for centuries to relieve fever, vomiting, jaundice and itchy skin.

To this day, in Europe, the herb is still used to improve digestion and soothe coughs.

So what else do you do with it other than grow it in the herb garden?
Listen to this….talking with herb expert Ian Hemphill from www.herbies.com.au


So in medieval kitchens they had dried herbs hanging up around the stove, but not for decoration, but to use in their cooking.

A most versatile herb it almost goes with anything.
Instead of garlic breath, spread some oregano, dried or fresh and make herb bread or herb butter instead using oregano.
Oregano of course goes with strong flavoured rich or fatty meats and carbohydrates,

 

VEGETABLE HEROES

This weeks Vegetable Hero is Sea Fennel or CRITHMUM maritimum.
In the Family Apiaceae-that’s the same family as carrots.
Crithmum: because this plant looks a bit like Barleycorn, and the Greek word for that is krithe.
Of course you would’ve guessed that maritimum means from or near the sea.
You may have come across this plant in restaurants and café’s where they often use it as a garnish.
You may even have seen in in your local garden centre by it’s other name of SAMPHIRE or Rock Samphire.

How did it get that name?
Supposedly a corruption of French St. Pieere, (St.Peter) the patron   saint of fishermen, also known as the rock.
 Why a fisherman saint? Because it likes to grow on sea-cliffs.

Should you ever travel to Germany, their name for sea-fennel is Meerfenchel,
But let’s not stop there because Sea Fennel also goes by the name of Herba di San Pietra (contracted to Sanpetra) its Italian name.

Sea Fennel is quite common round the coasts of Southern Europe and South and South-West England, Wales and Southern Ireland, but it is less common in the North and rare in Scotland.

In Australia, since I’ve started talking about sea fennel, I’m been seeing it more and more in the herb section of nurseries so although it can be a bit hard to find it’s not that rare.

Would you believe that sea fennel is a herb, and has been used in different ways for centuries, from the time of Greeks and Romans, as a food - raw, steamed, boiled or pickled, but it was also used as an medicament due to it's therapeutics and aromatic contents.
Even today it is widely used in modern cosmetics perfumery and medicine.
So what does it look like after all that?
Sea Fennel is a succulent, smooth or glabrous, much-branched herb, woody at the base.

To me it looks like the  stems of Sea Fennel are long and fleshy.
You could say it’s a decorative upright rather sparse looking succulent with blue green stems and leaves.
The stems are full of aromatic juice and when it flowers they look like umbels of tiny, yellowish-green blossoms. Much like other flowers in the carrot family.
Where it originates, it happily grows on rocks and shingles on rocky Mediterranean shores, on cliffs and on the sea-shore moistened by the salt spray.
Sea fennel is the last dry-land plant exposed to strong wind, salt, sea waves, draying sun... it survives extreme weather conditions.
Sea Fennel, or Rock Samphire is a perennial, it’s frost hardy and easy to grow.

The whole plant is aromatic and has a powerful scent.
Some say it has a strong smell of furniture polish, but I like it’s-sort of aniseed like.
Because of where it grows, the best way to grow it at home is on sandy well drained soil, or in a pot.
Grow it in full sun in a warm sheltered position.
If you manage to get one of these plants you can divide in up into more plants next spring or save the seed and grow plants that way.

How can you use this unusual herb here in Australia?
Traditionally in Cornwall, Rock Samphire (or Sea Asparagus) is served simply, with a squeeze of lemon and a knob of butter, lightly steamed.
It's also pretty good with some cracked black pepper and vinegar.
Rock Samphire is naturally salty, so doesn't need any salt!
You can also eat it raw, but it loses its slightly bitter taste after cooking, becoming softly aromatic and delicious.
Rock Samphire makes a great accompaniment or garnish for steamed fish scallops, oysters, and Mackerel. Well, it makes an interesting and appropriate partner for most seafood really! :) 

Where do you get it? The Royal Botanic gardens nursery have this plant-which is where I got mine from. You can also buy it online and I’ll put on link to that nursery on my website.
Why is it good for you?
Crithmum maritimum is a vibrant green edible plant which grows mainly on tidal marshes.
It has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. is a strongly aromatic, salty herb; it contains a volatile oil, pectin, is rich in vitamin C and minerals, has diuretic effects, cleanses toxins and improves digestion.
Sea Fennel as high levels of vitamin C, it’s a diuretic, cleanses toxins, improves digestion and helps weight loss-possibly because of the diuretic part.
I have a recipe for Sea Fennel that I’ll post on the web, or you can write in or email for a fact sheet.
You can use Pickled sea fennel in seasoning for salads, or as a cold relish to round meat or fish dish
Pickled Sea Fennel (Rock Samphire, Motar...)
Gather the young and green samphire beginning of March (in Australia) before it flowers. Break into 2 in. lengths, lay on a dish and sprinkle with dry salt. Leave for 24 hours. Drain, then cook gently until tender in enough vinegar to just cover it, but don't allow it to get soft. :plain vinegar is best for this as the samphire has its own spicy flavor. Seal down securely in hot jars
Hand pick sea Fennel before it flowers. Pick of the small leaves.
Wash them in sea water (fresh pipe water will do).
Cook it in mixture of water and vinegar (70:30) for 15 min until tender.
Leave it to cool and store it in jars filled with diluted vinegar (half water, half vinegar).

If you have any questions about growing sea fennel or any other vegetable, JUST EMAIL ME

DESIGN ELEMENTS

with Landscape Designer and Gardening Australia editor, Louise McDaid

GARDEN DESIGN WITH GREEN IN MIND

This new series came about when Louise and I were talking about the colour green in gardens, and that mostly gardeners overlooked how effective the green in your garden really is.
A one-colour strategy frees you to master the brushstrokes of form and texture. It also allows enough elbow room to for you to explore a single-color palette's potential in pale and deep shades, in fine leaf or large leaf, variegated or not.
The colour green doesn't fatigue the eye.
Let’s find out what this new series is all about.

Single-color gardens show as much boldness and flair as the most elaborately matched schemes.
These types of gardens have an endless varying palette, from true green, gray-green, and blue-green to purple-green and yellow-green. Each has a different impact.
It’ s only limited by your imagination.

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Citrus Gems

Did you know that all the citrus that most gardens grow in their gardens came from overseas and it all started with the first fleet?
Yes, they carried oranges and lemons, complete with all the bugs that affect citrus in Australia now.
Some of you might know from various gardening shows on TV, that Australia has always had it’s own unique citrus. But are these citrus up to the mark?

Australian citrus has smaller leaves and even though they are supposed to get the same bugs –orange stink bug and citrus leaf miner, I’ve yet to see it on my Australian citrus, where my two navel oranges have been plagued by both.

Citrus Gems are a group of adaptable, quirky trees, uniquely Australian and tolerant of a wide range of conditions. They are suited to both pot and garden cultivation. All Citrus Gems are grafted onto citrus rootstock. Which ensures plant health, vigour and increases the plants ability to produce abundant crops of fruit from an early age.
Citrus Gems respond well to pruning. Citrus Gems are extremely hardy and tolerant of frost and dry conditions.
There seems to be a citrus for every district in Australia, so why not give it a go?
For more information and where to buy
http://www.citrustogrow.com.au/citrus-range/citrus-gems/