Tropical Planting Without Crying Over Onions

Old Fashioned plants that suit wet tropics and possibly elsewhere starts off the show, in Design Elements; grow nature’s antibiotic in Vegetable Heroes plus an old-fashioned plant re-made in Plant of the Week, plus, sharpening your secateurs just in time for pruning in Tool Time.

DESIGN ELEMENTS

Old Fashioned Plants for the Wet Tropics

What is wet tropics? Is it your zone?
High humidity, but not too much over 35 degrees C perhaps? 

In Australia, we would say that Cairns, Babinda, 'cyclone alley' but not the Atherton tablelands, would fit the bill.

Darwin also, although, the Summer's are much hotter.
So what are the plants that would love that?
Let’s find out
I'm talking with Peter Nixon, garden designer and project manager of Paradisus garden design

Peter mentioned: 

Pisonia umbeliffera-bird lime tree.
Mussaenda philippica or M. erythrophylla-showy bracts-large shrub with pink or white bracts.
Warszewiczia coccinea-Pride of Trinidad-bract type red flower.2m sprawly shrub.
Plumeria spp-P obtusa, P.rubra, P. caracasana, P. pudica- but not hybrids like P acuminata who get rust in this zone.

Plumeria rubra photo M Cannon

Perennials, and sub-shrubs:

Pseuderanthemum laxiflorum-purple Prince, open habit, 1m, purple flowers all year.
Heliconia rostrata-red and yellow
Dichorisandra thyrsiflora-Blue ginger.

Persian Shield

Rhinacanthus nasutus,, commonly known as snake jasmine, white butterfly flowers.-Low groundcover
ForShade: try these

Crossandra spp. Firecracker Flower-apricot flower, 400m
Crossandra infundibuliformis- Firecracker flower, (another form)
Strobilanthes dyerianus-Persian shield
Xanthostemon youngii-red penda, brushlike

If you have any questions either for me or for Peter, drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville  

VEGETABLE HEROES

Onions.  Or allium cepa are from the Alliaceae family that also contains Garlic, Leeks Shallots and Chives.

Most of these have corms or bulbs or underground stems with long thin leaves and clusters of varying numbers of flowers. (Encyclopaedia Britannica)

Did you know that onions were grown as a crop and eaten since prehistoric times?,

Onions are even mentioned in first dynasty of ancient Egypt, circa 3200 BCE, and have appeared in tomb paintings, inscriptions and documents from that time on. Some paintings depict onions heaped onto a banquet table.

• Did you know that onions were was used to heal gun shot wounds and during World War 1, sphagnum moss was soaked in the juice as a wound dressing?

When to grow Onions?

In sub-tropical, cool temperate, warm temperate and arid climates you can plant them from April until August.

• Onions are sensitive to the day length for formation of flowers, so it’s important to select the right variety (early – mid-season – late).
• These varieties have different requirements in the length of daylight hours.
• Early varieties are short day length onions, mid-season varieties are medium day length onions, and late varieties are long day length onions.
• If planted out of season, onions may bolt to seed prematurely.
• For example in temperate climates mid-season onions are sown in winter, growing through spring and harvested in summer.
• These include Sweet Red and Brown Spanish Onions.
• They love sunny well drained beds, especially when the bulbs mature in summer.

So why Grow Onions?

Onions are a good companion plant.

Grown around the garden they repel pests.

They contain sulphur which is a strong disinfectant.

How to Grow Onions with Success.

Remember to always lime your soil well a week or two before planting onions.

They love a sweet or alkaline soil.

I don’t really know why alkaline soils are called sweet.

Don't forget avoid applying manures and blood and bone to the beds in which you're about to grow your onions because they prefer alkaline soil.

You can use spent mushroom compost instead of cow manure.

Sowing seeds with Success

• Onion seeds can be sown into seed raising mix into punnets.
• Or if you want to sow them directly into the garden, make it easy for yourself, mix the seed with some river sand-say one packet of seed to one cup of sand and sow it that way. Bit like sowing carrots!
• They can be transplanted to garden beds when the seedlings are around 8 cms tall.
• According to the “Vegetable Patch” website, there is a secret to planting onion seedlings.
• Instead of planting them sticking straight up, lay them down in a trench and move the soil back over their roots.
• In about 10 days they're standing up and growing along strongly.

Some tips to keep your onions growing strongly is

Hand weed around onions to avoid disturbing their roots and bulbs.

 Keep away from nitrogen based liquid fertilisers when your onions are maturing, because the fertiliser will go into their leaves instead of their bulb.

Regularly water your onions.

Lack of water can delay growth or split the bulb.

Because of their strong taste pests generally leave onions alone.

When Do you Pick Your Onions?

• Harvest onions (except spring onions) when the tops yellow and start drying.
• This usually takes 6 months, so if you plant seedlings today, yours will be ready  in December.
• Add a couple of weeks if your using seeds.
• Pull the whole plant from the ground and leave it to dry in the sun.
• Turn it every few days and avoid getting them wet (eg dew or rain).
• Hang them in a cool dry place for around 3 weeks to cure.
• If you store them in a cool dry place they should keep for a year.
• This explains why you can buy onions all year round.
• Eat the bulbs without a good dry skin first .

Why do we cry when we cut onions?

Onions contain complex sulphur compounds.

When you cut into an onion, two chemical reactions take place.

First, when a knife cuts through the cells of an onion, its enzymes release a strong odour.

Second, the onion releases allicin, a volatile sulphur gas that irritates the eyes and sends one rushing for a tissue.

Keeping Onions in the fridge can help with this problem.

To avoid a bitter flavour never, never buy onions that have begun to sprout greens from their stem portion.

This means they’re more than a year old.

If you see sprouts forming in your onions stored at home, simply snip them off and use the green part like chives, put the rest in the compost.

Why Are They Good For You?

Some health studies have shown raw onions to be effective in lowering overall cholesterol while raising HDLs, the good cholesterol.

Additionally, onions kill infectious bacteria, help to control blood sugar, aid in dissolving blood clots, and help to prevent cancer.

Perhaps we could do with eating some French Onion soup. Bon Appetit!

THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO FOR TODAY 

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Nandina domestica spp.

• Best known for it’s hardiness and loved by local councils who seem to plant it willy-nilly, this next plant has morphed into somewhat finer forms.
• Which is a good thing because it’s one
• of those old fashioned plants that gardeners would screw up their noses at.
• Perhaps we can change your mind?

Let’s find out.
I'm talking with Jeremy Critchley owner of www.thegreengallery.com.aufind out.

Jeremy mentioned Nandina filamentosa with superfine leaves. Use it as a filler plant.
N. citylights-dwarf-60cm also.
N Lemlim-new foliage is green instead of red.

TOOL TIME

Sharpen Those Secateurs

What’s the state of your gardening secateurs?
Do they open easily, are the blades sharp? You know they’re sharp if they make a clean cut through a plant’s stem without leaving a little tear behind.
Almost as if you only cut through part of the stem and then pulled off the remaining part.

Secateurs and garden snips photo M Cannon

If they’re not sharp, those cuts that you make on your plants will end up with bruising and tearing on the stems leading to dieback and fungal disease problems.
Let’s find out some tips about sharpening those precious garden tools.

I'm talking with Tony Mattson, General Manager of www.cutabovetools.com.au

• Clean your tools at the end of the day, even if it's just a wipe over with a rag or cloth.
• What you should be doing is give them a wash with warm water and two teaspoons of dish soap to scrub away sap and dirt from the  blades with a stiff brush. 
• This is to prevent that gunk build up on the blades which can harbour disease.
• Rub some vegetable oil onto the blades before putting them away to prevent the blades from rusting.

To quote a long time gardening presenter on Gippsland FM Community radio, 

"The jobs not done until the tools are put away."

 

Forget Brown Rot and Plant Swedes and NEW Sacred Bamboo

PLANT DOCTOR

 Brown Rot of Stone Fruit
This fungal disease can appear on a lot of plants including veggies and a lot of fruits, but today Plant Doctor is concentrating on stone fruit.
Before you tune out, you might discover that some fruit that you purchase might have this problem.
This segment explains why that piece of fruit that’s sitting innocently in your fruit bowl can suddenly go off.
So let’s find out more about this problem and what to do about it. 

That was Steve Falcioni, General Manager of www.ecoorganicgarden.com.au
The first signs can be the blossoms of your peach or nectarine trees turning brown and falling off prematurely.
You may not notice this happening in the first season, but if your trees have been infected. you will notice brown patches on your fruit that eventually cause the whole fruit to rot.
 You may not have any blossoms on your stone fruit trees, but there are still things that you can be doing as preventative measures for Brown Rot.
If this has happened then next season what you need to do is then to observe your blossoms when they appear to see if they’re dying prematurely.
Of course if you’ve had this problem before you need to spray as a precaution. Sprays with copper or sulphur in them work well as do eco Fungicide that contains potassium bi-carbonate.

Brown rot of stone fruit can leave mummified fruit stuck to the branches.

These are all barrier sprays and need to followed up regularly through the growing season.
If you have any questions about Brown rot of stone fruit, or have some information to share, drop us a line to or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675

VEGETABLE HEROES

Swedes are from Sweden

Why is it that when you go to the vegie section in supermarkets where I live anyway, there are only a handful of limp Parsnips and soft swedes? Does that mean people don’t use these vegetables anymore?
Aren’t the putting them in the roasting pan or using them to flavour soups?

Swedes are vegetables

All that aside, did you know that a Swiss botanist Gaspard Bauhin in 1620, found this vegetable growing wild in Swedes?
So yes, Swedes do come from Sweden, Swede the vegetable that is.
Another interesting fact about this vegetable is it doesn’t seem to have a long history, well unless you consider dating back to the1600’s not long, which it isn’t compared to some vegetables.
It may be a surprise to you that it’s been recorded as growing in Royal Garden not much later after it was discovered, in 1669.
Brassica napus variety (var.) napobrassica, sometimes referred to as Rutabaga, but never referred to as turnip.
Rutabaga is a corruption of the Scottish for red bag.
There’s another surprise. 
If any listeners know why the Scots called it a red bag, let me know.
Turnips and swedes are both members of the cabbage family and are closely related to each other - so close that it’s not surprising that their names are often confused. 

Turnip is not a Swede

For instance, swedes are sometimes called Swedish turnips or swede-turnips.

How do you tell the difference between Turnips and Swedes?

For one, turnips are usually smaller than Swedes-about the size of a golf ball, with creamy white, smooth skin.
Some turnips have a smooth, silky skin that’s coloured white, with a purple or reddish top.
The flesh is white and has a peppery taste

Swedes showing leaf scars

Swedes are a lot bigger, - roughly the size of a shoe.
Its rough skin is creamy white and partly purple, with a distinctive 'collar'-that shows the multiple leaf scars.
The Swede also has a hint of yellow-orange inside the actual vegetable.
Here’s a bit of trivia for you from a very recent article in the English
The Most Dangerous Vegetables
Telegraph reporting on a poll on home accidents in the kitchen.
A survey found two-thirds of injuries in the kitchen come from preparing fresh vegetables like squash and turnip that are too difficult to cut.
Almost a quarter said pumpkins were the toughest vegetable to skin and chop while a fifth said swedes were the most dangerous.
Two in five participants said they had injured themselves trying to imitate TV chefs when slicing vegetables, the research found.
So it came as no surprise that root foods had topped a poll of the most dangerous vegetables. Don’t let that deter you!
Another surprise is that Swede vegetable is a cross between a turnip and a cabbage. So how it came to be growing in the wild in Sweden is anybody's guess.
If you were a lover if Haggis you might already know that the Scottish call it "neeps" and serve it with haggis.
Swede us a full flavoured veggie with a savoury aftertaste.
Under-rated as a vegetable, its smooth and creamy texture is a welcome surprise in your cooking.
How and when to grow Swedes.
You might’ve guessed that the Swede is a winter vegetable.
You can sow Swedes from February until November it temperate and cool districts.
In arid zones, you have April until August, and in sub-tropical and tropical areas, only May to July
You might find some garden books suggesting not to sow Swedes at these times, but those books are probably written for northern hemisphere gardens.
Seed suppliers also recommend the dates I’ve given.
How to Grow Swedes
Turnips are easy to grow but swedes are easier.
Sow the seeds of Swedes into any prepared soil, they’ll even grow in heavy soil as long as the water drains away fairly quickly.
As with carrots, don’t put in fresh compost or manures when you sow Swede seeds, or you’ll get the usual forking or hairy swedes!
Swedes need good levels of trace elements, add a dusting of these either from a packet, or as a seaweed spray if your soil is poor or sandy.
Without enough trace elements, your Swedes might be tasteless, bitter and brown inside.
TIP: Swedes resent transplanting, just like carrots, parsnips and turnips.
Sow the seeds directly into the veggie bed.
Your Swedes will be ready in three to four months after planting.
But you can pick them at whatever size you like, small is good, as is larger. Doesn’t matter.
In cold areas, Swedes are best left in the ground and pulled out as you need them.
Otherwise, pick them and store them as you would potatoes.
Where do you get it?www.diggers.com.au
Cooking with Swedes
If you’re buying swedes from the fruit and veg grocer or supermarket, pick the smaller ones if you want the sweeter taste.
Cut them into chunks and steam them, but don’t overcook them because they tend to disintegrate.
How about making swede chips, why not?
Steam them and mash them or cut them into tiny pieces and put them in Cornish pasties.
Roast swedes are pretty tasty too.


Add caption

Why is it good for you?
1/2 cup cooked swede is a serve, and is a good source of vitamin C and fibre, folate and potassium. 
Swedes are quite filling but are low in kilojoules, with only 85kJ per 100g (2/3 cup).

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Sacred Bamboo
Nandina domestica varieties, not for plant snobs.

Nandina Lemlim image supplied by Plants Management Australia www.pma.com.au

Are you a plant snob or know someone who is a plant snob?
By that I mean refuses to plant anything that’s commonly sold.
Someone who can’t imagine planting out star jasmine or murraya because it’s “oh so yesterday” and why would you want that rather than some rare species of plant that no-one else has.
The trouble is it’s the way those common plants are used that turn us off rather than
Let’s find out more…I'm talking with Karen Smith, editor of Hort Journal www.hortjournal.com.au 




Nandina Blush image supplied www.ozbreed.com.au

The varieties we mentioned were Nandina were Obsession with new red growth, Nandina Blush staying red in Autumn and Winter.
In the winter months, Blush™ Nandina turns vivid red all over. It is 20% smaller than Nandina domestica ‘Nana’, Size: 60-70cm high x 60-70cm wide, a perfect height for fences, borders or hedging.



Image suppled Plants Management Australia www.pma.com.au

Nandina Lemon Lime a new evergreen,  with no red at all and looking more like a low bush bamboo plant. So compact that you never need to trim it.


If you have any questions about the new varieties of nandina, why not write in to If you have any questions about the new varieties of nandina, why not write in to If you have any questions about the new varieties of nandina, why not write in to If you have any questions about the new varieties of nandina, why not write in to



realworldgardener@gmail.com

Feature interview with Liza Harvey.

Click on the link to hear Plant music