Snip Snip Go The Roses

PLANT DOCTOR

Winter Rose Care

Who doesn’t love receiving a bunch of roses?
It certainly puts a smile on your face especially if they’re the fragrant type.
Perhaps we don’t receive them as much as we would like and if that’s the case, you need to grow some roses of your own.
Pruning can seem complicated if you read blogs on the web or books on roses and their care.
Steve certainly advocates the simple approach to winter rose care.If you’re not that familiar with looking after roses, this next segment has simplified some of the things you have to do to roses in winter in order to have plenty of flowers.


Talking with Steve Falcioni, general manager www.ecoorganicgarden.com.au
Let’s find out...listen to the podcast

The more you know about your rose the easier the task will be.
For example:
Is your rose once-flowering or remontant (repeat flowering)?
What is its normal growth habit - climber, tall, medium or short bush?
Do you get frosts in your area? This is very important for the timing of pruning.
Of course the later you leave the pruning, the easier it’ll be to find a bud as they begin to swell.
The first thing to do of course is to prune of dead and diseased wood.

Pruning cuts are always 1-2 cm above these buds.

Just a few major steps first for beginners.
Prune two-thirds of the bush if it's a vigorous hybrid tea, (most commonly grown) otherwise if it's weaker growing than just half to a third.
Floribundas or shrub roses aren't pruned as heavily, but the same principle applies.
Climbers are different, don't prune those long whippy stems but tie them to a support and prune the stems that come off this main branch to about 2-3 buds.

If you have any questions about winter rose care or roses in general, why not email realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

VEGETABLE HEROES

BOTANICAL NAME: Turnips or Brassica rapa

It’s funny that some vegetables have received a bad rap through no real reason other than not looking all that appealing.
One thinks of Turnips as some bland vegetable that’s used to flavour soups and stews.
But you wouldn’t eat it as a stand alone veggie would you?
Swedes, Parsnips maybe, but not the regular or even mini turnip.
I can’t say exactly why that is because I’ve been enjoying eating mini turnips for the last few weeks. Delicious!
Perhaps it’s the name-Turnip, just like Kohlrabi, the name and sight of the actual thing isn’t that appealing until you actually taste it.
Then you’ll be thinking, why didn’t I try this before because it tastes so good?
Did you know that the Romans used to throw turnips at unpopular people?
Maybe that’s why turnips got such a bad reputation?
But back the UK in the early 1700’s a bloke called Charles Townsend made turnips popular in England.
He did this by discovering that animals could be fed and fattened by eating turnips because they grew in cold and damp climates.
That meant that farmers were able to keep their livestock instead of having to kill them all for winter because there was nothing to feed them on.
You’ll be glad to know that the large woody turnips of old have mainly been replaced with smaller mainly white varieties that are delicious grated raw into a salad or as a side dish, leaving the swedes to take over in the stew department!
Why are Turnips Good to Grow Again?
Turnips are a very versatile vegetable - they can be harvested when mature or when they’re still quite small, cooked or eaten raw and the young tops can be used like spring greens.
Not only that, they’re quick to mature and easy to grow.

What does the Turnip look like?
Just in case you’re mixing up turnips and Swedes and Parsnips, the turnip is round, sits in the ground with just the top exposed to the light as it grows, and is actually the swelling at the base of the stem of the plant.
The Turnips that I’m going to talk about have mainly a white flesh and skin with a rosette of green feathery leaves that can also be eaten.
How do they grow?
Turnips can grow in full sun and partial shade, but like a well-drained soil.
Whatever you do when you plant turnips, don’t let them dry out.
When to plant your turnips?
Well I’m afraid it’s a bit of a mixed bag around Australia, so here goes.
From September until May in temperate districts and also cool temperate districts.
From August until May in sub-tropical areas.
For arid areas, you’ll have to wait until February then you have until August and Tropical areas, have even less of a chance, only between April and June.
Before you sow your turnip seeds, give the veggie bed some chook poo-about a handful per square metre.
Sow the turnip seeds no more than 1 cm deep.
It’ll be a bit tricky to get the right distance apart so keep thinning them out until they’re about 15cm apart.
If you thin them before 8 weeks, both the root and leaves are good to eat at this stage.
The leafy tops of these early pickings are great in salads.
Even though you’re getting an early start on your turnips, if you have some unseasonal warm weather, look after them by not letting them dry out, otherwise they’ll be small and woody.
Mulching with sugar cane, pea straw or something like that will help with keeping the soil moist.
Turnips take about 2-3 months to grow, so add a handful of chicken manure every 4 weeks.
You can pull them out when they’re the size of a golf ball when they’re at their sweetest, or wait until they’re the size of a tennis ball.
There are quite a few new varieties out there so why not try
Turnip White Mini-Tender round white roots, stores well. Crisp, beautiful well shaped rounds, ideal for the turnip lover. Harvest in only 7 weeks.
Turnip ‘Snowball’ is a very popular first-class, globe variety with solid white flesh and a juicy, sweet, mild flavour. Snowball’s an heirloom turnip that was introduced before 1885.
Snowball is best harvested when no larger than a tennis ball and can also be enjoyed when much smaller. Snowball takes between 5-8 weeks to be ready.
Turnip 'Golden Globe'  Also known locally as 'Butter Turnips' locally. Were introduced before 1888, this a heritage turnip with a beautiful golden skin, amber yellow flesh and delicate flavour. Stores well.
Why are the good for you?
Turnip roots are high in dietary fibre, vitamin C and B6, folate, calcium, potassium, and copper.
The greens are an excellent source of vitamins A and C, as well as a good source of calcium, iron, and riboflavin
AND THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

DESIGN ELEMENTS

 Talking with Landscape Designer Glenice Buck. www.glenicebuckdesigns.com.au
 
Over the last few weeks a series about designing a garden on a rural property a couple of hours south of Sydney has been the topic.
We talked about where to locate the garden, should it be where the bones of the old garden was, should it be somewhere else but not where farm machinery needed to trek through it?
Then was soil needing to be improved? Of course it was.
Now comes the most exciting part of the process.
What plants what materials are going in, not to mention how many?
Let’s find out ….
PLAY: Re-working  A Garden part 4_5^th August_2015

photo Glenice Buck

Some of the plantings are outlined below.
Shade was needed for the back of the house from the western sun but at the same time the trees couldn't be too large so that they would block the views.

Glenice chose Olive trees, alternating these with Crepe Myrtles, underplanted with Buxus and Santolina.
Lower down Glenice used ornamental grasses, Agastache, Sedums, groundcover Geraniums, Salvias and Chrysanthemums.

The back section of the garden included an avenue of Manchurian Pear trees.
If you want to hear that segment again, go to the website and click the podcast.

Not everything is transcribed from the segment, so if you’re looking for something in particular, email or write to me and I can give you more details. realworldgardener@gmail.com

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Talking with Karen Smith from www.hortjournal and Jeremy Critchley www.thegreengallery.com.au
Australia has a diverse range of plants that many wouldn’t recognise as being native other than the usual suspects of Eucalypts, Grevilleas, Bottlebrushes and Banksias.

In steps a climbing vine that is so lush you’d think it came from the rainforests of Madagascar or Sumatra.
Pandorea jasminoides or Bower of Beauty or Bower Vine.
But it turns out to be truly a native plant with dark green glossy leaves and lightly scented flowers that measure around 5cm across.
 What is this plant? Let’s find out …


Even though Bower vine comes from tropical and sub-tropical rainforests, it’ll grow well in southern states if you give it plenty of moisture and protect it from frosts when it’s a young plant.
The newer varieties are Jazzy Bellz-white with deep maroon throats, Ritzy Bellz-pure white petals and throat, Sassy Bellz-medium pink with crimson throat and Flirty Bellz-soft pink with ruffled edges and a dark pink throat.
Same as the original but the distance between the internodes is shorter so appears even more lush, if that was possible.
Large white trumpet flowers with golden centres and is often seen growing all over Australia.
It can be easily trained over fences and trellises forming a dense screen.
I also have a white one with a yellow “throat.”
So, what’s the difference.
Well the original climb to 3 metres high and 5 metres wide. That’s big. I have it climbing over a large arch but it’s not that wide so a trim during the growing season with hedge clippers is need a couple of times.


Jazzy Bellz

Why grow one at all? Bird attracting- Suitable for hedge- - Fast growing
So attractive, I had a birds nest in it for the last two years.
Flowers mainly in Spring and Summer, then you get the long seed pods filled with winged seeds that germinate easily given the right conditions.
I’ve given away quite a few plants that have been grown from seed.
Well there are more varieties out now under the hybrid name “Auzzie Bellz”…with an unusual spelling.
The varieties Jazzyy Bells masses of clean white flowers with ruffled edges and a deep crimson and Sassy Bellz-a darker pink with a crimson throat.
Both only grow to 40 cm
That makes them suitable for pots being more compact, growing to only 40 cm
Use on trellis and pots or on a frame.
There’s also two more varieties that grow as big as the original Pandorea jasminoides but with a deep red flower called Ruby Bellz and a yellow flower with a whi

Pink Pixies and Feathery Leaves

SPICE IT UP

Star Anise, Aniseed and Fennel all have anethole in them which imparts that Aniseed flavour.

The dried seed that comes from the ferny Fennel herb, has seeds look a lot like cumin seeds, only greener, with an lighter aniseed flavour and a warm, sweet aroma.


Fennel seeds are also used in spice mixes such as Chinese five spice and the Indian Panch Phora.
Just a reminder, Phanch Phora consists of Fennel, Cumin, Nigella, Fenugreek and Brown Mustard seeds.
But aside from Asian cooking, what else can you do with this spice and can you grow it at home?Let’s find out. Click on the player to listen to the podcast.Talking with herb expert Ian Hemphill www.herbeis.com.au

You can use the whole Fennel bulb in cooking. The bulb has a light delicate flavour that can be used in dishes such as lasagne.
The fronds of the Fennel bulb can be used in salads and with fish.

The Phanch Phora seed blend is fried up at the beginning of a curry and is also good with parboiled potatoes and cabbage.

To use fennel seed in your cooking you'll get more flavour out of the seeds by either grinding them or dry frying them.

If you don’t have a pestle and mortar, put seeds you want crushed into a sealed bag and bash with a rolling pin or whizz them up in a small, clean coffee grinder.

To dry fry, heat up a pan, tip in the seeds and, over a medium heat, brown for a couple of minutes, tossing them around the pan frequently

If you have any questions about using fennel seeds in cooking, why not email


realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

VEGETABLE HEROES (OR A HERB)

Dill
Botanically Dill is Anethum graveolens and it’s in the Apiaceae or carrot family which includes such herbs as parsley, coriander, fennel, and Queen Anne’s lace.
The latin name Anethum means to grow upwards and the graveolens part means “emitting a heavy odour or strong smelling:
Dill is a native of the Mediterranean region and Southern Russia.

It grows wild among the corn in Spain and Portugal and on the coast of Italy, but not so much in northern Europe.
Did you know that in the Middle Ages, Dill was one of the herbs used by magicians in their spells and charms against witchcraft?
Fennel and Dill are sometimes confused as being one and the same plant.
The difference with Dill, is that the stems of Dill are hollow and usually there’s only one stem unlike the multi-stemmed Fennel.
Dill is a hardy annual herb with a flower that looks a bit like an umbrella.
The leaves have a delicate appearance and are often described as lacy, feathery, or needle-like.
The seeds are oval and winged but pungent and slightly bitter to taste, some say, similar to Caraway seeds.
Dill produces a single taproot that can reach deeply into the ground in ideal conditions.
Sowing and Growing dill
Dill can be grown in any well-drained soil in an open, sunny position, though it prefers districts with a warm, dry summer.
As per usual, incorporate plenty of organic matter into the soil to help it retain moisture during the dry months.

Dill flowers attract beneficial insects

Sow seeds at monthly intervals in spring and summer for a constant supply throughout the summer and into autumn.
Dill will often self-sow, and the vivid yellow flower heads are excellent for attracting pollinating insects to the garden.
Sow in shallow drills, about 5 mm deep, leaving 25 cm between rows.
For a harvest of seeds, thin the first sowing to leave 25 cm between plants. Use the thinnings as a source of tender young leaves in the kitchen. Subsequent sowings, for a harvest of leaves, need to be thinned to only 10 cm apart.
Water well during dry periods, and keep well mulched with organic matter to conserve moisture.
The plants grow to 1m tall and so may need staking or protection from strong winds.
Pests and diseases-Dill is usually trouble-free. It can actually be a good companion plant to grow between rows of carrots as its strong aroma deters carrot fly.
Harvesting and storing
The leaves will be ready for picking about eight weeks after sowing and there are several ways to use the leaves.
Using them fresh, just pick the leaves as needed.
For freezing and drying, pick the leaves just before plants start flowering.
Can be a bit tricky, but you’ll see the flower heads about to form if you keep on eye on your dill.
If you’re a bit of a seed saver, then pick the flower heads a few weeks after they first appear and put them in a paper bag.
Leave this bag in a dry place until the seeds ripen and fall.
Or instead you can pick the seeding heads once they have turned brown. Then spread the seeds on a tray in a warm, dry place.
Store the dried seeds in airtight containers.
Dill seeds are viable for about 3 years if picked straight from the plant and if stored correctly.
Using in cooking 
Dill leaves are used to flavour soups sauces, fish or mixed with pickled cucumbers.

Dill pickles

You can make Dill vinegar by soaking the seeds in vinegar for a few days before using.
The French use Dill seeds for flavouring cakes and pastries as well as flavouring sauces. Why not give that a try?
Why is it good for you?
Fresh Dill is a good source of Vitamin A and C and has carminative (good for hiccups) and digestive and sedative properties.
You can get some of these health benefits by drinking dill tea made from either the seeds or the leaves.
Take 2 teaspoons of seed per cup of boiling water and steep for 10 minutes.
AND THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

DESIGN ELEMENTS

The property with the bank planted. Photo Glenice Buck

Talking with Glenice Buck, Landscape Designer.  http://glenicebuckdesigns.com.au/
Over the last two weeks, a new series about re-working a garden on a farm property.
Landscape designer Glenice has mulled over how the garden should be laid out, what aspect will work to maintain the vast view, and whether plants should be the major plants or the hard-scaping. Plants won out of course.
The scenario is this: the house had been located on a level area almost centred to the entire garden, but had been angled to take advantage of the view.
There is a sloping bank behind the house heading up hill and a sloping bank heading down the hill.
Before deciding on whether to terrace the garden or not, the decision was made to keep the existing mature trees.
But where to next?
Let’s find out some more in part 3….
Listen to the podcast to hear the entire segment.
A lot of decisions which took at least 6 months of mulling over before deciding on the plan of action.
Gardens are not meant to be hurried. Not like on Garden Renovation TV shows.

The Set Out photo Glenice Buck

To begin with, if you’re re-working or starting a garden, bring in as much soil and compost as you possibly can work with to give your plants a good start.

Don’t be tempted to buy just one of this or that.
The designer’s rule of thumb is buy in odd numbers bigger than 1.

So if you’re on a budget ,then at least three of everything.



Glenice planted out 250 each of Lavender, Salvia and Rosemary!
They were planted out in curves that would all merge together to form a mass planting of silver foliaged plants with purple flowers.

The bank 6 months later. Photo Glenice Buck

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Grevilleas are well known for attracting birdlife to our gardens and the newer ones have beautiful show flowers that are full of nectar.
Larger flowered species and hybrids such as Grevillea banksii, 'Moonlight', 'Robyn Gordon' and 'Peaches and Cream' are planted in most people’s gardens and are still  in great demand.
But there are small flowering newer hybrids that are covered in small flowers that are just right for the smaller birds in our neighbourhood.
 Which Grevillea is it?
Let’s find out, talking with nursery owner Jeremy Critchley www.thegreengallery.com.au and Karen Smith editor www.hortjournal.com.au

Listen to the podcast.

Grevillea Pink Pixie

Let's look at some winter flowering grevilleas for your garden and what conditions Grevilleas need to thrive.
Grevilleas prefer a sandy loam or a sandy soil because they like air in the soil, so a light sandy soil is preferable,but you could easily just plant them on a bit of mound mixed with good compost and some light potting mix in it so they  can get established first..

Once established they’ll tolerate dry periods but will want a deep soaking

Grevilleas require low phosphorus, slow release fertilizer so something with a Phosphorus number of less than 1.

Grevillea Pink Pixie

Featured Select Cultivar

  Grevillea  rosmarinifolia'Pink Pixie' is a great small sprawling shrub if you are after some winter and spring colour. Growing to  over a metre tall with narrow linear leaves and dense clusters of pink flowers it’s also dry tolerant and frost tolerant.
Winter spring flowering, hardy, low maintenance & frost tolerant
Some tried and true hybrids:

Grevillea Sandra Gordon

Grevillea "Misty Pink" is one of a number of large, free-flowering hybrids that are loosely termed "Queensland" hybrids because all have at least one species native to Queensland in their parentage. Most of these plants are characterised by a tall habit, ferny leaves and large racemes of colourful flowers which appear over a long period. Other popular cultivars in this group include G."Honey Gem" (orange), G."Sandra Gordon" (yellow), G."Moonlight" (cream) and G."Sylvia" (bright pink).

Aloe Aloe I See Dutchmans' Britches

PLANT DOCTOR

Why do plants' leaves turn various shades of yellow?
Yellowing leaves on your plant can be confusing, frustrating and even annoying if you don’t know what the cause is.

You’re plant could be in a container or in the ground, and during the colder months, those yellow leaves seem to become more prominent.
One of the reasons your plant's leaves may be turning yellow is because all leaves have a limited life-span, and just before they drop, the nutrients are pulled out of the leaf turning it yellow.

But what about other problems?
Let’s find out we can do about yellowing leaves.
Talking with Steve Falcioni, General Manager www.ecoorganicgarden.com.au

If the new leaves are paler but the old leaves are still a bright green, it's generally a sign of nutrient deficiency.
If the veins are distinctly green and the space between the veins is yellow, then it's probably iron chlorosis or iron deficiency.

Did you know that iron deficiency is pretty common in acid loving plants such as roses, fruit trees, camellias and even vegetables.
In this case the young leaves are yellow and the veins are green.
Magnesium deficiency on the other hand is more common in citrus as well as camellias and vegetables. Again acid loving plants.
It can be confusing because there’s a third deficiency that looks like a worst cause iron deficiency caused by not enough zinc and manganese
However, there are a range of products you can buy to fix these deficiencies.
If you have any questions about yellowing leaves and are not sure what the problem is, why not email realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

 VEGETABLE HEROES Aloe vera

The botanical name of Aloe vera is Aloe barbadensis Miller.

Aloe vera

It belongs to the Asphodelaceae family which has a subgroup (Liliaceae) whose members are also the lily plants as well as onions and garlic.
Aloe vera’s use can be traced back 6,000 years to early Egypt, where the plant was depicted on stone carvings.
Known as the “plant of immortality,” aloe was presented as a burial gift to deceased pharaohs.
The name Aloe vera derives from the Arabic word “Alloeh” meaning “shining bitter substance,” while “vera” in Latin means “true.”
Did you know that the word Aloe in Sanskrit means Goddess?
Because of aloe’s well-known healing properties for the skin, aloe is one of the primary compounds used in the cosmetic industry.
There are even Aloe vera drinks that you can buy, or you can use the juice straight from the plant.
What's So Good About Aloe vera?
Aloe leaves contain a clear gel that is often used as a topical ointment.
The yellow sap that oozes from the base of the leaf when it is cut is called bitter aloes.
This bitter sap when dried  is called latex.
This bitter sap contains anthraquinones, used quite a lot in medicines that act as a strong laxative.
Be warned though, don’t feel you can make your own oral medicines from Aloe and I’m not recommending that you drink the gel straight from the leaf either.
The reason is because not only is aloe vera juice pungent to taste, but there is no scientific evidence that drinking the juice does anything.
On the other hand, Aloe plants improve air quality, and when grown in pots inside the house, help remove toxins from the atmosphere.
So what is Aloe vera?
Aloe vera isn’t a cactus but a low growing spreading, xerophytic, succulent.
It grows mainly in the dry regions of Africa, the Arabian peninsula and nearby islands such as the Canary Islands and Madagascar.

Aloe barbadensis "Miller" 

Not to be confused with other ornamental Aloes, Aloe vera has triangular light green fleshy leaves with serrated edges, but also with elongated pale creamy white spots on the leaves.
The Aloe plant is grown in warm tropical areas and because the leaves consist of 95% water, they’re extremely frost tender.
However the root can survive freezing air temperatures, so long as the ground is not frozen and the root destroyed.
On the other hand, Aloe vera doesn’t grow all that big and can be easily moved indoors in colder climates if outside temperatures are less than 5°C.
Place it near a sunny windowsill and it will survive for a few weeks or a couple of months if it needs to.
On the upside, for those gardeners living in warm climates, Aloe vera can cope with temperatures in the high 30’s and can even withstand severe drought.
Don’t water during the winter months if your plant is able to grow outdoors because it’s practically dormant.
Aloe vera tolerates either full or partial sun for at least 8 – 10 hours a day, but will require a little more frequent watering in full sun.
If you’re area receives a lot of rain, you may find that the plant turns to mush so move it under cover.
During the summer months, the soil should be completely soaked, but then be allowed to dry again before re-watering.
If you’re growing your Aloe vera in a pot, because Aloes have a shallow, spreading root system, when it‘s  time to repot choose a wide container, rather than a deep one.
Always use planters or containers with a drainage hole, or put a 3-4 cm layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot so it receives sufficient drainage.
Use a good commercial potting mix with extra perlite, charcoal, or coarse sand added.
Or you could use a packaged 'cacti mix' soil.
Fertilising is only necessary once a year in spring but use only half strength. Aloe plants have relatively short roots and heavy leaves, so it’s best to move your plant to a heavier pot when they become top-heavy and tip over.
 If Aloe vera runs out of space for its roots to grow, it may start to produce "pups" that can be moved to their own pot .

Growing New Plants
New Aloe Vera plants are grown by removing these offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants, when they are about 5 - 7cm tall (or larger). They can also be grown from seed.


Aloe Vera pups or offsets

Has your Aloe vera ever flowered?
Growing Indoors
Keeping an Aloe vera plant at home is one of the easiest ways to get the freshest and most concentrated gel.
Plant Problems Solved
If the leaves start getting burnt on hot days, you ‘ll definitely need to move your plant to a location with light shade.
If the leaves are growing flat and low, that means the need more sunlight. Aloe vera leaves should grow upward or outward at an angle, toward the sunlight.  
Growing low to the ground or growing flat outward,  is an indication that the plant is probably not receiving enough sun.
Move it to a sunnier area.
If it’s indoors, consider keeping it outdoors during daylight hours.
If the leaves turn yellow or fall apart, stop watering.
Yellowed or "melting" leaves are suffering due to excess water.
Stop watering altogether for the next week (or two weeks during the dormant season), and water less often after that.
You can remove the discoloured leaves from the plant without doing any damage.
Tip:Remember, water it only when the soil has become dry.

Using the Leaf
Using aloe vera gel, that’s the inner portion of the leaf, topically is OK straight from the leaf.

 TIP: To use the gel, break off a leaf and cut it lengthwise to expose the inner layer.

Scoop the gel out and apply generously to the area needing treatment.

Discard whatever gel is not used immediately, as it will degenerate quickly.

Why is it good for you?
Aloe Vera contains many vitamins including A, C, E, folic acid, choline, B1, B2, B3 (niacin), B6. Aloe Vera is also one of the few plants that contains vitamin B12.
Soothes and heals sunburns because it contains cooling properties similar to menthol.
Takes the sting or itch out of insect bites.
Use it on those joints that have osteoarthritis.
Aloe gel has not been shown to prevent burns from radiation therapy.
AND THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

DESIGN ELEMENTS

talking with Landscape Designer Glenice Buck http://glenicebuckdesigns.com.au/
Last week a new series about re-working a garden on a farm property.
Today, Glenice works out where to put the fences to mark the garden.


Peppercorn Tree Drive-way photo Glenice Buck

It’s always interesting finding out what it’s like to be on someone’s personal journey in starting a garden on a location that used to be a farm paddock?
Finding out what challenges they faced. Was the soil be any good? Did they leave the existing trees? Was there a weed problem?
As the property is a working farm, Glenice said the she knew that for any plants to be able to grow, they needed to fence off the garden area so that the sheep and cattle wouldn't eat the plants.
The existing mature trees are about 100 years old and need to be considered as well.
Do they make up the garden?
Let’s find out some more in part 2….

You would think that you should just get in there and start planting things without worrying too much about the soil and stuff.
Not so. If you don’t get the soil right, the aspect right and the drainage right, your putting yourself onto a patch of unhappy gardening. You also have to consider the climate to know what plants will survive.

Truck arriving with first load of plants photo Glenice Buck

The climate in the area has a temperature range of -4 C to mid 40's C
They also experience heavy frosts in winter and heat-waves in summer.
Average rainfall is 24 inches per year.
The weeds included Marshmallow weed, that had to be eradicated before the first truck of plants arrived.

PLANT OF THE WEEK

with Jeremy Critchley  owner of www.thegreengallery.com.au and Karen Smith, editor www.hortjournal.com.au

Ever heard of a Twinspur? Yes it’s a plant with heart shaped leaves and flowers not unlike a Snapdragon because Snapdragons are its cousin.













Native of South Africa, these plants are perennial in warm and temperate climates and possibly even survive longer than annuals in cooler climates.
Newer varieties have names like Apple Blossom, Little Charmer, Apricot and Snow.
 What is this plant? Let’s find out …

Diascias have been around for many years and in the past have been known as Dutchman's Britches!
Why Dutchman's Britches?
Because the lower part of the flowers looks like those blowsy pants that Dutchmen used to wear in the 19th century.
Whether you want to call them Twinspurs or Dutchman's Britches, these plants are fast growing garden plants in most well-draining garden soils where the beds have been well prepared with some compost incorporated in the bed before planting.
Use an organic fertiliser like Blood and Bone pelleted manures.
Also fortnightly applications of a weak solution of a balanced liquid fertilizer will help them along.
When flowering seems to be fading the plants can be pruned to rejuvenate them and get a second flush of flowers.
Tip: Plants in pots seem to last for years and years. My friend Sabrina says she had one survive for at least 10 years! Now that's value.

Seeds Soils and Daisies in a Row

THE GOOD EARTH

An incredible diversity of organisms make up the soil food web.

They range in size from the tiniest one-celled bacteria, algae, fungi, and protozoa, to the more complex nematodes and micro-arthropods, to the visible earthworms, insects, small vertebrates, and plants.
These organisms not only benefit our soil but the plants that grow in them.
So how do we feed those organisms or attract them to the soil in our garden?

I'm talking with Margaret Mossakowska, President of Permaculture North and www.mosshouse.com.au
Let’s find out some more…


You probably have never thought about what soil organisms are doing in your garden or even wondered why you garden soil should even have them?
Did you know that by-products from your plants’ growing roots and plant residue feed soil organisms?
That’s good because in turn, soil organisms support plant health as they decompose organic matter, cycle nutrients, enhance soil structure, and control the populations of soil organisms including crop pests.
You can make a weed tea which when poured over your garden will get those micro-organisms working for you.
Weed Tea recipe.
One bucket with lid: Big bunch of garden weeds to about half the bucket: Cover with water.
Stir daily.

Your mixture will become frothy and smelly-that's fermentation.
When the smell has dissipated, your weed tea is ready.
Strain off the weed seeds, and dilute in the ratio 1 part weed tea to 10 parts water.
Most watering cans are 9 litres so your weed tea will be 90 ml or if you like, just a bit less than a litre.
If you have any questions about food for your soil, why not email realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

VEGETABLE HEROES

Shelf life of packet seeds.

We gardeners are guilty of buying too many seeds and realise, we just don’t have enough space to grow everything we would like to from seed.
Marketing gurus say that impulse buying is one big factor in seed sales.
That’s why they make the packets so attractive with those lovely photos on the front of the packet to entice your to buy them.
But what about the mail order companies? No photos there, but we still go crazy buying up too many because the seed catalogues are so alluring.

Why? Because they’ve that alluring promise that you’re buying something no mainstream gardener will have.
What to do with all those seed packets?
Shall you throw them into the compost or give them a go?
Now’s a good time to get out your seeds and take a look at the dates on the back usually.
You’ve probably got seeds lurking in a drawer, or maybe you’re more organised and they’re in a storage box.
Storing Your Seeds
Firstly let’s deal with how you’re storing your seeds.
If you’re keeping them in the garden shed that gets quite hot in summer, then the shelf life of your seeds is going to drop right down and possibly kill of your seeds.
Never store your seeds in a humid warm or sunny spot.
Seeds need to be kept cool and dry, ideally the temperature should be around  5°C and 10°C.
Keeping them in a tightly sealed jar in the fridge is good but who’se going to have enough room in the fridge for all those seeds?
A dark place somewhere in the garage or laundry that stays cool in summer is the best place.
When properly stored in a cool, dry place, seed’s shelf life can be extended. -

If you want to be really sure that the seeds you’ve got will germinate and you’ve got quite a few to burn, why not do a simple germination test?
Germination test: Take around 10 of your seeds, and place them in a row on top of a damp paper towel.
Fold over the paper towel and place in a zip-lock plastic bag and seal it; this helps to keep the towel moist and protected.
Then put in a warm location, like a high shelf or on top of the fridge  but make sure the spot you’ve picked is away from exposure to direct sunlight.
This can overheat your seeds.
Next, check the seeds often—around once a day—to see if they’ve  begun to germinate and  to check the moisture of the paper towel.
But don’t keep opening it everyday otherwise your experiment will go mouldy in no time.
Only open the zip lock bag if it needs more water, and carefully mist the towel so it’s only just damp, but not soggy.
Don’t apply too much water. 

Germination after 7 days.

I’ve recently heard that adding a drop of tea to the water helps with the germination rate.

TIP: Your seeds should begin to germinate in several days up to a couple of weeks, depending on the seed-type. A good rule of thumb is to wait roughly 10 days;




So how long do our veggie seeds last?

We know that the packet comes printed with the expiry date of seeds.
But we want to know can they last longer?
In Australia, seed companies are generally required by law to germination test seeds before they sell them.

The longest lasting seeds that I’ve germinated well past their expiry date, let’s say 3-4 years past, without any problem, are Basil, Kohlrabi, Broccoli and Rocket.
But let’s talk in families of plants such as in the Brassicaceae family.

Longest lasting seeds:
The long lasting seeds here are Beetroot, Silverbeet, Swish chard, Radish, Turnip, Cauliflower, Cabbage and Kale and Broccoli.
Next are those from the Solanaceae family, including tomato and eggplant.
Lastly, the Cucurbitaceae or Melon family.
Long lasting seeds in this family include cucumber, squash and watermelon.
Moderately lasting seeds 3 - 5 years.
Then there’s those seeds that aren’t so long lived but usually have a shelf life of 3-5 years like lettuce, and possibly parsley. Parsley is one herb that I don’t need to sow anymore.
By leaving a Parsley plant flower and set seed, you’ll have, like me, a continual supply of Parsley year round.
Until a regular visitor to the garden, a ringtail possum, decides they need something to eat in winter.
Then no Parsley.
There’s also the pea or Fabaceae family.
So yes, peas and beans are on the list.
Short shelf life-1 - 2 years
A few seeds have a relatively short shelf life and are good for one to two years at the most.
These include onions, parsnips, chives, scorzonera and leeks.
That isn’t definitive and depending on who you ask, some will say that they were able to get their 10 year old bean seeds to germinate or some other vegetable.
The "sow by" date is based on the validity of the germination test and is not necessarily an accurate indication of the freshness or shelf-life of the seed.
So, that’s why, when you hear, beans can be viable for up to 10 years shelf life.
That means, 10 years if they were stored in a cool dry and dark place, and that the seed company put fresh seed into the packet in the first place.

Of course flower seeds are another category and I don’t have time to mention those other than to say,

Pansies, Echinaceae, and Nasturtiums have germinated for me well past their use by date.
Before you start buying up seeds in the hope you’ll beat price rises and food shortages.
Seeds are best sown fresh.
Even stored in a fridge or freezer, the germination percentage and vigour will reduce over time.
Just a note on seed  provenance.
According to the experts, cucumber mosaic virus is transmitted via the seed.
Also, from those in the know, they say that there are other viruses that are seed born, so that gardeners can’t afford to be complacent.
Buy your seeds from a reputable source and if you’re not happy, let them know.

AND THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

DESIGN ELEMENTS

talking with Glenice Buck
http://glenicebuckdesigns.com.au/
Today starts a new 4 part series on re-designing a garden.
The setting is rural on a farm property, but within that property, a garden is created around the house.

"Berkshire" photo Glenice Buck

Over the next 4 weeks, you’ll be taken on a journey from the initial assessment of the site, the design process and planning, then the planting.
Let’s get started with part 1.


Even though your garden may not be as big, there’s some aspects of this project that you can borrow.




photo Glenice Buck

It may be the layout of the front garden or the plants that are selected, or even considerations of what to do with the slope of the land.
Or maybe it’s just an interesting insight to how your go about developing a 5 acre garden.
Did you know that in colonial times, farmers would plant 2 Bunya pines at the front of their property as "way finders?"

Bunya pines grow very tall, so that looking from a vantage point from a long distance, the stockmen or farmers, could find their way back to their own homestead.

Of course back then, there probably was quite a lot more native vegetation and no roads like we have today.

Or maybe it’s just an interesting insight to how your go about developing a 5 acre garden.

 It may be the layout of the front garden or the plants that are selected, or even considerations of what to do with the slope of the land.

 

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Talking about Marguerite daisies with Karen Smith editor of www.hortjournal.com.au and garden nursery owner Jeremy Critchley www.thegreengallery.com.au

In the past, when we’ve planted out daisy bushes, they’ve become straggly or just too big to look tidy.

In steps these new daisy varieties, and who can tell if they’re a Shasta daisy or a Marguerite daisy?

Is there a difference and does it matter?

Because they're so bright and colourful, you just want some in your garden

These particular daisies are colourful, easy to grow, flower a lot and have grayish green, deeply lobed leaves that are ferny and emit a strong fragrance when crushed.

They’ve been around in our Australian gardens for a long time, but what’s new about these plants?

Let’s find out …


Often mistaken for Shasta daisy and other daisies.
Argies can have flower types such as single or semi double and double flower types.
Plants are salt and wind tolerant and will grow in full sun to part shade, although they'll flower less in part-shade.
Those Marguerite daisies where you can see the centre, these are yellow centres and are the disc florets. The outside petals are the ray florets.

Jeremy's photo

Leaves are finely divided glaucous green foliage with a fragrant (to some) scent.

Argyranthemum or "Argies" are evergreen woody-based perennials or sub-shrubs, that grow no more than 30cm in height with white, yellow or pink, daisy-like flower-heads from late spring to autumn .

As Jeremy mentioned the new Sassy® Series of Marguerite daisy are compact plants with frilly foliage and many daisy-like flowers.

These rounded plants give off lots of flowers on their stem tips.
They first appear early in the spring and continue for a long flowering season. Each flower opens with a button-like golden yellow eye, and depending on the cultivar, have either lemon yellow, white or pink petals