Gardens to Grow and to Visit

A new series in design elements, dig plant and grow for all types of gardeners; Something that grows in the dark in Vegetable Heroes what’s a national historical garden society conference all about, and native winter flowers in Plant of the Week

DESIGN ELEMENTS

Dig, Plant, Grow

A lot of people from all ages, would like to start gardening but don't know where to begin

This new series called ‘dig, plant, grow’ is all about starting a garden either from scratch or perhaps you’ve inherited a garden and want to know what to do.

In either case you’ll be doing some digging.

My own garden in the rain: photo M Cannon

Let’s find out how to start.
I'm talking with Glenice Buck of Glenice Buck Designs
www.glenicebuckdesigns.com.au

• Glenice suggests digging a BIG hole!
• Yep, 50cm deep if you can go that far without hitting bedrock. Not  for the faint hearted. 
• this gives you an idea of what soil layers and textures you have.
  
• Add a bucket of water to the hole to see how fast it drains away. This is testing the drainage of your soil.
• You can't change climate, aspect, soil texture and drainage of your soil, but it pays to know what you're dealing with.

Glenice runs her workshops in Young, however there are similar workshops in all capitals and regional centres. Check out your local newspaper for more information.
For example, Sydney Community College runs a workshop which covers those topics called Small Space Gardening, which I run. It’s on a Monday evening.
For all the latest news - Follow Glenice on Facebook or Instagram
Facebook : www.facebook/glenicebuckdesigns
Instagram: Glenice_Buck_Designs
Or check out the website: www.glenicebuckdesigns.com.au
Or Subscribe to the monthly Garden Greetings Newsletter: www.tinyletter.com/glenicebuckdesigns

VEGETABLE HEROES

What are microgreens?

Microgreens are very young edible greens from vegetables, herbs or other plants.

It has to be said, growing microgreens is the speediest way to growing leafy greens because you’ll be cutting them in 1-2 weeks.

Plus, they add packets of flavour to salads of larger leaves and the best part, it couldn’t be any easier.

You can grow them indoors all year round, you don’t even need a sunny windowsill.

Micro greens grow to about 2 ½  to 4 cm long, including the stem and leaves.

• So what is a  microgreen?

It’s a plant that has a single central stem which has been cut just above the soil line during harvesting.

The first leaves that come out from any plant are called cotyledon leaves and usually one pair of very small, partially developed true leaves.

So, leaf and stem are never bigger than 4cm in height and 2 ½ cm across.

• Microgreens even though they’re really small have intense flavours but not as strong it would’ve been if the plant was left to grow to full size.

Usually I start talking about the history of the vegetable or fruit at this point.

There’s not much history at all about micro greens.

Maybe they started off as a fad in the 1990’s who knows?

They seem to be catching on more and more, because you can get seeds marketed as micro greens from major chain stores that have a gardening section.

How about greens, like all types of lettuce, Basil, Beets, Coriander and Kale that are harvested with scissors when they’re really, really, small?

• So what’s the difference between microgreens and sprouts?

Microgreens are not at all like sprouts, but grown in a similar way and picked or more correctly, cut at a later stage of growth.

Sprouts are only the germinated seed, root stem and underdeveloped leaves.

Microgreens are the mini-versions of the much larger green vegetable.

Sprouts are also grown entirely in water and not actually planted.

Microgreens are mostly planted in soil or a soil alternative like sphagnum moss, or coco peat.

Although you can grow your microgreens on a special tray with water underneath.

Plus you grow microgreens in light conditions with plenty of air circulation and not in a jar.

You might be wondering why you’d want that?

What’s wrong with growing salad vegetables in the garden?

This might be more for the busy gardener who’s run out of space or time available to grow a full garden of vegetables.

So how do you grow Micro greens?

There are a couple of ways to grow Microgreens.

The first method is to grow your greens in soil like organic, potting mix, cocopeat, vermiculite, sieved compost or worm castings.

Use seedling trays or boxes and fill the tray with your selected soil mix 2 - 3 cm deep and moisten the mix.

Soak the seed overnight then sprinkle the seeds evenly on top of the mix and gently pat them down; then cover with 0.5 cm of mix.

Cover the tray with a lid or another inverted tray to help keep the seeds moist until they sprout.

Then water often using a sprayer.

Adding diluted organic nutrients e.g. kelp or compost tea to the sprayer will improve the nutrient levels in the microgreens.

Microgreens are usually harvested when there are four or more leaves. Cut the shoots just above ground level with scissors.

TIP:Many types of vegetable seeds as micro greens and will regrow and can be cut several times.

Afterwards the tray contents can be added to the compost heap.

• The second way of growing your microgreens is using something called a Growing Tray. 
• This tray holds a reservoir of water and has holes in it so the plants can grow their roots down into the water.

Microgreens growing in a tray: photo M Cannon

You don’t even need soil, just a spray bottle of water and the seeds.

• But you do need to remember to spray the seed, 2-3 times a day until the roots develop, then keep water reservoir topped up with fresh water until harvest a couple weeks later!

You can buy them in stores or via mail order and online.

Microgreens seed packet range includes 5 mixed packets, each containing 3 varieties typical to a regional cuisine:

Flavours of the Mediterranean - Basil Italian Mix, Rocket and Sunflower

Flavours of France - Sorrel, Chervil and Sunflower

Flavours of Western Europe - Cress, Amaranth Red Garnet and Pea Morgan

Favours of Eastern Europe - Kale Pink, Cabbage Red and Pea Morgan

Flavours of the Orient - Mustard Ruby Streaks, Garland Chrysanthemum and Coriander

TIP: One thing to keep in mind, the seeds used to grow microgreens are the same seeds that are used for full sized herbs, vegetables and greens.

So, If you want to use up that packet of Cabbage, Celery, Chard, Chervil, Coriander, Cress, Fennel, Kale, Mustard, Parsley, Radish and Sorrel, rather than throwing it out. Grow the seeds as microgreens.

TIP:Never use parsnips for micro greens as seedlings they’re apparently poisonous!

Coriander seed takes longer to germinate than other micro greens – up to three weeks.

Coriander takes longer because partly due to the tough outer coating of the seeds, preventing water from penetrating.

You need to break the seed coat to give it a hurry up by crush the seeds lightly then soak overnight to speed up germination and improve success.

Why are they good for You?

Just because they’re mini greens doesn’t mean they have a high concentration of nutrients or even a miracle food. No such luck.

So they have proportionally smaller amounts of the same nutrients that the full sized vegetable that they would’ve been has.

They are eaten as thin, delicate plants - as miniature variations on salad greens and herbs. They provide texture and colour when used as garnish, or exciting flavours when used as part of salad mixes

If you have any questions about growing microgreens or where to buy the seeds for sowing, just drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com, parsley, tarragon and winter savoury.

THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO FOR TODAY

GARDEN HISTORY

National Conference

If you’ve never been to NZ, then perhaps you could tag along to the Australia Garden History Society’s 40th National Conference which is being held in Wellington.
But what happens at a National Conference and why should you go?
I'm talking with Stuart Read, committee member of the Australian Garden History Society.
Let’s find out..

Going to the conference?

Greenhaugh Garden New Zealand

Register at www.gardenhistorysociety.org.au to book for the conference.
There’s also a post conference tour alternative of the South Island.
The tour begins in Christchurch and ends in Queenstown.
If you have any questions for me or for Stuart write in to realworldgardener@gmail.com

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Banksia spinulosa

This next plant is a native but is often overlooked because people go for the more colourful and show Grevilleas.
They may come in limited colourways, but their flowers are much more substantial and spectacular, particular if you have several cultivars planted or grouped together.
Plus they provide nectar for wildlife during the colder months of the year.
Let’s find out about them
I'm talking with Jeremy Critchley owner of www.thegreengallery.com.au and Karen Smith editor of www.hortjournal.com.au

Banksia spinulosa

As cut flowers, Banksias can last for months.

Seeds Soils and Daisies in a Row

THE GOOD EARTH

An incredible diversity of organisms make up the soil food web.

They range in size from the tiniest one-celled bacteria, algae, fungi, and protozoa, to the more complex nematodes and micro-arthropods, to the visible earthworms, insects, small vertebrates, and plants.
These organisms not only benefit our soil but the plants that grow in them.
So how do we feed those organisms or attract them to the soil in our garden?

I'm talking with Margaret Mossakowska, President of Permaculture North and www.mosshouse.com.au
Let’s find out some more…


You probably have never thought about what soil organisms are doing in your garden or even wondered why you garden soil should even have them?
Did you know that by-products from your plants’ growing roots and plant residue feed soil organisms?
That’s good because in turn, soil organisms support plant health as they decompose organic matter, cycle nutrients, enhance soil structure, and control the populations of soil organisms including crop pests.
You can make a weed tea which when poured over your garden will get those micro-organisms working for you.
Weed Tea recipe.
One bucket with lid: Big bunch of garden weeds to about half the bucket: Cover with water.
Stir daily.

Your mixture will become frothy and smelly-that's fermentation.
When the smell has dissipated, your weed tea is ready.
Strain off the weed seeds, and dilute in the ratio 1 part weed tea to 10 parts water.
Most watering cans are 9 litres so your weed tea will be 90 ml or if you like, just a bit less than a litre.
If you have any questions about food for your soil, why not email realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

VEGETABLE HEROES

Shelf life of packet seeds.

We gardeners are guilty of buying too many seeds and realise, we just don’t have enough space to grow everything we would like to from seed.
Marketing gurus say that impulse buying is one big factor in seed sales.
That’s why they make the packets so attractive with those lovely photos on the front of the packet to entice your to buy them.
But what about the mail order companies? No photos there, but we still go crazy buying up too many because the seed catalogues are so alluring.

Why? Because they’ve that alluring promise that you’re buying something no mainstream gardener will have.
What to do with all those seed packets?
Shall you throw them into the compost or give them a go?
Now’s a good time to get out your seeds and take a look at the dates on the back usually.
You’ve probably got seeds lurking in a drawer, or maybe you’re more organised and they’re in a storage box.
Storing Your Seeds
Firstly let’s deal with how you’re storing your seeds.
If you’re keeping them in the garden shed that gets quite hot in summer, then the shelf life of your seeds is going to drop right down and possibly kill of your seeds.
Never store your seeds in a humid warm or sunny spot.
Seeds need to be kept cool and dry, ideally the temperature should be around  5°C and 10°C.
Keeping them in a tightly sealed jar in the fridge is good but who’se going to have enough room in the fridge for all those seeds?
A dark place somewhere in the garage or laundry that stays cool in summer is the best place.
When properly stored in a cool, dry place, seed’s shelf life can be extended. -

If you want to be really sure that the seeds you’ve got will germinate and you’ve got quite a few to burn, why not do a simple germination test?
Germination test: Take around 10 of your seeds, and place them in a row on top of a damp paper towel.
Fold over the paper towel and place in a zip-lock plastic bag and seal it; this helps to keep the towel moist and protected.
Then put in a warm location, like a high shelf or on top of the fridge  but make sure the spot you’ve picked is away from exposure to direct sunlight.
This can overheat your seeds.
Next, check the seeds often—around once a day—to see if they’ve  begun to germinate and  to check the moisture of the paper towel.
But don’t keep opening it everyday otherwise your experiment will go mouldy in no time.
Only open the zip lock bag if it needs more water, and carefully mist the towel so it’s only just damp, but not soggy.
Don’t apply too much water. 

Germination after 7 days.

I’ve recently heard that adding a drop of tea to the water helps with the germination rate.

TIP: Your seeds should begin to germinate in several days up to a couple of weeks, depending on the seed-type. A good rule of thumb is to wait roughly 10 days;




So how long do our veggie seeds last?

We know that the packet comes printed with the expiry date of seeds.
But we want to know can they last longer?
In Australia, seed companies are generally required by law to germination test seeds before they sell them.

The longest lasting seeds that I’ve germinated well past their expiry date, let’s say 3-4 years past, without any problem, are Basil, Kohlrabi, Broccoli and Rocket.
But let’s talk in families of plants such as in the Brassicaceae family.

Longest lasting seeds:
The long lasting seeds here are Beetroot, Silverbeet, Swish chard, Radish, Turnip, Cauliflower, Cabbage and Kale and Broccoli.
Next are those from the Solanaceae family, including tomato and eggplant.
Lastly, the Cucurbitaceae or Melon family.
Long lasting seeds in this family include cucumber, squash and watermelon.
Moderately lasting seeds 3 - 5 years.
Then there’s those seeds that aren’t so long lived but usually have a shelf life of 3-5 years like lettuce, and possibly parsley. Parsley is one herb that I don’t need to sow anymore.
By leaving a Parsley plant flower and set seed, you’ll have, like me, a continual supply of Parsley year round.
Until a regular visitor to the garden, a ringtail possum, decides they need something to eat in winter.
Then no Parsley.
There’s also the pea or Fabaceae family.
So yes, peas and beans are on the list.
Short shelf life-1 - 2 years
A few seeds have a relatively short shelf life and are good for one to two years at the most.
These include onions, parsnips, chives, scorzonera and leeks.
That isn’t definitive and depending on who you ask, some will say that they were able to get their 10 year old bean seeds to germinate or some other vegetable.
The "sow by" date is based on the validity of the germination test and is not necessarily an accurate indication of the freshness or shelf-life of the seed.
So, that’s why, when you hear, beans can be viable for up to 10 years shelf life.
That means, 10 years if they were stored in a cool dry and dark place, and that the seed company put fresh seed into the packet in the first place.

Of course flower seeds are another category and I don’t have time to mention those other than to say,

Pansies, Echinaceae, and Nasturtiums have germinated for me well past their use by date.
Before you start buying up seeds in the hope you’ll beat price rises and food shortages.
Seeds are best sown fresh.
Even stored in a fridge or freezer, the germination percentage and vigour will reduce over time.
Just a note on seed  provenance.
According to the experts, cucumber mosaic virus is transmitted via the seed.
Also, from those in the know, they say that there are other viruses that are seed born, so that gardeners can’t afford to be complacent.
Buy your seeds from a reputable source and if you’re not happy, let them know.

AND THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

DESIGN ELEMENTS

talking with Glenice Buck
http://glenicebuckdesigns.com.au/
Today starts a new 4 part series on re-designing a garden.
The setting is rural on a farm property, but within that property, a garden is created around the house.

"Berkshire" photo Glenice Buck

Over the next 4 weeks, you’ll be taken on a journey from the initial assessment of the site, the design process and planning, then the planting.
Let’s get started with part 1.


Even though your garden may not be as big, there’s some aspects of this project that you can borrow.




photo Glenice Buck

It may be the layout of the front garden or the plants that are selected, or even considerations of what to do with the slope of the land.
Or maybe it’s just an interesting insight to how your go about developing a 5 acre garden.
Did you know that in colonial times, farmers would plant 2 Bunya pines at the front of their property as "way finders?"

Bunya pines grow very tall, so that looking from a vantage point from a long distance, the stockmen or farmers, could find their way back to their own homestead.

Of course back then, there probably was quite a lot more native vegetation and no roads like we have today.

Or maybe it’s just an interesting insight to how your go about developing a 5 acre garden.

 It may be the layout of the front garden or the plants that are selected, or even considerations of what to do with the slope of the land.

 

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Talking about Marguerite daisies with Karen Smith editor of www.hortjournal.com.au and garden nursery owner Jeremy Critchley www.thegreengallery.com.au

In the past, when we’ve planted out daisy bushes, they’ve become straggly or just too big to look tidy.

In steps these new daisy varieties, and who can tell if they’re a Shasta daisy or a Marguerite daisy?

Is there a difference and does it matter?

Because they're so bright and colourful, you just want some in your garden

These particular daisies are colourful, easy to grow, flower a lot and have grayish green, deeply lobed leaves that are ferny and emit a strong fragrance when crushed.

They’ve been around in our Australian gardens for a long time, but what’s new about these plants?

Let’s find out …


Often mistaken for Shasta daisy and other daisies.
Argies can have flower types such as single or semi double and double flower types.
Plants are salt and wind tolerant and will grow in full sun to part shade, although they'll flower less in part-shade.
Those Marguerite daisies where you can see the centre, these are yellow centres and are the disc florets. The outside petals are the ray florets.

Jeremy's photo

Leaves are finely divided glaucous green foliage with a fragrant (to some) scent.

Argyranthemum or "Argies" are evergreen woody-based perennials or sub-shrubs, that grow no more than 30cm in height with white, yellow or pink, daisy-like flower-heads from late spring to autumn .

As Jeremy mentioned the new Sassy® Series of Marguerite daisy are compact plants with frilly foliage and many daisy-like flowers.

These rounded plants give off lots of flowers on their stem tips.
They first appear early in the spring and continue for a long flowering season. Each flower opens with a button-like golden yellow eye, and depending on the cultivar, have either lemon yellow, white or pink petals



 

Fabulous Strawberries and Astron Gardening

REAL WORLD GARDENER Wed. 5pm 2RRR 88.5fm Sydney, streaming live at www.2rrr.org.au and Across Australia on the Community Radio Network. www.realworldgardener.com
Real World Gardener is funded by the Community Broadcasting Foundation
REALWORLD GARDENER NOW ON FACEBOOK
The complete CRN edition of RWG is available on http://www.cpod.org.au/ , just click on 2RRR to find this week’s edition. The new theme is sung by Harry Hughes from his album Songs of the Garden. You can hear samples of the album from the website www.songsofthegarden.com

Feature Interview:

with TV personality and author, Indira Naidoo

Are you reading this as a first time gardener?
Or are you a keen gardener?
Gardeners like to learn constantly because you can never have too much information.
What about those gardeners who’ve had to scale down from a large block to a small patio garden?

What do you do there?
Here’s some sage advice from a well known personality.

Do what Indira suggests, although I know she’s not the first.
Plan just ten minutes everyday in the garden and see what happens.
Like a lot of gardener, you’ll probably find that you can do at least half an hour and it’ll only seem like ten minutes.
If you have any questions about anything gardening, why not drop us a line. Or send in a photo to realworldgardener@gmail.com or by post to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675, and I’ll send you a copy of the Garden Guardians in return..

Vegetable Heroes

Strawberries or Fragaria x ananasa.
Did you know that Fragaria means fragrance in Latin.
Strawberries aren’t actually berries because true berries have seeds inside them.
And as every schoolkid will tell you, strawberries have seeds on the outside, and usually about 200 of them.

So what are strawberries exactly?
Strawberries are sometimes called an accessory fruit or false fruit because of this .
Some or all of the fruit doesn’t grow in the ovary but on outside of the ovary.
That part of the flower’s called the receptacle because it holds the ovary.
You might find it hard to imagine, but each apparent "seed" (achene) on the outside of the fruit is actually one of the ovaries of the flower, with a seed inside it. Strange isn’t it?

Fragaria vesca  or the Alpine strawberry is native throughout the Northern Hemisphere.
Botanists think this was probably the ancestor of the garden strawberry of today.
There’s archaeological evidence suggesting that people ate strawberries as far back as during the Stone Age.
Interestingly, the first civilisation to grow them as a crop were the Persians in ancient Persia.
The Persian-called their strawberry plants - Toot Farangi.
By the 18^th century Fragaria x ananassa had replaced the alpine strawberry because of the larger berry or fruit.
How about this?
In parts of Bavaria, some people still tie small baskets of wild strawberries to the horns of their cattle as an offering to elves each Spring.
The Bavarians believe that because the elves love strawberries so much, they will help to produce healthy calves and lots of milk in return.
When to Grow:
For all sub-tropical, temperate and arid zones you can plant strawberries now if you see them for sale, because you surely will, but you’ll get advice that May and June are the best planting times.
For these districts, plant every-bearing varieties now for a bumper Autumn crop.

For cool mountain districts, October and November are your best planting times
.
They’re frost sensitive but a 10cm layer of mulch will be enough to protect the plants.

So what are the strawberry plants’ requirements?
The pattern for most strawberries is flowering in spring, set fruit in late spring/early summer, send runners out in summer and become dormant in winter.
At this time of year you will be able to get the ever bearing varieties which give you a second crop in autumn.

If you planted your strawberry plants, in last autumn and winter, they should’ve flowered already and you’ll be telling me that you’ve been enjoying strawberries with cream already.
But why not plant some more plants for Autumn strawberries?
What do Strawberry plants love?
Not sure what they like?
Well…Strawberries love at least 6 hours of sun a day and will grow in most soils but strawberries prefer a sandy loam that is deep and contains a lot of organic matter.
IMPORTANT: When planting a strawberry plant, make sure that about a third of the crown is above the soil. If you plant too deep or shallow the plant might die.
Strawberries have 70% of there roots located in the top 8cm of soil.
By mulching the soil, it helps to keep the roots from drying out and will prevent the plant from drowning in boggy soil.
This means that if growing your strawberries in the garden, you need to grow them on mounds to  improve drainage and you will also need to put down a thick layer of mulch such as hay, pea straw or sugar cane to prevent the berries from touching the soil and rotting.
Mulch as you should now, also prevents the soil from drying out too much.
Potting soils usually have the right mix if you’re planning on planting strawberries in a container.
In that case, add an extra inch or two of fresh compost either to the mix before filling the pot or to the surface of the potting mix.
I would also recommend adding some coco peat into the potting mix to increase water holding capacity.
The idea behind strawberry pots is good in principle but in practise I find it needs careful attention because the plants dry out too much.
And you know strawberry pots have several holes in them to cater for about5-6 plants.
TIP: Attaching your pots to a dripper system and putting a saucer under the strawberry pot will save your strawberry crop this year.
Also make sure you water the plants, especially when the young plants are establishing, and during dry spells.

Strawberries prefer a moist environment.
Avoiding overhead watering will reduce fungal disease; drip irrigation or a 'leaky pipe' is best.

They're technically a perennial so live for a few years producing fruit.
After 3-4 years (or even sooner) the plants usually become diseased and die.
And don't forget nurseries do sell certified virus-free stock, and that's the safest way to grow new strawberry plants.
To feed your strawberries, sprinkle a small handful of complete fertilizer (such as tomato food,  organic pellets, fish emulsion and any stuff which is high in potash) around each plant when it first comes into flower, and water well. Liquid seaweed fertilizer once a fortnight will not go astray either.
For Ever- bearing varieties, the autumn crop is the biggest and you can choose from Tempation which doesn't send out runners so it's great for hanging baskets and Sweetheart is very sweet to taste – an everlasting variety also have their fruit set in autumn.

What about those strawberries that you can get from the supermarket?
 No matter how small, or distorted your home grown strawberries might be they won’t be like some store bought ones.
We’re talking about those really big, really hard, tasteless, even sour strawberries that you might’ve and definitely I had the misfortune to bite into this week. Urghhhh!
No amount of ice-cream made these strawberries taste better.
They would make a nice picture for a magazine but might as well be plastic.
By the way, I’ve been asked by a listener, about the glittery stuff on her strawberry plants in the morning.
That glittery stuff, is the dried snail trails which have a glistening effect when the mucous has completely dried.
Look under the leaves of your strawberries to find them hiding there.Why are they good for you?
Strawberries are low fat, low calorie; high in vitamin C, fibre, folic acid, and potassium
From only half a punnet of strawberries you'll get more than 100% of your daily needs of Vitamin C,  and  5.5g fibre in if you eat the whole punnet of strawberries that's about  20% of your daily fibre needs.
Did you know that eating strawberries, which are rich in nitrate, can increase the flow of blood & oxygen to the muscles by 7%?
This prevents muscle fatigue, making exercise easier.
Strawberries are also low in kilojoules, meaning you can eat 2 cups as one of your daily fruit serves!
Happy STRAWBERRY growing everyone!

Living Planet

with ecologist Sophie Golding
Do you think of your dog, cat or other pets as your best friend that should be allowed to go with you everywhere?
In some countries bringing your pet with you to enjoy a meal is de rigeur. What about National parks and reserves?

Think about this:
National parks and reserves are refuges for native animals.
Dog faeces carry diseases which can be harmful to wildlife and people, and also add nutrients to the soil, increasing the spread of weeds.
If dogs and other domestic pets  frighten native animals away from popular visitor areas, there will be no wildlife for other visitors to see.

Listen to these thoughts.




Dogs and other domestic pets (other than trained assistance animals such as guide dogs) must not be taken into national parks, state conservation areas, nature reserves, historic sites or Aboriginal areas, because:

Native animals see dogs as predators.
The lasting scent left by dogs can easily scare small animals and birds away from their homes, often causing them to leave their young unprotected.
However, you can walk your dog in some regional parks.
If you have any questions about pets in nature reserves and national parks, send them in to realworldgardener@gmail.com
 

 Plant of the Week

Callistephus chinensis – China Aster

Did you know that any scientific plant name ending with chinensis means the plant is native to or originally comes from China?
The same applies to japonica-yes, that means the plant originally came from Japan.
For a select few Australian plant names, we have australis, but not too many I don’t know why.

Who do you remember growing Asters?
Was it you father, grandfather or perhaps a neighbour, when you were growing up?

The name Aster comes from the Ancient Greek word astron, meaning "star",  referring to the shape of the flower head.

Did you know of all the plants from China in our gardens, like Magnolias, Camelias, roses peaches, plums and even camphor laurels, the first annual was the Aster?

As a member of Asteraceae (the daisy family) Callistephus is closely related to species such as Chrysanthemum, Calendula, Tagetes, and Dahlia.

An annual, that means it flowers, sets seed and dies in the same year in sun or partial shade.
Asters flower for months on end.

The centre is usually yellow. You may remember that the centre is made up of disc florets surrounded by ray florets which people think of as petals.

There are many different varieties that grow between 20 – 80 cm in height, with toothed leaves.
Asters flowers come in singles, double and anemone type flower heads in colours from white to reds and pastels.

When to plant: Spring through Autumn.
 

How to grow:
You usually get around 250 seeds in one packet.
Sow in trays or punnets, 6mm (quarter-inch) deep.
“Just cover” for me means I cover the seeds with a sprinkling vermiculite, then mist it to make the vermiculite moist.
When the seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them into 7.5cm (3in) pots .
Handle the plants with care and avoid disturbing the roots as much as possible when transplanting to prevent wilting.
Keep the seedlings moist.
Transplant your seedlings into the flowering site in early Spring, preferably in October if you’ve got your act together.
Plant 25-45cm (18in) apart, waiting until frosts are over
Light spring frosts will not harm the plants.
You can sow the seeds direct in flowering position.  
Sow thinly, 6mm (1/4in) deep in small clumps or shallow drills. Prefer light soils.
 In hot weather, spread a mulch of lawn clippings or compost over the soil surface to conserve moisture and keep roots cool.
Asters require plenty of water during their growing and flowering season, and especially during dry weather.
Fertilise twice during the growing months with a 3 month granular feed.
Varieties of Asters:
Aster Californian Giant is an 'old favourite' produces brilliantly coloured displays during Summer. An old variety, grown for cut flowers in Victorian times that are, once again becoming very fashionable. Aster Ostrich Plume orAster Seeds Ostrich Feather
Has large double blooms with long 'feathery'  re-curving, petals in pastel colours.
Reminds me of those ostrich feather boas on a stick.

The long lasting Aster flowers are on tall base-branching stems and make ideal cut flowers.

Aster Pot n Patio from www.newgipps.com.au
Dwarf early flowering plants which grow to around 15cm. Flowers 5 to 7 cm across in a range of blue, pink and scarlet shades. Superb in containers, alone or in mixed plantings.

TIP: Remove dead flowers to prolong blooming and provide support for the heavy flowerheads.
Cut flowers will last 8 to 10 days in water.

TIP: Cut when flowers are half-open; recut stems underwater.

China asters make great cut flowers but if you’re not changing the water in the vase everyday, here’s another tip.
Vases used for china Asterss should be thoroughly cleaned afterward because of the odour you get from China-aster stems kept for a long time in water.
Also, take off all leaves from the part of the stem that will stand under water.
But that’s good advice for any cut flower.