Yummy Figs and Pretty Little Brown Birds

WILDLIFE IN FOCUS

Brown Thornbill Acanthiza pusillaOften referred to by birders as LBB, this little bird can look similar to a lot of other little birds.
the characteristic shape of Thornbills are short tail, short sharp body , sort of like a ping pong ball.

Brown Thornbill photo Birds of  Australia

Often these birds are hard to identify because they’re not a conspicuous bird and are rarely seen on the ground.
But being a rather inquisitive bird it will usually come out if you make squeaking noises.
Let’s find out about how to best identify this LBB.

I'm talking with Dr Holly Parsons, Manager of Birds in Backyards.



Brown Thornbill photo barwonbluff.com.au
 

 Brown Thornbills will quite happily visit your garden, the park, or your local nature strip, particularly where there are large patches of remnant vegetation or shrubby creek lines.
Did you know that the Brown Thornbill sticks around its home territory for life? Apparently marked birds known to be 11 years old have been re-captured several times, never having moved more than a few hundred metres from where they were first caught.
If you have any questions about Brown Thornbills or any other bird, drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675

VEGETABLE HEROES

Florence Fennel Foeniculum vulgare dulce and var. azoricum
Did I really mean Florence Fennel?
You might think that I’m trying to get you to grow that roadside weed that is found all over Australia.
No, I’m talking about the culinary fennel.
That other fennel was probably the Fennel  mentioned in the seed  inventory list brought out to Australia by the First Fleet in 1788.
Fennel is a member of the Apiaceae family, which include parsley, caraway, dill, cumin, anise and carrot.
Did you know that in Ancient Greece fennel juice was used as an effective cure for poor eyesight, night blindness and cataract?
In medieval Europe, fennel and St John's wort were used together to ward off evil.
The real fennel Florence fennel Foeniculum vulgare Azoricum Group;

 is a cultivar group with a sort of bulb at the base that you can use in cooking, salads and stir fries.
Also the real fennel or Florence Fennel has a much milder anise-like flavour, than wild Fennel and is more aromatic and sweeter.
Where  and When to grow it?
This plant is best in hot, dry climates but will grow in practically all climates of Australia. Knowing when to sow the seeds is the key.
Timing is crucial: if sown too early, cold can cause bolting; if sown too late, plants won't fatten up before the winter
Now is ideal, when the temperature is stable, day length is consistent and there's at least 16 weeks for bulbs to develop.
In sub-tropical areas, you can plant or sow seeds from March until May, in temperate zones, from February until May, in cool temperate zones, you have from February until about mid- March, and for cold or mountain districts, it was February then not again until November/December unless you have a greenhouse.
When to Sow:
For arid areas you have March and April and again in July.
Should you have a soil thermometer, Fennel is best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 25°C  and as a general rule of thumb, soil temperatures are around a few degrees cooler than the current air temperature.
Florence Fennel is a perennial that’s rather stocky and really only grows to about 60cm.
It resents disturbance and responds to any shock by bolting: so you’ll only get feathery fronds and flowers, but no swollen stems.
Because the bulb grows only partially below ground, and mostly above ground it suits those districts with heavy soils. Otherwise, you can grow it in a pot-by itself.
What Does Florence Fennel Like?

Florence Fennel

Florence Fennel isn’t too fussy with soils as long as the veggie bed, or garden bed is well drained as has compost or decayed animal manure dug in, In cool temperate districts cut back the plant to about 10cm above the ground as winter draws nearer.
Fennel likes a well-drained soil, fertile from having been manured the previous year.
When planting your Florence Fennel seeds –sow them about  5mm deep, and unless you’ve got a lot of space, you don’t need more than 2 or 3 because they need spacing of about 30cm.
Never let the soil dry out because water is needed for germination, steady growth and swelling.
If roots become visible or plants seem unsteady, earth them up to stabilise them.
This will help make bulbs white and tender and, later, exclude frost.
After about 6 weeks you can hill out the soil around the emerging bulb so that, like Celery, the base stays white and is more tender than if you allow the sunlight to turn it green.
To Hill or Not to Hill.
Hilling up is just mounding soil or mulch around the base of the plant.
You can make sleeves out of newspapers or use bottomless milk cartons to keep the hilled soil from getting into the leaves of the Fennel plant.
Plants take several months to mature that’s 3-4 months after sowing.
When they look big enough to eat use a garden fork to loosen the roots and cut the bulb off about 2.5cm above the ground.
This way you’ll get more feathery shoots that can be used as celery/dill-flavoured seasoning in the kitchen.
 The bulb is best sweet, ripe and fresh (try it raw in salads) but it will also keep for several weeks in a cool, dry place.

Florence Fennel flowers with seed.

You can get root cuttings from plants that have been lifted during spring, so any if you attend a garden club, ask if any members have this plant.
There are plenty of seed suppliers in Australia that have Florence Fennel Seeds.
Why is it good for you?
The fennel bulb is also an excellent source of Vitamin C
Did you know that if you don’t get enough Vitamin C that’s linked to the increase in the incidence of rheumatoid arthritis and osteoarthritis?
 Fennel also has folate (Vitamin B), fibre and potassium.
One cup of fennel has 10.8 per cent of the daily fibre intake, 5.9 per cent of the daily folate and 10.3 per cent of the daily potassium.
TIP:An advantage of growing Florence fennel are that it attracts parasitic wasps and very small Praying Mantises.
It’s free of pests and it looks great and the Fennel bulb is delicious baked, too why not try it grated raw in a salad or baked in lasagne.. Definitely worth a try.
AND THAT WAS OUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

DESIGN ELEMENTS

 Scorch Damage on Plants
This garden series with Garden Designer Peter Nixon, is all about garden challenges thrown at us mostly by nature but also due to a situation in your garden that you might need to fix.

Today’s garden challenge is about scorch damage- that’s the browning of plant tissues, including leaf margins and tips, and yellowing or darkening of veins which may lead to eventual wilting the leaf dropping off.


What can you do? Let’s find out. I'm talking with Peter Nixon Garden Designer. www.peternixon.com.au




Aniseed Myrtle, scorch damage. photo M Cannon

Sunburn on plants sounds a bit far- fetched but that’s what happens and if the air is hot enough, flowers will dry and curl up even if they’re in shade.

Affected plants may sometimes recover through watering and fertilization (if the cause is not over-fertilization).

Light pruning may also help to reduce the water-pumping load on the roots and stems.
Make sure that the watering you do actually gets down into the soil.



If you have any questions about scorch damage in your garden, write in and let us know what happened our email address, or just post it realworldgardener@gmail.com

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Ficus carica Edible Figs

Know to Egyptians as the “tree of life,” this fruit tree is small enough to fit most gardens.
Better still these trees ( figs) don’t need  pollination for you to get the fruit.
Let’s find out more. I'm talking with the plant panel;Karen Smith editor of Hort Journal and Jeremy Critchley, the owner of the Green Gallery Nursery, www.thegreengallery.com.au

Figs can be grown in most parts of Australia, as they love a hot, fairly dry climate.

Edible figs grow to around 3m tall and 5m wide but can be larger.
They need a sunny spot because full sun is vital not to mention well-drained soil.

Figs can be planted virtually year-round but, as they are deciduous, so why not wait until in winter, so you can grow your own at that time from a hardwood cutting.
They can also be grown in large containers. Figs are long-lived
Fig trees don't need to be pollinated to develop sweet seedless fruits.
Each species of fig tree has its own specific fig wasps.
Botanical Bite.
Fig fruits are lined with unisexual flowers inside the fruit.
So how do the flowers get pollinated?
We think of figs as fruit but the fig is actually what's scientifically called an infructescence or scion of the tree, known as a false fruit or multiple fruit.


Fig Brown Turyey

At one end of the fig fruit is a small hole or orifice (ostiole) which is easy to see.
In the middle of the fruit is a narrow passage, which allows the specialized fig wasp Blastophaga psenes to enter the fruit and pollinate the flower.
Quite often the wasp loses one or both of its wings on its journey inside the fruit.Figs fruit should be picked when they are slightly soft to the touch and smelling sweet.  Although according to some fig connoisseurs, pollination produces a more delicious fig with a superior nutty flavor due to the seeds.
Figs will NOT continue to ripen once they have been removed from the tree, so pick them when you need them and handle them with care as they can bruise easily
 



The Queen of Autumn Flowers

TOOL TIME

Do you have all the tools you need to do those cutting jobs in the garden?
Secateurs are good for small pruning jobs where you can cut stems and branches about the size of your first finger.
Generally if it's green it cuts more easily than hardened branches sometimes found lower down on shrubs and hedges.

Cut and Hold pruners. Photo. Cut Above Tools

For the harder stems you might need to reach for something bigger.
Or are you struggling with some old secateurs and a rusty pair of garden loppers?
Don’t know what loppers are?
Let’s find out about what tools you should be using for those pruning jobs in the garden. I'm talking with Tony Mattson, General Manager of www.cutabovetools.com.au

Some long handled pruners use the "cut and hold," method. They're about 3 metres long when extended and have a trigger.


Well used garden tool selection.

The beauty of "cut and hold" loppers is that once you've pruned it, you can bring the pruned branch down. (see photo above.)
Good for tops of Camellias or getting the fruit of mango and avocado trees.

The best tip is to hold the pruning tool that you’re thinking of buying for at least a minute to see if you can stand the weight.

This is a good idea because when you’re pruning your garden shrubs, hedges roses or whatever, you’ll be out there for a lot longer than a minute or two.

So if you think that long handled lopper is too heavy for you, don’t get the tool.
If you have any questions about the right tool for the right job, drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675


VEGETABLE HEROES

Tamarind Tamarindus indica of the Fabaceae family.

Tamarind is native to Africa but grows in most of the Asian countries these days.

It’s always a bit odd to include a tree in this segment because you don’t think of trees as being a vegetable. Perhaps the fruit of the tree?

In this case the pods of the tree are edible as are the leaves.

Where the name came from?

When Arab sea-traders came across the Tamarind tree, they thought the sticky black pulp and seeds of the fruit was just like their native date palm, so they combined their common name for date palm ‘Tamr’, along with the Arabic name for India (‘hindi’), to arrive at the common name tamrhindi on which the scientific name Tamarindus is based.

Apparently Tamarind pulp has been traded for thousands of years.

Tamarind trees have been growing in North Queensland for many years and some of the older ones have reached enormous size.

Did you know that Tamarind trees are indictors of long contact between Indigenous and Macassan traders?

How we know this is because Tamarind trees grow along the Kimberley and Arnhem Land coast are hundreds of years old and have survived through cyclones and fires.

Their positions indicate the location of Macassan trading camps that were set up on the coast many hundreds of years ago.

The Macassans sailed from the island of Macassar in the eighteenth century, which today is known as Sulawesi, Indonesia.

Tamarind tree in Brisbane Botanic Gardens.

So what is Tamarind?

Tamarind fruit is a legume with a fleshy edible pulp inside and is mainly used in cooking.

But for the long distance sailors it was also a handy source of vitamin C.

In the same way Europeans carried citrus to ward off scurvy, the Macassans used tamarind.

Why grow a Tamarind?

It looks nice, with ferny foliage that almost look like acacia leaves.

The red and yellow flowers are very attractive pea shaped flowers that almost look like mini orchids and although each flowers is only 2 ½ cms wide, they hang together in a bunch, scientifically a raceme so they look all the more spectacular.

The tree itself has weeping branches that give plenty of shade.

Tamarind pods are slightly curved, 10 to 15 cm long and have a brown colour.



Tamarind fruit. Photo www.daleysfruit.com.au

There are, 4 to 12 seeds in each pod but the rest of the pod is made up of  yellowish or brown coloured pulp that tastes very sweet and sour but pleasant .Tamarind trees are very slow growing so you won’t have to worry about it reaching 20 metres any time soon.

Where to grow it.

Tamarind prefers a tropical and subtropical, dry and windy climate.

It can adapt even to a warm temperate climate, but there they won’t be very productive.

Young plants won’t cope with cold winters, but the mature or adults plant is develops a greater cold tolerance to temperatures as low as -2⁰ Celsius.

Having said that, Tamarind will recover from frosts if protected when young.

The best planting position is in full sun.

For flowering, fruit setting and fruit development, tamarind trees need clear sky and drier days in other words a dry season to grow well and has great drought resistance so it’s ideal for semi-arid regions as long as you give it some extra watering.

Tropical conditions are preferred of course but you know gardeners like a challenge and this tree makes a lovely shade tree.

It tolerates most soils, as long as they are free draining.

The pods are harvested when mature, that is, when they turn a cinnamon-brown.

In many tropical countries they have been an important item of export, thanks to their long shelf life.

There they strip the pulp from the shell and press into large cakes, seeds and all. These are then packed for shipment on sacks made from palm leaves.

The seeds of the Tamarind retain viability many months when kept dry if you want to propagate them.

So how else can you use Tamarind?

You can peel off the brittle shell to eat the pulp raw.
 Or you could make a tamarind drink.
Make it like a cup of tea, sweetened to taste, refrigerate.
 Better than cordial some say.
The leaves, flowers and immature pods are eaten as vegetables.
The ripened fruit is used in desserts, as a jam, blended into juices, or sweetened drinks, sorbets, ice creams and other snacks.
In Western cuisine, it is found in Worcestershire sauce.. 
WHY ARE THEY GOOD FOR YOU?

Tamarind has large amounts of Vitamin C of course.Tamarind pulp also contains 70% carbohydrate, 3% protein and less than 1% fat, it also contains tartaric acid (8-10%), which occurs in other fruits like bananas and grapes.

DESIGN ELEMENTS

Impact Damage on Plants part 2.
This garden series with Garden Designer Peter Nixon, is all about garden challenges thrown at us mostly by nature but also due to a situation in your garden that you might need to fix.

Impact damage on Bromeliads

So far we’ve been covering hail damage, but will also cover sun scorch, garden loopers, and a few other odds and sods that aren’t necessarily damage but a garden challenge all the same.



Impact damage on Begonias.

Today’s garden challenge is about foliage dependent damage mainly from hail, but we’re delving more into what you should do with different plants that have been affected.
I'm talking with Peter Nixon, garden designer.

Lots of tips there for Bromeliad, tropical and rainforest gardens.

Don't reach for the secateurs on your Bromeliads that have been split longitudinally.

Leave your plant for a week or two, because the plant may be able to re-direct the starch from the damaged leaves to the growing point, and you'll be depriving the plant from resources to come back with.

Bromeliads with hail/impact damage. Photo M Cannon

If the terminals are intact on your Kalanchoe, you can cut back to just above the bud and it will re-flush.

It may take a year to recover, but it will recover.

For dented type of damage on  succulents such as Crassula, cut that away too.

It’s not just the leaves that get affected by the damage, but take a closer look at the stems, branches and trunk of your trees and shrubs to see if they’ve been hit as well.

If you  have any questions about hail damage in your garden, write in and let us know what happened our email address, or just post it realworldgardener@gmail.com

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Dahlia species.

I remember hiding amongst the large Dahlia bushes as a little girl.

There seemed to be only a few colours that my father could get, we lived in a small country town in South Australia, and the Dahlias were a  dark crimson purple to light pink.

As long as we lived in that house he would replant them in the same spot, near the front fence every year. The rest of the garden had mostly vegetables and fruit trees.

Dahlias photo M Cannon

Would you like to grow a small bush that’s just like a bunch of flowers?
Known as the “queen of the autumn garden’ the old fashioned Dahlia varieties of this plant grew into quite a large bush that needed staking.
The new varieties are plants that are small enough just to grow in a pot and when it’s covered in flowers you can bring it indoors and use it instead of a bunch of flowers.
Let’s find out more. I'm talking with the plant panel - Karen Smith editor of Hort Journal and Jeremy Critchley, the owner of the Green Gallery Nursery, www.thegreengallery.com.au 

Dahlia plants range in height from as low as 30cm tall as 2-3 metes. The flowers can be as small as 5cm or up to a 30cm in diameter.

There are literally thousands of cultivated varieties of Dahlias which have been hybridized throughout the years.

Dahlia Summer Days - a single variety. photo M Cannon

You can leave your Dahlia tubers in the ground in warmer areas.The black leaf variety "Dahlia Summer Days" are not as susceptible to powdery mildew and spider mite, plus only growing to 30cm in height they don't need staking.

It may surprise you to learn that the Dahlia flower is the national flower of Mexico, most likely because it native to the country.

When given as a gift, the dahlia flower expresses sentiments of dignity and elegance.





Dahlias are also a symbol of commitment and bond that lasts forever. 

Maybe not so much today, but the dahlia flower was used in gardens and flower arrangements to celebrate love and marriage.



Flowers the Size of Dinner Plates

SPICE IT UP

Chervil leaf

CHERVIL
This fine delicate herb is not grown as much these days even though it’s been grown as a herb for over 2,000 years!
Although I’m pretty sure that fine restaurants are serving it up as something special, most likely as microgreens.
Belonging in the carrot family, the fine leaves almost do look like carrot tops.
Sometimes sold  as "Fine" (pronounced feen) herbs which is a combination of parsley, tarragon chervil and occasionally a small amount of marjoram.
Definitely lovely on fish dishes, sauces, especially Béarnaise sauce and soups.

Let’s find out about how to use this lovely herb…I'm talking with herb expert Ian Hemphill from www.herbies.com.au



Chervil in the home garden photo M Cannon

Growing Chervil
If you want to grow your own Chervil here are some tips.
The seeds are slow to germinate, but here’s a tip:- The night before sowing, pour boiling water over seeds and leave to soak overnight.
Chervil seeds also need light to germinate so don’t bury them with too much soil or potting mix.
Germination usually occurs in 2-3 weeks but can take longer.
Sow your Chervil seeds only about 5mm deep and thin plants to 30cm apart.
Chervil will grow in any soil but dislikes being too wet although it does need water, but it won’t like being in badly drained soil.
Tip: Best sown in situ as seedlings don’t transplant well and they sometimes bolt when transplanted. A bit like Coriander.
Definitely worth growing even just to try it.
If you're interested in making Chervil soup, try hunting down books by Rosemary Hemphill either "Herbs for All Seasons," or "Fragrance and Flavour," to get the specific recipe that Ian mentions.
If you have any questions about growing Chervil or any other herb, drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675

VEGETABLE HEROES

BETEL LEAF Piper sarmentosumCOMMON NAMES: betel pepper, wild pepper, kadok, la lot
Betel leaf is a native plant to Vietnam and Thailand, and is related to black pepper.
If you’ve ever eaten Thai food chances are that you’ve already eaten Betel leaves or at least had food served on a platter of Betel leaves.
Traditionally, Betel leaf plant was used to treat fever, as an expectorant, for treating toothache, coughs, asthma and pleurisy.

Some say it has a somewhat pungent odour and taste, others find it mild with a hint of black pepper.
I’m going with the mild flavour because that’s what is grown mostly in Australia.
What Does It Look Like?
Betel leaf is an evergreen, perennial creeper that doesn’t grow particularly tall. Only to about 1 metre.
But for the romantic gardener, and I seem to be featuring plants in this segment that can be considered romantic, because Betel leaf has shiny heart-shaped leaves that have a waxy, glossy surface.
There we go, aren’t heart shaped leaves romantic?

Betel leaf vine photo M Cannon



Betel leaf flowers

The flowers are very small –on white flower spikes.
After flowering little dry rounded fruits with little bulges show up –almost like a little green/brown mulberry when ripe and can be eaten;
The fruit is sweet and has a jelly-like pulp.
So what’s betel leaf got going for it?
Romance aside, as a food, it makes a great 'wrap' for prawns and can be shredded to add to salads and quick stir-fry's. 

More on its uses later.
You can grow Betel leaf in most parts of Australia at any time of the year.
All you need to do is find a spot in fairly good, well-drained soil with partial shade.
Under a tree somewhere is good and keep it moist but don’t overdo it because it doesn’t cope with waterlogging. Frost will damage the leaves but not kill the plant once it is well established.
Betel leaf makes a good groundcover under trees in subtropical and tropical areas.
In warmer climates Betel leaf grows really well in the right position and has a habit of suckering which isn’t that difficult to remove.
You can grow it successfully in colder areas but not in the ground.
Put your plant in a hanging basket or large pot and move it to a warm, sheltered position in winter.
By putting your pot on the ground, this will allow the plant to grow out from the pot onto the ground and spread like a ground cover.
As it spreads it sends down roots from sections.

In cooler areas you could try keeping it in a large pot so it sends down multiple roots.
If you’re wondering where to buy it and don’t seem to have any luck try an Asian veggie shops.
It’s easy to propagate from cuttings at the warmer times of the year.
Growers take the top 20cm of the vine and sell it as a bunch to local markets.
You can buy a bunch of Betel leaves, take of the bottom two-thirds of leaves leaving the top few, and recut the bottom.
Put these cuttings in a glass with water and they will be producing roots in no time.
Another method is to take cuttings again about 25 cm long, strip the leaves off the bottom half of the stems and bury to half their length in potting mix.
Cover with plastic or place these cuttings in a greenhouse and keep moist.
Remember Betel leaf plant likes a wet shaded position protected from frost and midday sun; so it’s best under trees that allow some sunlight through to underneath.

Betel leaf vine

So how else can you use Betel Leaf?
The leaves are large enough to wrap a filling.
Betel leaves are often used ‘open’ topped with something delicious like a prawn with coconut.
Include them in a stir fry .
The spicy leaves are popular in south east Asian cooking, being used raw and cooked. To eat raw in a salad or use as a wrapping the younger more tender leaves are the best to use.

Used in omelettes in Vietnamese cooking and to wrap mince.
In Thailand, these wraps are a favourite snack, 'mieng kum', using an assortment of fillings, like peanuts, shrimps, shallots with lime and raw ginger.
Use as a herb in rice or in salads.
They look great as a garnish too .

TIP: If you soak the leaves in cold water with a little sugar for 2 hours before use this changes the flavour just slightly.
As the leaves are a very attractive heart shape, they’re often used as a base to line platters, with foods arranged on top.
The white flower spikes develop into a small fruit that can be eaten.
Fresh leaves are prone to dryness and fungal rots.
You can store the leaves just like lettuce, in the fridge for a few days (3-5) in a sealed plastic bag.
Use as soon as possible soon after.

WHY ARE THEY GOOD FOR YOU?
Good source of protein, potassium, nitrogen and minerals.
The plant has many traditional medicinal uses. Malaysians use the leaves for headaches, arthritis and joint pain.
In Thailand and China the roots are crushed and blended with salt to relieve toothache.  
In Indonesia it’s used as a natural antibiotic, and drunk as a tea daily.
To make the tea, take 2 cups of water and bring to the boil in a saucepan. Drop in 7 mature size leaves, and simmer for a few minutes.
AND THAT WAS OUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

 DESIGN ELEMENTS

This garden series with Garden Designer Peter Nixon, is all about garden challenges thrown at us mostly by nature but also due to a situation in your garden that you might need to fix.
Last week we covered hail damage, sun scorch, garden loopers, and a few other odds and sods that aren’t necessarily damage but a garden challenge all the same

Hail damage on leaves

.
Today’s garden challenge is impact damage also from hail, but we’re delving more into what you should do with different plants that have been affected.

I'm talking with Garden Designer, Peter Nixon 

If you come home to find most of your garden covered in leaves because of a recent storm, wind, hail or something else, don't rake it up and dispose of it, but use it as a surface mulch.

Hail damage on stems

Just make sure the leaves are bunched up against the trunks and stems of plants, otherwise you'll have problems with collar rot or other fungal problems.
Don't dig it in because it's green and will draw down nitrogen from the soil.
Quite often the stems are also impacted so the cambium is stripped off leaving only the heartwood.
It it's only a young plant, then it's best to dig it out because the plant has become to weakened.
If the canopy and branches aren't too badly stripped off, then cut back the ragged ends of the stems as soon as possible.
If you have any questions about hail damage in your garden, write in and let us know what happened our email address, or just post it realworldgardener@gmail.com

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Hibiscus rosa-chinensis: Hibiscus moscheutus

Rose Mallow

This next flower is the official state flower of Hawaii, so it’s no surprise that when you see the shrub covered in those flowers that you can’t help but think of sandy beaches, aquamarine seas and grass skirts. 

Let’s find out more.
I'm talking with the plant panel:
Karen Smith editor of www.hortjournal.com.au
and Jeremy Critchley owner of www.thegreengallery.com.au


The common Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-chinensis) that you see in many gardens, grows to about 3 metres tall.
Vigorous growing and best pruning at the beginning of Spring because they flower on new wood.

Hibiscus moscheutos or Rose Mallow Rose Mallow are native to swamps, wetlands and along creek edges in the southeast United States.
These Hibiscus are herbaceous so are good for cold climates because the plant has died down.
Growth is to 80 cm and these Hibiscus prefer shade and part shade.


Hibiscus moscheutus "Pink Swirl.'

All Hibiscus thrive if you give them lots of organic matter with an addition of Potash.

Generally Rose Mallow comes in pink white and red coloured flowers, that's the Luna series which are the only ones available in Australia.

According to growers, they can get up to 80 - 100 flowers, however, the flowers only last a day.

Plant them in a sandy but moisture retaining, slightly acidic soil that has been  enriched with compost or other organic material.

Water regularly and thoroughly during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.

TIP:
Rose Mallow plants should never be allowed to completely dry out, or they’ll immediately stop blooming. 

Plants resent any disturbance to their root system so be extremely careful, soak the soil thoroughly and dig wide before attempting to transplant your Hibiscus.
 

Hibiscus moscheutus "red"

A Bit if Trivia
The official state flower is the yellow hibiscus (Hibiscus brackenridgei), also known as the pua aloalo.
Hawaiians originally adopted the hibiscus flower (of all colors) as their official Territorial flower in the early 1920s.
It wasn’t until 1988, however, that Hawaii’s legislature legally adopted the yellow hibiscus as the official state flower.
The hibiscus originated in Asia and the Pacific islands. It’s believed that there were originally only five hibiscus species native to the Hawaiian islands.

All Types of Mint and Lilies



WILDLIFE IN FOCUS

Brahminy Kite
Not all birds come into our gardens not because us gardeners haven’t planted the right amount of trees, shrubs and groundcovers, but because they’re just not into gardens.
Birds of prey or raptors are one such bird that will most likely never visit, unless you’re a wildlife carer and happen to be looking after one.

The Brahminy kite is a medium sized bird of prey with a white head and rest of body, being chestnut brown.
There are also black fingers that extend from the wings that are very distinctive when it's flying overhead.
Let’s find out about one of the smaller raptors of Australia. I'm talking with Dr Holly Parsons, manager of Birds in Backyards

So not all birds of prey are land birds.
Some like the Brahminy Kite have a niche that is more coastal bird of prey.
Places they like to visit are estuaries, harbours and mangroves.
Brahminy kites have weak feet for a raptor and tend to feed on fish, small animals and crustaceans.
They also scavenge on carrion and can sometimes be seen at tips.
Occasionally they might steal food from other birds.
If you have any questions about identifying Brahminy Kites from other kites drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675

VEGETABLE HEROES

This week’s Vegetable Hero is the mint-but not just any mint, it’s Vietnamese mint, Persicaria odorata.
Summer is a great time to be growing mints of all kinds, but this one is particularly good.
And…..Vietnamese mint isn’t actually a mint, nor is it in the mint family-Lamiaceae but in a family called Polygonaceae which is the same for buckwheat and rhubarb.

In botany, mint is the common name for any of the various herbaceous plants that have a botanical name starting with Mentha, in the mint family Lamiaceae. 

These mints have wide-spreading, underground rhizomes; erect, square, branched stems; and pairs of oppositely arranged leaves; and small, tubular flowers arranged in clusters. 

Only the members of Mentha are known as the "true mints."

Vietnamese mint photo M Cannon

Some plants in use mint in their common name but aren’t true mints, 
Vietnamese mint is one of these. Not a true mint and again, not even in the mint family. 

Persicaria odorata  where odorata simply means fragrant which this plant is'
This so called mint is a herb that’s used a lot in Asian cuisine, and funnily enough, it grows easily, much like other mints.

The leaves are used fresh in salads, soups and stews.
In Singapore, the shredded leaf is an essential ingredient in laksa, a spicy soup.
Here’s a funny fact-did you know that some Buddhist monks grow Vietnamese mint in their private gardens and eat it often as a helpful step in their celibate life?

Vietnamese mint has an essential oil called kesom oil.
This oil is used a lot in the processed food industry and the cosmetic industry.
 So what does it look like?
It’s a creeping herbaceous perennial that grows up to 30cm with a flavour that is a mix of pepper, mint and lemon.
The leaves are very narrow and angular looking and the stems are jointed much like wandering Jew which is now called Tradescantia.
The old genus name Poly­gonum (English: knot­weed) pointed to way the stem looked, - many joints linked together by slightly bent “knots” or “knees”
The top of the leaf is dark green, with chestnut-coloured dark rounded markings right across the leaf, and the underside is burgundy red or sometimes just plain green. The markings sem to go if it's planted in more dense shade.

Vietnamese Mint photo M Cannon

When it flowers is has flat spikes of light lavender coloured flowers, but I can’t say mine has ever flowered.
In originates in Vietnam where it’s found in the wild in wet and boggy places.
Where it Grows
Vietnamese mint is a perennial plant that grows best in tropical and subtropical zones in warm and damp conditions.

Vietnamese mint has jointed stems. photo M Cannon

However it can grow very well outside in summer in non-tropical parts of Australia.
Vietnamese mint prefers part-sun and well-drained soil. 
For those areas with cool to cold winter, bring your Vietnamese mint indoors or under shelter as you would an indoor plant.
It grows very well in pots but is frost tender.
Tip: If you’re growing them in pots, once Vietnamese gets pot bound, it’ll stop producing leaves giving you a big hint to repot and divide it up.
Vietnamese mint rarely flowers outside the tropics, but it’s the leaves you want to use and not the flowers.
Vietnamese mint is normally fairly low maintenance and is easy to grow, as long as you give it a basic level of basic care.
All you need to do is keep it well watered and cut back to the ground when the leaves become tough to produce more fresh young leaves.
But all gardeners like a challenge even if it the growing conditions aren’t ideal.
In good conditions, it can grow up to 15 to 30 cm.
In summer or when the temperature is too high, it does wilt.
If you know someone with this plant ask for some cuttings from a mature clump.

These mints are so hardy!
They will tolerate any soil conditions and even people stomping on them (by accident of course, or chickens trying to dig the plant up).
They don't need constant fertilising or watering but do like shading from the hottest part of the day.

Try planting Vietnamese mint if you'd like to attract butterflies and bees to your garden for tropical gardens of course.
So what do you do with Vietnamese Mint.
The fresh leaf is used typically in Vietnamese cooking and can be used in place of Coriander in all Asian cooking, soups, salads and fish.
It can also be dried.
You can even make Vietnamese Mint lemonade.
Just place some sugar in the bottom of a large jug.
Add ice, 1 cup of lemon juice, then slices of lemon, a handful of mint and top up with about 2 litres of mineral water.
Very refreshing.
Why is it good for you?
Vietnamese mint contains high levels of Beta-carotene and vitamin E:
Also has high levels of folic acid, iron and calcium.
Mint leaves also have useful healing properties.
Mints can freshen breath, soothe the stomach and reduce inflammation. Mint leaves are not as potent as concentrated mint oil, but they still have many of the same health benefits.
AND THAT WAS OUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

DESIGN ELEMENTS

Hail Damage is slight on these Bromeliads photo Peter Nixon

This garden series with Garden Designer Peter Nixon, is all about garden challenges thrown at us mostly by nature but also due to a situation in your garden that you might need to fix.
Over the next few weeks we’ll be covering hail damage, sun scorch, garden loopers, and a few other odds and sods that aren’t necessarily damage but a garden challenge all the same.
Let’s kick off the series with the first challenge.
Hail damage on Alcantarea photo Peter Nixon

 I'm talking with Peter Nixon, garden designer



Summer hail storms can be especially discouraging to gardeners since they always seem to hit just as your plants are starting to look promising.
Even small 'pea sized' hail can severely damage crops and gardens because they hit the plants with so much force.

There are ways to help your garden recover even if leaves are shredded and stems are broken on your favourite fruit and vegetables, or ornamental plants.
Give your plants a week to show recovery.
But if they're continuing to wilt, go ahead and dig them up.



Shredded Alcantareas photo Peter Nixon

Bromeliads- don't rush out there with the secateurs to cut off the damaged and split leaves. Let the plant recover for a short time, preferable until new pups turn up then you can cut off the damaged leaves.

If you have any questions about hail damage in your garden, write in and let us know what happened our email address, or just post it to realworldgardener@gmail.com

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Alstroemeria Hybrids
The flowers of this next plant (Alstroemeria) is symbolic of wealth, prosperity and fortune.
It’s also the flower of friendship.
Some of the flowers of these new varieties of Peruvian lilies almost look like orchid flowers with an amazing variation in colour, and flecking.
Let’s find out more.

Alstroemeria "Inca"  photo M Cannon

I'm talking with the Plant Panel: Karen Smith www.hortjournal.com.au and Jeremy Critchley owner of www.thegreengallery.com.au

In Australia there are two types of Alstroemeria.
There are those that grow tall and flop all over the place.
These tall ones grow quite rampant and have some have become quite weedy.
You'll find them in older neglected gardens.
The best ones to grow are the dwarf varieties of Alstroemerias such asPrincess Lilies and Inca.
About ten years ago Könst Alstroemeria in Germany, started to develop  low growing garden varieties.
In the beginning it were taller varieties that reached up to 50-60 cm in the garden, but the last couple of years the new varieties have become shorter with more or bigger flowers.
Very suitable as balcony or terrace plants on pots.

Alstroemeria or Peruvian Lilies  photo M Cannon

If treated well Inca alstroemeria varieties can flower from November to April!

These plants are really compact and make a neat mound over a pot but the best thing is that they flower continuously from spring to late autumn

 I have some flowering in pots on stone steps in the garden.
In winter I move them into a sunny spot but in summer they don’t like being blasted by the hot summer sun, so I move them to the other side of the stone steps, where it’s shaded by a building.
There’s no reason why they can’t be grown along a border instead of having annuals.
There spread fairly slowly and I would say that the height of this plant is about 25  - 30 cm and about 40 cms wide in a garden
They actually like good even when not in flowers as Princess Lilies make  a strong neat compact mound of leaves.
Alstroemeria are great as a cut flower lasting 2 weeks in the vase.
Sometimes also called Lily of the Incas or Parrot Lily Alstroemeria is a South American genus of about 50 species of flowering plants, mainly from the cool, mountainous regions in the Andes
Something we didn’t mention is that Alstroemeria is named after the Swedish botanist Klaus von Alstroemer, who was a pupil of the great botanical classifier Linnaeus. If you have any questions about growing Alstroemeria or have some information to share, why not write in to realworldgardener@gmail.com