Gardens to Grow and to Visit

A new series in design elements, dig plant and grow for all types of gardeners; Something that grows in the dark in Vegetable Heroes what’s a national historical garden society conference all about, and native winter flowers in Plant of the Week

DESIGN ELEMENTS

Dig, Plant, Grow

A lot of people from all ages, would like to start gardening but don't know where to begin

This new series called ‘dig, plant, grow’ is all about starting a garden either from scratch or perhaps you’ve inherited a garden and want to know what to do.

In either case you’ll be doing some digging.

My own garden in the rain: photo M Cannon

Let’s find out how to start.
I'm talking with Glenice Buck of Glenice Buck Designs
www.glenicebuckdesigns.com.au

• Glenice suggests digging a BIG hole!
• Yep, 50cm deep if you can go that far without hitting bedrock. Not  for the faint hearted. 
• this gives you an idea of what soil layers and textures you have.
  
• Add a bucket of water to the hole to see how fast it drains away. This is testing the drainage of your soil.
• You can't change climate, aspect, soil texture and drainage of your soil, but it pays to know what you're dealing with.

Glenice runs her workshops in Young, however there are similar workshops in all capitals and regional centres. Check out your local newspaper for more information.
For example, Sydney Community College runs a workshop which covers those topics called Small Space Gardening, which I run. It’s on a Monday evening.
For all the latest news - Follow Glenice on Facebook or Instagram
Facebook : www.facebook/glenicebuckdesigns
Instagram: Glenice_Buck_Designs
Or check out the website: www.glenicebuckdesigns.com.au
Or Subscribe to the monthly Garden Greetings Newsletter: www.tinyletter.com/glenicebuckdesigns

VEGETABLE HEROES

What are microgreens?

Microgreens are very young edible greens from vegetables, herbs or other plants.

It has to be said, growing microgreens is the speediest way to growing leafy greens because you’ll be cutting them in 1-2 weeks.

Plus, they add packets of flavour to salads of larger leaves and the best part, it couldn’t be any easier.

You can grow them indoors all year round, you don’t even need a sunny windowsill.

Micro greens grow to about 2 ½  to 4 cm long, including the stem and leaves.

• So what is a  microgreen?

It’s a plant that has a single central stem which has been cut just above the soil line during harvesting.

The first leaves that come out from any plant are called cotyledon leaves and usually one pair of very small, partially developed true leaves.

So, leaf and stem are never bigger than 4cm in height and 2 ½ cm across.

• Microgreens even though they’re really small have intense flavours but not as strong it would’ve been if the plant was left to grow to full size.

Usually I start talking about the history of the vegetable or fruit at this point.

There’s not much history at all about micro greens.

Maybe they started off as a fad in the 1990’s who knows?

They seem to be catching on more and more, because you can get seeds marketed as micro greens from major chain stores that have a gardening section.

How about greens, like all types of lettuce, Basil, Beets, Coriander and Kale that are harvested with scissors when they’re really, really, small?

• So what’s the difference between microgreens and sprouts?

Microgreens are not at all like sprouts, but grown in a similar way and picked or more correctly, cut at a later stage of growth.

Sprouts are only the germinated seed, root stem and underdeveloped leaves.

Microgreens are the mini-versions of the much larger green vegetable.

Sprouts are also grown entirely in water and not actually planted.

Microgreens are mostly planted in soil or a soil alternative like sphagnum moss, or coco peat.

Although you can grow your microgreens on a special tray with water underneath.

Plus you grow microgreens in light conditions with plenty of air circulation and not in a jar.

You might be wondering why you’d want that?

What’s wrong with growing salad vegetables in the garden?

This might be more for the busy gardener who’s run out of space or time available to grow a full garden of vegetables.

So how do you grow Micro greens?

There are a couple of ways to grow Microgreens.

The first method is to grow your greens in soil like organic, potting mix, cocopeat, vermiculite, sieved compost or worm castings.

Use seedling trays or boxes and fill the tray with your selected soil mix 2 - 3 cm deep and moisten the mix.

Soak the seed overnight then sprinkle the seeds evenly on top of the mix and gently pat them down; then cover with 0.5 cm of mix.

Cover the tray with a lid or another inverted tray to help keep the seeds moist until they sprout.

Then water often using a sprayer.

Adding diluted organic nutrients e.g. kelp or compost tea to the sprayer will improve the nutrient levels in the microgreens.

Microgreens are usually harvested when there are four or more leaves. Cut the shoots just above ground level with scissors.

TIP:Many types of vegetable seeds as micro greens and will regrow and can be cut several times.

Afterwards the tray contents can be added to the compost heap.

• The second way of growing your microgreens is using something called a Growing Tray. 
• This tray holds a reservoir of water and has holes in it so the plants can grow their roots down into the water.

Microgreens growing in a tray: photo M Cannon

You don’t even need soil, just a spray bottle of water and the seeds.

• But you do need to remember to spray the seed, 2-3 times a day until the roots develop, then keep water reservoir topped up with fresh water until harvest a couple weeks later!

You can buy them in stores or via mail order and online.

Microgreens seed packet range includes 5 mixed packets, each containing 3 varieties typical to a regional cuisine:

Flavours of the Mediterranean - Basil Italian Mix, Rocket and Sunflower

Flavours of France - Sorrel, Chervil and Sunflower

Flavours of Western Europe - Cress, Amaranth Red Garnet and Pea Morgan

Favours of Eastern Europe - Kale Pink, Cabbage Red and Pea Morgan

Flavours of the Orient - Mustard Ruby Streaks, Garland Chrysanthemum and Coriander

TIP: One thing to keep in mind, the seeds used to grow microgreens are the same seeds that are used for full sized herbs, vegetables and greens.

So, If you want to use up that packet of Cabbage, Celery, Chard, Chervil, Coriander, Cress, Fennel, Kale, Mustard, Parsley, Radish and Sorrel, rather than throwing it out. Grow the seeds as microgreens.

TIP:Never use parsnips for micro greens as seedlings they’re apparently poisonous!

Coriander seed takes longer to germinate than other micro greens – up to three weeks.

Coriander takes longer because partly due to the tough outer coating of the seeds, preventing water from penetrating.

You need to break the seed coat to give it a hurry up by crush the seeds lightly then soak overnight to speed up germination and improve success.

Why are they good for You?

Just because they’re mini greens doesn’t mean they have a high concentration of nutrients or even a miracle food. No such luck.

So they have proportionally smaller amounts of the same nutrients that the full sized vegetable that they would’ve been has.

They are eaten as thin, delicate plants - as miniature variations on salad greens and herbs. They provide texture and colour when used as garnish, or exciting flavours when used as part of salad mixes

If you have any questions about growing microgreens or where to buy the seeds for sowing, just drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com, parsley, tarragon and winter savoury.

THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO FOR TODAY

GARDEN HISTORY

National Conference

If you’ve never been to NZ, then perhaps you could tag along to the Australia Garden History Society’s 40th National Conference which is being held in Wellington.
But what happens at a National Conference and why should you go?
I'm talking with Stuart Read, committee member of the Australian Garden History Society.
Let’s find out..

Going to the conference?

Greenhaugh Garden New Zealand

Register at www.gardenhistorysociety.org.au to book for the conference.
There’s also a post conference tour alternative of the South Island.
The tour begins in Christchurch and ends in Queenstown.
If you have any questions for me or for Stuart write in to realworldgardener@gmail.com

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Banksia spinulosa

This next plant is a native but is often overlooked because people go for the more colourful and show Grevilleas.
They may come in limited colourways, but their flowers are much more substantial and spectacular, particular if you have several cultivars planted or grouped together.
Plus they provide nectar for wildlife during the colder months of the year.
Let’s find out about them
I'm talking with Jeremy Critchley owner of www.thegreengallery.com.au and Karen Smith editor of www.hortjournal.com.au

Banksia spinulosa

As cut flowers, Banksias can last for months.

Dive into Garden History, Little Pea Shoots, and Medicinal Calendula

What’s On The Show Today?

What some directors of Botanic gardens got up to in the Garden History segment, grow something that’s super quick and super easy in Vegetable Heroes, and a plant that covers the ground in part shade, plus a flower for the medicinal garden in Talking Flowers.

GARDEN HISTORY

William Guilfoyle
How’s your garden history knowledge?
You may have heard of Gertrude Jekyll, an Australian Garden Designer of some note, but have you heard of William Guillfoyle?

Melbourne Botanic Gardens' Volcano planting photo : Stuart Read

Possibly not, but this next segment is about to change all that.
Why are we talking about William Guillfoyle?
Because first and foremost, he had a lot to do with making Melbourne Botanic gardens the beautiful space it is today.
Let’s find out some history
I'm talking withStuart Read committee member of the Australian Garden History Society.


William Guillfoyle was not a botanist, but a horticulturalist, so had a different view of how a botanic garden should be presented to the public.

He came from a family of nurserymen/women and first worked in his parents' famous " Exotic" nursery in Double Bay.

Melbourne Botanic gardens volcano planting photo : Stuart Read

The Exotic nursery was one of the major nurseries in Sydney from the 1840's and imported thousands of Fuchsias, conifers, and ferns

. Plus it also had collections of Australian plants grown from seed collected on expeditions.
Guillfoyle was Director of Melbourne Botanic Gardens from 1873 - 1910
Plus, William was responsible for making available all those Jacaranda seedlings which now make Sydney and many regional centres so popular with Jacaranda tours in November.

If you have any questions either for me or Sotuart, you can email us Realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2rrr, PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

VEGETABLE HEROES

Growing Small Stuff: Microgreens

Growing peas as microgreens, or shoots.

Peas are of course Pisum sativum scientifically speaking.

You might think that growing sprouts or shoots which have be re—branded as Microgreens is a relatively modern invention.
If you did, then you’d be wrong because medicinally and nutritionally, sprouts have a long history.

Did you know that Ancient Chinese physicians recognized and prescribed sprouts for curing many disorders over 5,000 years ago?

But though accounts of sprouting appear in the Bible in the Book of Daniel, it took centuries for the West to fully realize its nutrition merits.

In the 1700's, sailors were riddled by scurvy which is of course caused by a lack of Vitamin C.
Because of scurvy sailors suffered heavy casualties during their two to three year voyages.
From 1772-1775, Captain James Cook had his sailors eat limes, lemons and varieties of sprouts; which has heaps of Vitamin C.
These plus other fresh fruits and vegetables and a continuous program of growing and eating sprouts were credited with the breakthrough, thus solving the mariners' greatest casualty problem.

We obviously don’t have problems with scurvy now so why should we grow Pea Sprouts or Pea shoots as some people call them?

• Pea sprouts/shoots or microgreens are great for small spaces – they grow fast, taste delicious and are rich in Vitamin C, A and protein. 
• They’re easy to grow, they’re also perfect to try if you’re starting out. 
• Seeing (and eating!) the fruits of your labour in just in two or three weeks is rewarding and motivating. 
• Plus, pea shoots are a good choice for a shady spaces or to grow inside over winter – just sow a stray or two and keep near a bright window. 

So How Do You grow pea sprouts? 

The Water Method

• Start with a tray that has a water reservoir and a sort of mesh or grate above it.
• Fill the reservoir with water.
• Place some moistened paper towel over the mesh or grate section.
• Place your soaked pea seeds very close together; no more than a pea's distance apart.
• Place near a sunny windowsill.
• Keep the reservoir topped up.
• Mist daily.
• Sow your microgreen seeds.
• In a few weeks you'll have microgreens sprouting everywhere.

The Soil Method

• Firstly, soak the peas in water for 24 hours (dried peas sold for cooking will normally grow fine and are much cheaper than buying seed packets). 
• Soaking the peas in water for 24 hours isn’t essential – but it helps to speed up the process of germination and they should double in size. 
• Secondly, Select a container 6-9 cm deep. 
• An old tray or Styrofoam box from a market stall will do fine – just make sure it has holes in the bottom to allow water to drain out. 
• The trays sold in gardening stores for seed growing are about the right size, too. 
• Next Fill your container with compost or potting mix, about1 cm deep to 1 ½ cm below the top. 
• It’s always a good idea to use the best quality potting mix you can find – but having said that, pea shoots are pretty unfussy – and almost any mix seems to be OK. 
• After that, water the mix then sow the seeds on top of it. 
• If you want to use worm castings, never put more than 20% or 1/5 casting with the mix because you don’t want to burn your new shoots. 
• You can sow them very closer together – I try to leave a gap the size of a pea between each seed. 
• If you wanted to grow full sized pea plants, you’d sow the seeds further apart. 
• But as we’re only growing shoots, we can get away with close spacing 
• Cover with seed raising mix or potting mix– about the thickness of a pea. 
• Then finally water the surface lightly again. 
• TIP: if you’re using cheap potting mix, add some vermiculite to increase the water holding capacity and water your sprouts with a seaweed solution every time you water. 
• That’s it! All you need to do now is keep soil is moist – check it everyday for the next 7 – 10 days using the thumb test. 
• Use your thumb to press against the top of the soil. 
• If your thumb comes off clean and dry, water the peas. 
• If your thumb comes off even slightly moist or with a little soil, you’re good until tomorrow. 
• Another test is to lift the tray. 
• As you gain experience with growing sprouts and shoots in the container, you’ll get to know how heavy or light the tray is. 
• Light trays means it probably needs water. 
• If you are growing on a windowsill, or where there you have light coming in from just one side, you will want to rotate the trays so that the shoots will get sunlight more evenly. 
• In two to three weeks (a bit longer in cold weather) your crop will have grown 7 – 10 cm tall. 

THAT WAS QUICK BECAUSE YOUR CROP IS NOW READY TO EAT!
All you need to do now is pinch off each shoot just above the bottom leaves. Some of the pea shoots will regrow again giving you a second harvest.
You don’t have to eat them all at once but instead store harvested pea shoots or sprouts in resealable bags in the fridge until you are ready to eat.
TIP: don’t wash the pea shoots until ready to cook with them.
The extra water from washing will deteriorate the pea shoots faster.
Keep the shoots dry and the pea shoots should stay fresh for over 2 weeks!
If you find that there is moisture in the bag, take a single paper towel, and place it in the bag.

What next?
When the crop has finished, put the roots in your worm farm or compost heap if you have one. Worms seem to like them very much!

Why are they good for You?
Pea Shoots are a nutritious leaf with high levels of vitamin C and vitamin A.
A 50g bag of these tasty greens offers more than half of the RDA for vitamin C, a quarter of the RDA for vitamin A and significant amounts of folic acid plus Calcium, Iron and Phosphorus.
But wait there’s more, they also contain amino acids and they’re quick to prepare providing a tasty and convenient way to help people achieve their ‘5 serves of veg a day’ – especially as they are ideal partners for other vegetables whether served hot or as part of a mixed salad.
THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO FOR TODAY

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Ajuga reptans " Ruby Glow"

Carpet Bugle

Do you want a ground cover that suits shade, still flowers and provides plenty of colour?
William Turner, a 16th century physician and naturalist described it as ‘It is a blacke herbe and it groweth in shaddowy places and moyst groundes.’-

This can only be Ajuga reptans.

I'm talking with Jeremy Critchley owner of www.thegreengallery.com.au and Karen Smith editor of www.hortjournal.com.au
Let’s find more about it

Not only does Carpet Bugle cope with shade but it copes with sun as long as it gets sufficient watering.

It's great as a weed suppressing ground cover because it tightly hugs the ground and creeps along very lightly to form a dense cover.

If you want extra plants, simply divide the plants in Autumn and either pot up straight away or place in another garden location.
Nobody knows why it’s really called Bugle flower , it’s one of botany’s mysterys.
If you have a question either for me or the plant panel why not drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675

TALKING FLOWERS

Calendula officinalis: Pot Marigold

Calendula derives from the Latin calendas, 
The reason is possibly because the plant flowers every month even in winter where temperatures aren’t too low.

The petals are edible and can be used fresh in salads or dried and used to colour cheese or as a replacement for saffron.

A yellow dye has been extracted from the flowers

You can toss them into a salad or soup; the taste is tangy and the bright colour enhances food.

Growing Calendula

Sow direct or in pots after the last frost has passed.

Companion Planting

Calendula repels a number of bad nematodes in the soil, but may attract slugs. 
Plant with tomatoes and asparagus.

Where will it grow?

Calendula grows best when sown directly into the garden. It tolerates any type of soil and will grow in partial shade to full sun.

Calendulas will do well in almost any soil, and semi-shade as well.

Calendula takes well to pot culture, and is easily grown in a variety of pots and window boxes on a balcony or deck.
I'm talking with florist, Mercedes Sarmini of www.flowersbymercedes.com.au

Video record live during broadcast of Real World Gardener show on 2rrr 88.5 fm in Sydney, Wednesdays 5pm.