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Showing posts with label growing Okra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label growing Okra. Show all posts

Saturday, 17 November 2018

Burning, Searing, Scalding Flowers are Just One Feature

What’s on the show today?

Art Therapy with Mara Lyon is today’s feature interview. What vegetable, was used to thicken soups and stews, and the seeds were toasted and ground then used as a coffee substitute in Vegetable Heroes; , plus a tough native plant with a strange past in Plant of the Week and more floral happenings in Talking Flowers segment with Mercedes

FEATURE INTERVIEW

Art Therapy in the Garden:Create Your Own Mandala
Are you taking enough time out in your life or is your day crowded with a to do list?
To do lists, whether written down or just in our mind’s eye, can make life seem overly busy without time taken to just sit and reflect.
Maybe we need to be re-connected with that quieter, calmer side of life.
I'm talking with Mara Lyone who is an art therapist.

LIVE :Art Therapy in the Garden

I first met Mara at a workshop nearby in Bedlam Bay, Gladesville, NSW
It was a day where there were quite a few stalls about healing and the mind, but what struck me was a mandala made out of plant material on the ground.
We talked about what is a mandala and how we would use it. 


Gardeners often crowd their mind with things that need to be done in the garden without taking stock of what’s there.
Mainly because often there is so much to do in the garden especially during the warmer months of the year.
Everyone’s talking about mindfulness but how can gardeners learn to appreciate more the “beauty in the moment. And not focus on what they see as failures in the garden?”
Pebble sculptures, beds of annuals, sculpted box balls in a knot garden are living expressions of art therapy?

In planting, if you use secondary colours together, such as purple and orange or orange and green, or green and purple, they make wonderful combinations. Each of them creates a particular mood: purple and orange have red hidden in them, so there’s a great deal of warmth and energy in that.
Gardening meets needs if you want to be a sculptor, or painter.
And really, gardening to be the greatest healer of all.
If you have any questions, either for me or for Mara why not email realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

VEGETABLE HEROES

Okra: Okra is also known as Lady’s fingers.
OKRA the way to pronounce is "Oh krah" not "Aukra"
Okra is in the Malvaceae or Mallow family and called Abelmoschus esculentus. (A-bell-mow- shus es-kew-lent-us)
It used to be called Hibiscus esculentus so that may you give you a clue as to what the bush might look like.
Okra flower and fruit

Did you know that Okra is related to cotton, cocoa, hibiscus and Rosella plants?
"Okra probably originated somewhere around Ethiopia  and Okra is found growing wild on the banks of the river Nile.
According to records, the Egyptians were the first to grow it as a veggie it in the basin of the Nile during 12th century BC .
And as Okra made its way to North Africa and the Middle East, more uses were developed.
Not only were the seed pods eaten cooked, the seeds were toasted and ground, and used as a coffee substitute (and still is).
 Another amazing fact is that in the 1800's slaves from Africa used ground okra as a part of their diet, and this apparently led to the use of ground okra seeds as a coffee substitute by other southerners during the American Civil War blockades of the 1860's.
You might have also heard of a dish called gumbo. This comes from using Okra or gumbo as a thickener especially in soups.
So what does the Okra bush look like?
Okra varies in height from 60cm to 2m high depending on the variety of seed you buy.
 The leaves are heart shaped with plenty of yellow hibiscus-like flowers with a maroon throat.
In case you don’t know Hibiscus flowers, think of Hawaiian or Tahitian girls with flowers in their hair. Might also be a Hibiscus or a Frangipani.
 As you know, after the flowers comes the fruit that looks like a five-ribbed small pod with a cap on it, sort of like a gumnut cap.

Much smaller than beans or cucumbers.
Pick these a week after the flowers emerge because the Okra, gets too tough and stringy after that.
I’m told the leaves can be used as Spinach.
Doubly useful.
When to sow.
  • In sub-tropical districts, you can plant them in August and September and then again January and February.
  • In temperate climates, sow seeds in October through to December,
  • Arid areas have between August and December to sow seeds directly into the soil.
  •  Cool temperate districts, including Tasmania, for you, the advice is to grow them in a greenhouse, but I discovered a blog from Adam whose from a cool mountain climate and Adam says “Okra does indeed grow in the cool areas, it just needs a bit of help to establish.
  • Adam puts an old plastic milk bottle over the plant until it fills the bottle, then away it goes.
  • Just pick the warmest part of your garden.
  • You’ll get a small crop if you have a cold Summer, but should have heaps if the summer is warmer. Thanks Adam!.
  • Finally for Tropical districts, you’ve won the jackpot this week, because you can grow Okra all year round!

Growing Okra
Okra seeds germinate reasonably well, but will be helped along if you soak them in a shallow dish of tepid water for 24hours.
This will soften the hard outer seed coat.
Pick a spot that gets full sun and has plenty of compost dug into the soil.
One thing that Okra detests, and that’s wet, boggy soil or soil with poor drainage.
Okra will also be set back if you get a cold snap in your district.
Either sow the seeds directly or into punnets for later transplanting.
I have heard that they don’t like being transplanted that much so you could try sowing them in pots made of coir, or make them yourself from newspaper or toilet rolls.
A very permaculture thing to do.
Because they grow as a largish bush, space the seeds or seedlings if transplanting, about 50cm to a metre apart.
Water your Okra fairly regularly, and if your soil is too hard or clayey, grow some Okra in a pot no problem.
TIP:By the way, Okra are partial to high amounts of Potash.
During the growing period, water in lots of liquid fertiliser, such as worm tea and add handfuls of compost.
Okra flower: looks just like other members of the Hibiscus family
Tip pruning will also give you a bushier plant with more flowers and more Okra pods.
In warm areas of Australia, your Okra will be ready to pick in 10 weeks.
In cold temperate zones however, it may take as long as 16 weeks.
Pick your Okra when they’re small and certainly before they get bigger than 10cm in length. Around 5 – 10 cm length is best.
Tip: Okra pods are referred to as mucilaginous.
What does that meant? Ughhhh! This can make them a bit slimy in cooking, so if that bothers you, don’t slice them, keep them whole.
Alternatively, add a couple of drops of vinegar or lemon juice.
I’ve also read that you should avoid growing Okra where you’ve had tomatoes, capsicums or potatoes growing previously.
Okra sliced to reveal mucilaginous membranes
For different varieties of Okra, go to www.4seasonsseeds.com.au
Two varieties I found online in Australia, are Okra Clemson Spineless, a bush that grows to 1 ½ m and Okra red Burgundy. Red Burgundy has red pods on a vigorous 1.5m tall plant with green leaves and attractive bright cherry red stems.
I’ll put a link to this site on my website. You can get many rare and hard to find seeds at this company. Well priced too.
Why are they good for you?
Okra contains lots of valuable nutrients, almost half of which is in the form of soluble fibre, which helps lower serum cholesterol.
A half of a cup of okra contains about 10% of the recommended levels of B6 and folic acid.
By the way, Okra has black seeds inside the pod. Don’t feel you have to remove them because you don’t. The seeds add flavour to the cooking.
The fibre is in that mucilage.
How about trying a mix with peppers and eggplant! Or grill it on the BBQ! :) try it !! grill it on its side for 2 minutes each!its yummy!!!!
AND THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Scaevola aemula: Fair Fan Flower

Drought tolerant, salt tolerant, pretty flowers and no real maintenance.
Wouldn’t that be good if most of our plants were like that?
Never mind, even if we put some of these plants amongst the ones that aren’t so hardy, we’ll still have a show of colour and foliage when those others fade away.
With those sort of credentials -let’s find out about this plant.

I'm talking with Karen Smith, editor of www.hortjournal.com.au

PLAY: Scaevola_5th November_2014

That burnt hand story I’ve discovered was slightly off with the facts.
The latin word scaevola has a link to a Mucius Scaevola which was a lineage of patricians during the Roman Republic.
It was an offshoot of the Mucian family started by Gaius Mucius Scaevola.
This Gaius Scaevola was a legendary assassin who burnt away his right hand as a show of bravery during the early years of the Republic.
Not saint at all then.
Latin: scaevola, "left-handed.

If you have any questions about growing Scaevola or fairy fan flower why not write in to realworldgardener@gmail.com

TALKING FLOWERS

Drown, Sear, Scald & Mist Cut Flowers
These are all the methods we can use to not only make the flowers last longer in the vase, but to also make them look a whole lot better.
  • Some plants with soft stems and heavy flower head, such as tulips and gerberas, are prone to bending. If left, the stem will remain in this position. To straighten the stems, wrap the bunch flowers in newspaper and stand them deeply in water for at least two hours – ideally over night.
  • Others need to have their stems scalded in boiling hot water for a few seconds to prolong their vase life. These include roses, hydrangeas, poppies and sunflowers. Always protect the petals from the steam.

  • Misting helps the vase life of most orchids as well as camellias, bird of paradise and violets.
  • Drowning in a bucket of water for several hours gives hydrangeas, roses, heliconias, christmas bush and viburnum flowers to go the distance.
I'm talking with Mercedes Sarmini of www.flowersbymercedes.com.au

Recorded live during the broadcast of Real World Gardener radio show on 2RRR 88.5 fm Sydney

Saturday, 19 November 2016

A House, A Garden, and Luscious Scented Plants.

BOOK REVIEW

The House and Garden at Glenmore :author Mickey Robertson.

Imagine a ramshackle set of buildings dating back to the 1850’s set way out on the outskirts of a big city.
No garden, but plenty of land.

Imagine also your partner or husband coming home and telling you that he’s just bought such a property.
What would you do?





Let’s find out ..'[m speaking with author of The House and Garden at Glenmore Robertson
Glenmore House was once a dairy farm and when Mickey's husband came across it 28 years ago, it was a collection of once dilapidated buildings.
These buildings took time to restore and in the book, Mickey describes the long process.
Mickey wrote the book in 1 month, working every day fro 10 hours.
Being an inveterate compiler of lists she was able to draw on them for the names of plant material and order of things.


Ideas for the garden came from notable famous gardens like Sissinghurst in England but the garden isn't entirely English.


 











Not only does Mickey provide heaps of plant information in this book but there are gardening tips along with 30 seasonal recipes, including that recipe for cumquat Ice-cream.
Next time there’s an open day at Glenmore, we should make an effort to go and visit. You won’t be disappointed.
You can catch up that segment by listening to the podcast www.realworldgardener.com
If you have any questions Glenmore house, drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW
1675.

VEGETABLE HEROES

OKRA Abelmoschus esculentus
The answer to the question What vegetable, was used to thicken soups and stews, and the seeds were toasted and ground then used as a coffee substitute? 
OKRA the way to pronounce is "Oh krah" not "Aukra"
Okra is also known as Lady’s fingers.
Okra is in the Malvaceae or Mallow family and called
Abelmoschus esculentus. (A-bell-mow- shus es-kew-lent-us)
It used to be called Hibiscus esculentus so that may you give you a clue as to what the bush might look like.
Did you know that Okra is related to cotton, cocoa, hibiscus and Rosella plants?
"Okra probably originated somewhere around Ethiopia  and Okra is found growing wild on the banks of the river Nile.
According to records, the Egyptians were the first to grow it as a veggie it in the basin of the Nile during 12th century BC .
And as Okra made its way to North Africa and the Middle East, more uses were developed.
Not only were the seed pods eaten cooked, the seeds were toasted and ground, and used as a coffee substitute (and still is).
You might have also heard of a dish called gumbo. This comes from using Okra or gumbo as a thickener especially in soups.
So what does the Okra bush look like?
Okra varies in height from 60cm to 2m high depending on the variety of seed you buy.
 The leaves are heart shaped with plenty of yellow hibiscus-like flowers with a maroon throat.
In case you don’t know Hibiscus flowers, think of Hawaiian or Tahitian girls with flowers in their hair. Might also be a Hibiscus or a Frangipani.
 As you know, after the flowers comes the fruit that looks like a five-ribbed small pod with a cap on it, sort of like a gumnut cap.
Much smaller than beans or cucumbers.
Pick these a week after the flowers emerge because the Okra, gets too tough and stringy after that.
I’m told the leaves can be used as Spinach.
Doubly useful.
When to sow.
So when do you grow it?
In sub-tropical districts, you can plant them in August and September and then again January and February.
In temperate climates, sow seeds in October through to December,
Arid areas have between August and December to sow seeds directly into the soil.
 Cool temperate districts, including Tasmania, for you, the advice is to grow them in a greenhouse, but I discovered a blog from Adam whose from a cool mountain climate and Adam says “Okra does indeed grow in the cool areas, it just needs a bit of help to establish.
Adam puts an old plastic milk bottle over the plant until it fills the bottle, then away it goes.
Just pick the warmest part of your garden.
You’ll get a small crop if you have a cold Summer, but should have heaps if the summer is warmer. Thanks Adam!.
Finally for Tropical districts, you’ve won the jackpot this week, because you can grow Okra all year round!
Growing Okra
Okra seeds germinate reasonably well, but will be helped along if you soak them in a shallow dish of tepid water for 24hours.
This will soften the hard outer seed coat.
Pick a spot that gets full sun and has plenty of compost dug into the soil.
One thing that Okra detests, and that’s wet, boggy soil or soil with poor drainage.
Okra will also be set back if you get a cold snap in your district.
Either sow the seeds directly or into punnets for later transplanting.
I have heard that they don’t like being transplanted that much so you could try sowing them in pots made of coir, or make them yourself from newspaper or toilet rolls.
A very permaculture thing to do.
Because they grow as a largish bush, space the seeds or seedlings if transplanting, about 50cm to a metre apart.
Water your Okra fairly regularly, and if your soil is too hard or clayey, grow some Okra in a pot no problem.
TIP:By the way, Okra are partial to high amounts of Potash.
During the growing period, water in lots of liquid fertiliser, such as worm tea and add handfuls of compost.
Tip pruning will also give you a bushier plant with more flowers and more Okra pods.
In warm areas of Australia, your Okra will be ready to pick in 10 weeks.
In cold temperate zones however, it may take as long as 16 weeks.
Pick your Okra when they’re small and certainly before they get bigger than 10cm in length. Around 5 – 10 cm length is best.
Tip: Okra pods are referred to as mucilaginous.
What does that meant? Ughhhh! This can make them a bit slimy in cooking, so if that bothers you, don’t slice them, keep them whole.
Alternatively, add a couple of drops of vinegar or lemon juice.
I’ve also read that you should avoid growing Okra where you’ve had tomatoes, capsicums or potatoes growing previously.
For different varieties of Okra, go to www.4seasonsseeds.com.au
Two varieties I found online in Australia, are Okra Clemson Spineless, a bush that grows to 1 ½ m and Okra red Burgundy. Red Burgundy has red pods on a vigorous 1.5m tall plant with green leaves and attractive bright cherry red stems.
I’ll put a link to this site on my website. You can get many rare and hard to find seeds at this company. Well priced too.
Why are they good for you?
Okra contains lots of valuable nutrients, almost half of which is in the form of soluble fibre.
A half of a cup of okra contains about 10% of the recommended levels of B6 and folic acid.
By the way, Okra has black seeds inside the pod. Don’t feel you have to remove them because you don’t. The seeds add flavour to the cooking.
The fibre is in that mucilage.
How about trying a mix with peppers and eggplant! Or grill it on the BBQ! :) try it !! grill it on its side for 2 minutes each!its yummy!!!!

AND THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY


DESIGN ELEMENTS

Scented Bulbs for Your Garden
Earlier this year Garden Designer Peter Nixon started a series on scent for your garden.
We now take it up again with a focus on scented bulbs.

So many plants are lovely, with beautiful blooms, but only a smaller section of these also include a wonderful fragrance.
When it comes to bulbs you probably know hyacinths and peonies and paperwhites as fragrant choices - but did you know there are bearded iris, daffodils, hostas and even tulip varieties with a luscious scent?
Let’s find out more. I'm talking with
Peter Nixon, garden designer and project Manager of Paradisus Garden Design. www.paradisusgl.peternixon.com.au
So many gardens are planted without a thought to scent – perhaps because there has been such a shift to perennials, which are the least-scented group of plants.
They’re missing the third dimension – fragrance puts the whole garden onto another level.

Why not grow all of these plants so that you can turn your garden in to a perfumed paradise all year round.
You can hear that segment again on the website www.realworldgardener.com
Sometimes, the first indication that you have that a plant is flowering is from the drifting perfume.
How much nicer to inhale the luscious waves of sweet smelling flowers than the exhaust fumes from our big cities.
Summertime should include the sweet scent of flowers, freshly mown grass or even that undefinable smell of a garden having just been watered.
Don’t hold back, plant more scent in your garden.

PLANT OF THE WEEK

NEW Gazania hybrids
Have you ever seen grey leaved daisy like flowers growing on someone’s nature strip.
They seem to take over the whole path and usually only come in bright colours or yellow and orange.
Showy flowers, which appear throughout the warmer months, are large, brightly coloured, often marked, and the ray florets tend to be darker at the base, with a contrastingly coloured central disc.
The species usually have yellow or orange flowers, but the newer hybrid garden forms are available in a wide colour range
So let’s find out more about the new kids on the block.




I'm talking with the plant panel:Karen Smith, editor of Hort Journal www.hortjournal.com.au  and Jeremy Critchley, The Green Gallery wholesale nursery owner. www.thegreengallery.com.au
 
New Gazania hybrids have doubles and anemone style flowers making them sterile
The clever thing the plant breeders have done is to replace the male parts of the flower with petals.
The flowers is so full of petals that these new Gazanias can't close up at night as the old fashioned singles are wont to do.
Gazania species are grown for the brilliant colour of their flower-heads which appear in the late spring and are often in flower throughout summer into autumn.
They prefer a sunny position and are tolerant of dryness and poor soils so all the more reason to plant some out soon.

Thursday, 1 November 2012

Birdscaping with LadyFingers

REAL WORLD GARDENER Wed. 5pm 2RRR 88.5fm Sydney and Across Australia on the Community Radio Network. www.realworldgardener.com
REALWORLD GARDENER NOW ON FACEBOOK
The complete CRN edition of RWG is available on http://www.cpod.org.au/ , just click on 2RRR to find this week’s edition.
Streaming live at www.2rrr.org.au Wednesdays 5pm

 

Wildlife in Focus

with ecologist Sue Stevens.
Gardens aren’t complete without our wildlife visitors popping in for a snack or a drink. Sometimes we just like the look of them, or it’s their musical song that has us hooked. Yet, there you are toiling away in the garden and all you’re getting is the Common Minor or Indian Myna birds that shoo all the more desirable birds away.If that’s the case, you need to rethink your planting, and here’s some tips…

If you have nice wildlife visitors in your garden, drop the RWG team a line about who they are and what in your garden they’re attracted to? Or, send in a photo, because we’d love to hear from you. realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR po Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675

Vegetable Heroes:

  • Okra plant
  • The answer to the question What vegetable, was used to thicken soups and stews, and the seeds were toasted and ground then used as a coffee substitute? 
  • OKRA the way to pronounce is "Oh krah" not "Aukra"Okra is also known as Lady’s fingers.Okra is in the Malvaceae or Mallow family and called Abelmoschus esculentus.
  • It used to be called Hibiscus esculentus so that may you give you a clue as to what the bush might look like.
  • Okra is related to cotton, cocoa, hibiscus and Rosella plants.
  • So what does the Okra bush look like? Okra varies in height from 60cm to 2m high depending on the variety of seed you buy. 
  • The leaves are heart shaped with plenty of yellow hibiscus-like flowers with a maroon throat. 
  • As you know, after the flowers comes the fruit that can be best described as a five-ribbed small pod. Much smaller than beans or cucumbers.
  • Pick these a week after the flowers emerge because the Okra, gets too tough and stringy after that.
  • I’m told the leaves can be used as Spinach. Doubly useful.
  • In sub-tropical districts, you can plant them in August and September and then again January and February.
  • In temperate climates, sow seeds in October through to December, Arid areas have between August and December to sow seeds directly into the soil. 
  • Cool temperate for you, the advice is to grow them in a greenhouse, but I discovered a blog from Adam whose from a cool mountain climate and Adam says “Okra does indeed grow in the cool areas, it just needs a bit of help to establish. Adam puts an old plastic milk bottle over the plant until it fills the bottle, then away it goes. Just pick the warmest part of your garden. You will get a small crop if you have a cold Summer, but should have heaps is the summer is warmer. Thanks Adam!.
  • Finally for Tropical districts, you’ve won the jackpot this week, because you can grow Okra all year round!
  • Okra seeds germinate reasonably well, but will be helped along if you soak them in a shallow dish of tepid water for 24hours.This will soften the hard outer seed coat.
  • Pick a spot that gets full sun and has plenty of compost dug into the soil.
  • One thing that Okra detests, and that’s wet, boggy soil or soil with poor drainage.
  • Okra will also be set back if you get a cold snap in your district.
  • Either sow the seeds directly or into punnets for later transplanting. I have heard that they don’t like being transplanted that much so you could try sowing them in pots made of coir, or make them yourself from newspaper or toilet rolls. A very permaculture thing to do.
  • Because they grow as a largish bush, space the seeds or seedlings if transplanting, about 50cm to a metre apart.
  • Water your Okra fairly regularly, and if your soil is too hard or clayey, grow some Okra in a pot no problem.
  • By the way, Okra are partial to high amounts of Potash.
  • During the growing period, water in lots of liquid fertiliser, such as worm tea and add handfuls of compost.
  • Tip pruning will also give you a bushier plant with more flowers and more Okra pods.
  • In warm areas of Australia, your Okra will be ready to pick in 10 weeks. In cold temperate zones however, it may take as long as 16 weeks.
  • Pick your Okra when they’re small and certainly before they get bigger than 10cm in length. Around 5 – 10 cm length is best.
  • Tip: Okra pods are referred to as mucilaginous. This can be a bit slimy in cooking, so if that bothers you, don’t slice them, keep them whole.
  • Alternatively, add a couple of drops of vinegar or lemon juice.
  • I’ve also read that you should avoid growing Okra where you’ve had tomatoes, capsicums or potatoes growing previously.
  • For different varieties of Okra, go to www.4seasonsseeds.com.au

Design Elements:

with Landscape Designer Louise McDaid
Photo:M. Cannon, Salzburg, Austria
Straight hedges, curvy hedges, hedges for privacy, secret rooms, and windbreaks.
If you’re hedge is too much work, gives you hay-fever, or just doesn’t look nice, pull it out. Yes, you can do it.
There’s so many varieties of plants that make great hedges that don’t spend any more time looking at the sad excuse of a hedge.
Plant a better one, or, plant another one alongside, you’ll be glad you did.
So many hedges to talk about.

This concludes the series on Living walls and vertical gardens, - great for small spaces, or even big spaces when we want to include an intimate or cosy part into our garden. You can’t go wrong if you listen into Design Elements’ Living Walls and Vertical Garden Series.

Plant of the Week:

You look out your kitchen window and you see swathes of green as far as the eye can see. Does that sound like your garden? 
Perhaps you could inject a bit of colour that says wow, that’s just gorgeous! In fact plum gorgeous all year round.
We're focussing on the burgundy coloured Loropetalum.
There is L. chinense var Rubrum and L. chinense var Burgundy.
Both have deep burgundy oval shaped leaves all year round and it’s hard to pick the difference between the two.
Flowers are a hot pink, fringy affair that look like a sort of like a fuchsia flower  and scientifically they’re described as this:each flower has four strip-like twisted oblong petals, in umbellate clusters of 6 to 9 flowers in the upper leaf axils. Flowering from late winter to mid Spring.
Make a great fuchsia alternative to cool temperate districts that can’t grow Fuchsias.
Grow to ½ metres, are very hardy, and can be pruned any way you like.
They like most soil as well as dry soil and are terrifically heat tolerant once established.
They will grow in all parts of Australia including those that receive light frosts.
Not overly fond of clay soils so add in a wheelbarrow load of humus or home made compost to the garden bed before planting.
Grows in full sun or part shade, but will colour better in full sun, giving a rich, deep burgundy leaf that makes a perfect foil in the garden.
I have dry sandy soil, that is extremely well drained and have no problem at all. I rarely give the hedge any additional watering during dry weather.
Loropetalums have a loose form and look best when pruned or as a tall plant at the back of the border.
NEW L. chinense Plum Gorgeous.
New variety which has closer branching and is a lower growing. plant.
Height 1.2m x 1.5m, takes full sun or part shade.Extremely drought tolerant once established.
Great for adding colour and depth to the garden. The deep plum coloured foliage is maintained right throughout the year providing an extended season of interest.'Plum Plum Gorgeous has a compact form, graceful habit and maintains its naturally dense shape.
In spring, and again in autumn, you will be rewarded with bright magenta tassled flowers.
Tip prune young plants to promote a bushy habit. Prune as a hedge if you like.
Fertiliser requirements: any general purpose organic fertiliser will do after flowering right through to the end of summer. Follow the manufacturer’s directions of course.
They aren’t overly fussed about being fertilised that much once mature.
Easy to grow and requires minimal maintenance. No major insect problems.
Propagate from semi-hardwood cuttings in Autumn, but don’t have a very good strike rate.