Wurzels and Parrots

WILDLIFE IN FOCUS

There’s no denying sulphur Crested Cockatoos are loud and noisy.

Sulphur Crest Cockatoo photo M Cannon

They’re a bit like teenage larrikins-very social, like to be the centre of attention, fairly friendly but do muck up from time to time.
Sometimes they can be down  right destructive but they’re probably just playing.
Let’s find out more what about them….I'm talking with ecologist Sue Stevens

You’ll probably me familiar with the high-pitched screeching noises that the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo makes.
Did you know that their screeching is meant to traverse long distances through tropical and subtropical forest environments?
They also make loud and incessant grating calls during the evening when they return home to their nests.
Sulphur-crested Cockatoos mainly feed on seeds of grasses, grains, herbs, wild melons, fruits and vegetables. They also eat flowers, nectar, nuts, cereals, oilseed crops, grapes, berries, orchards, leaf buds, rhizomes, bulbous roots. These cockatoos even prefer to eat certain insects like skinks and crickets as well as small larvae. No white bread in that diet that’s for sure.
If you have any questions about Sulphur Crested Cockatoos, or have an anecdote about their behaviour, even some photos, drop us a line to realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

VEGETABLE HEROES

This weeks Vegetable Hero is Mangel Wurzel
Folk band or vegetable?
Vegetable of course but there is a band in England called the Wurzels.

Scientifically- Beta vulgaris var rapacea also know as mangold and beets.
Before I start I have to say, I’ve never grown or eaten Mangel Wurzel, but after with a name like Mangel Wurzel, I couldn’t resist talking about it. Plus it seems like a fun veggie to try and grow.
Mangel wurzels even feature in George Orwells novel, Animal Farm’
Also Time Robbins mentions in his book, Jitterbug Perfume, where the characters us the wurzel as one of the ingredients of a perfume.
In the northern hemisphere winter, food was shot for animals, and in the nineteenth century in addition to dry hay and grain, horses, cows and sheep were often fed pumpkins, cabbage and root crops like mangel wurzels.
Why don’t you see this veggie in the shops?
Did you know that if you looked at any seed catalogue from the 1800’s you not only find this vegetable listed, but the description would make claims that the root could grow as big as a small child.
As you’ve guessed it’s a root vegetable that’s related to beetroot and different varieties have yellow, red or even cream flesh.
The roots vary in size and shape too-some are like long radishes and some are short and squat.
Why grow them?
Mangel Wurzel has the highest sugar content of any vegetable.
Plus the leaves not only look like siverbeet leaves, can be cooked and eaten like silverbeet.

If you can grow beetroot or silverbeet you can also grow Mangel wurzel because it needs the same conditions.

When to Grow

For tropical climates plant in the dry season,, during autumn winter and spring in the subtropics, and during spring, summer and autumn absolutely everywhere else.
Yes that means temperate and cool temperate regions.
Because the mangel wurzel has fallen out of favour, all those varieties from the 1800 seed catalogues have pretty much disappeared.
But, you can get seeds from heirloom seed companies, seed saver networks, and community gardens.
If you can get the yellow or cold coloured varieties-they apparently taste the sweetest.www.thelostseed.com.au
A Basic Guide for Growing Mangel Wurzel.
If you manage to get your hands on some seed sow them straight into the ground because like a few root vegetables-carrots and beets, they don’t like being transplanted.
If you want mini-mangel wurzels which are supposed to be good for roasting-just space these about 10cm apart.
If you want big mangel wurzels-space them 25cm apart.
On the upside, mangel wurzels grow in any type of soil as long as it’s well drained.
The soil pH doesn’t matter much either as long as it’s not some ridiculously high or low number.
And, you can pick them whenever you think they’re big enough to eat.
You might be wondering how to tell when they’re big enough.
That’s easy-like beetroot and carrots, they push themselves up out of the ground as they get older.
In the mangel wurzels’s case, as much as one-third of the vegetable pushes itself out of the ground.
From go to whoa takes about 5 months.
If you want a really big mangel wurzel-be warned it won’t taste nice and be quite woody.
Here’s a tip: when you pull out your mangel wurzel out of the ground, cut of the leaves as soon as possible, leaving about 5cm.
The reason you need to cut the leaves off and harvesting is because if you don’t do this, the root part of the vegetable will shrivel.

Mangel wurzels don’t have any problems except if you have bandicoots, possums, rats or mice in your area.  They love mangel wurzels apparently.
Look out for mangel wurzels at farmers markets or online
When you cut of the top 5cm, you can replant that bit back into the veggie garden or put it into a jar of water to sprout some roots.
If you’re cooking mangel wurzels, the recommended time is 20-30 minutes if whole or less if you cut them up smaller.
Mangel wurzels are used in cooking as a potato substitute either boiled, baked, mashed etc; also has an interesting history of being used during the 18th century to brew beer.
By the way, if you want to save seed of mangel wurzels-they usually only flower in cool temperate districts.
Why is it good for you?

Mangel-wurzels are low in calories and they also have high sugar content, which can stave the craving for sugar without putting on kilos.
They’re high in vitamin C, folic acid and of course carbohydrates-good for energy stores if you’re low.
Mangel wurzels have large amounts of Betaine –which is particularly good for  cardiovascular health.
And finally they’re high in fibre.
THAT WAS OUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT

DESIGN ELEMENTS

with landscape designer Louise McDaid
Starting a new series- all about trees – they’re an essential part of a garden’s structure, adding shade, shelter and privacy to name just a few

Do you have a favourite tree and is it growing in your garden?
Or is the tree that you really like something that belongs in a park or nature reserve?
Whatever the case, trees are essential not only for providing animal habitat, food, shelter and nesting sites, but provide us with a few amenities as well, like shade, and beauty.

But how fast do they grow? In this day and age we are moving house more often than we used to, so is it any use planting a tree now when we might not be around to enjoy it?

Yes is the answer, because there are so many benefits that you can enjoy while it’s growing (even if you don’t see it to maturity).

We need to be patient with trees, and generally we’re impatient – we want things to grow fast – but there are some drawbacks with this.

While fast growers are good for the impatient, they are usually short lived – take acacias for example, some may only last around 10 years which is paltry for a tree.

Where would Koalas be without trees?                               photo M Cannon

Let’s start the ball rolling with part 1 of the series on trees.

In the words of Dr. Seuss character from his book The Lorax
“I am the Lorax. I speak for the trees.
I've come here to celebrate Earth Day, so please Come join me and help spread the message I bring. Be a friend to the trees and to each living thing.”

Trees provide beautiful flower colour       photo M Cannon

Are you aware that as trees grow they absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and lock it away for decades or even centuries?
All the more reason to plant more trees.

PLANT OF THE WEEK

with Karen Smith editor of www.hortjournal.com.au

Scaevola is a well-known Australian native that really does well in gardens in all states and not just the east coast of Australia flowering from Spring to Autumn, even during the worst heat of summer.
Drought tolerant, salt tolerant, pretty flowers and no real maintenance.

Wouldn’t that be good if most of our plants were like that?
Never mind, even if we put some plants of these amongst the ones that aren’t so hardy, we’ll still have a show of colour and foliage when those others fade away.

With those sort of credentials -let’s find out about this plant.

That burnt hand story I’ve discovered was slightly off with the facts.
The latin word scaevola has a link to a Mucius Scaevola which was a lineage of patricians during the Roman Republic.
It was an offshoot of the Mucian family started by Gaius Mucius Scaevola.
This Gaius Scaevola was a legendary assassin who burnt away his right hand as a show of bravery during the early years of the Republic. Not saint at all then.
Latin: scaevola, "left-handed.

It grows naturally along the coastline around Nambucca Heads to Coffs Harbour where I’ve seen it on bushwalks.
S. albidus grows as far south in coastal areas of Victoria and Tasmania doing well in any type of soil, including clay soils.

The flowers have a beautiful fan shape in colours of purple, blue or mauve.
This petal colour is combined with a white or more commonly a yellow centre to give a bright eye catching flower.
The flowers grow along the stems and become smaller from the top to the bottom of the plant.
Flowering time is from spring through to the end of summer these although this flowering time alters according to the length of summer and the temperatures of the season.
Visited by butterflies and Honey Bees
If you have any questions about growing Scaevola or fairy fan flower why not write in to realworldgardener@gmail.com

Going Nuts About Protein

Wildlife in Focus - Golden Whistler

This bird is one of Australia’s loudest and most beautiful songsters but scientists give it a most unkind name. There’s even one group on Norfolk Island that they call Tamey.
The call has been described as up to 35 loud, rapid, ringing notes without pause, or a high, thin call with a whip-crack.
Listen to this. I'm talking with ecologist Sue Stevens

As Sue mentioned, the Golden Whistler is found from Cooktown in North QLD to the Eyre Peninsular in the South, as well in Southern WA. This bird inhabits most kinds of dense forest, its diet consists of insects, grubs and small fruits
The Golden Whistler will visit suburban areas close to nature reserves if gardens include thick vegetation, layers of trees, shrubs and ground cover. Collecting firewood from local reserves is not a good idea if you want native birds to visit your area.
 Keep your cat in at night and give it a stimulating indoor environment and a cat run or enclosure, to minimise the threat to birds.
If you have any questions about the Golden Whistler, or have spotted it in your neighbourhood, why not send in a photo or drop us a line. Or send in a photo to realworldgardener@gmail.com or by post to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675, and I’ll send you a copy of the Garden Guardians in return..

Vegetable Heroes

This week’s Vegetable Hero is Peanuts!
Arachis hypogaea, or peanut is not a true nut but a legume, like peas, and beans.
Why peanuts? Because people tell me it’s easy, and fun thing to try.
Another announcer here at the station, bought a small plant from a low cost supermarket last year, planted it in a pot and harvested some peanuts.
He was amazed at how easy it was and wondered if it would continue to crop the following year.
I’ll answer that later.
Anthropologists working on the slopes of the Andes in Brazil and Peru have discovered the earliest-known evidence of peanut farming dating back an amazing 7600 years. Amazing!
Did you know that peanut growing was introduced into Australia in Queensland during the gold rushes of the 1870's.
Chinese gold diggers on the Palmer River near Cooktown, around this time were the first to grow peanuts.
The peanut plant grows to a bush about 50 cm tall and up to 100 cm wide.
Small, yellow, pea-type flowers emerge at 30-40 days after planting give or take a few weeks, and, after self-pollination, the ovary's base elongates, bends downwards and penetrates the soil.
The tip of this 'peg' then enlarges to form a pod containing one to three kernels.
Depending on what variety you managed to get, where you’re growing your peanuts and what the weather’s like that season, will determine how long your peanuts will take to grow.
Peanuts can take anywhere from from 14 to 26 weeks, or 3 ½ to 6 months.
Peanuts aren’t too fussy about the type of soil you’ve got.
However, Peanuts are a subtropical legume crop needing relatively warm growing conditions and 500 to 600 mm of rain.
As long as the soil is well-drained and friable with no large stones, sticks, stumps or chemical residues.
Peanuts can tolerate a wide range of pH - from 5 to 8, but can’t tolerate heavy clay soils.

When to Plant

Planting usually occurs from October to January in Queensland and NSW. In the Northern Territory, plantings occur in March-April.
Peanuts have been commercially trialled in Western and South Australia, so give them a go there too.
For cooler zones, plant your peanuts in pots or containers and keep the going by placing them in the warmest part of the garden.
Where Can You Get It?

The seed that is.

To grow your own peanuts if you can’t find any peanut bushes to buy, it’s sort of easy.
What you need is a packet or raw peanuts. Not salted or roasted or any other fancy shmancy types.
It has to be raw peanuts.
Then, like any other seed, you sow some raw peanuts either into jiffy pots, punnets or into a garden bed.
Sow each seed 3-5cm deep and if they are fresh they should germinate in one to two weeks).
There’s a few strange and weird things about looking after your peanut bushes though.
For instance, you might be surprised to know that the pods take most of their calcium and boron directly from the soil rather than through the roots.
Sprinkle some Dolomite, which contains Calcium, around the plant before flowering.
Next, watering is critical particularly during the critical stages of germination, flowering, pegging, and pod filling.
Yes, that's right, all the time the peanut is growing.

When Are They Ready?

The next trick is to know when to dig up the peanuts, and like a lot of things that grow in the veggie bed, it’s when the leaves start to turn brown. You can check to see if they’re ripe by digging a few up.
What you need to see are dark-coloured pods inside the shell, where the kernel should be changing from a pink to gold colour.
Not all the pods will be ready at once so timing is important.
But look, if you get it wrong, that try again next year.
For Brian,  the announcer at 2RRR 88.5fm, who experimented with growing peanuts, the answer to will the plant grow again next year.
No, because you have to dig up the whole plant, shake off the excess soil and hang the entire thing up in a warm, dry place, such as the garage or garden shed.
Dry the bush for a week or two until brittle then break off the pods.
Wash off any dirt-dirt isn’t too tasty- and air-dry for a couple of weeks.
If you like raw peanuts you don’t have to do any more.
  If you like roasted peanuts, then put them on a tray in the oven at 160-180°C in an oven for 15-20 minutes for shelled kernels or 20-25 minutes for peanuts still in the shell.
Why is it good for you?
Peanuts are high in fibre and protein but free of cholesterol.
They’re a high energy food but with a slow energy release over a long time because of the high oil unsaturated (good) fat content.
They also have a high folic acid (iron) content

Living Planet

with Sophie Golding
It’s great to have all kinds of creatures visit your garden. You put out those bits of white bread for the maggies, or those seed bells for the cockatoos.

What’s wrong with that?
Animals that expect to be fed by people can become aggressive, harassing people for food when they are hungry.
The Ibis at the Botanic gardens where I teach visiting schools, are an example.
I’m often asked by visiting students why the Ibis seem to harass them.

Whatever your thoughts,
 Listen to this….

The NSW department of Environment and Heritage suggests that when you feed native animals you're giving them the wildlife equivalent of junk food.
When kangaroos and wallabies become used to being hand-fed, they sometimes attack people in their quest for food. Remember, they have sharp claws and a strong kick.
Another example is in Flinders Chase on Kangaroo Island where they’ve had to put up cages around the eating tables in the national park, so people can eat in peace.
If you have any questions about this Feeding Wildlife, send it our email address, or just post it.

Plant of the Week

Alliums

 The generic name Allium is the Latin word for garlic.

There are lots of plants that you may know in this perennial bulb family group, including the various edible onions, garlics, chives, and leeks, and of course society garlic. Most of them have an onion or garlic taste and perfume.

You might think that Alliums are in the Alliaceae family.

They were but have been reclassified into the family Amaryllidaceae.

Chives have pretty cute pom pom purple flowers that make a nice low border in the garden. Although many of the plants in the onion family have flowers with that distinctive onion or garlic scent, many others are have a delicate floral aroma.

Did you know that these floral scented Alliums are often used in perfumes and cosmetics?
But there are also other members of the onion family that have quite a wow factor when it comes to their flowers.
Like a lot of bulbs, Alliums don’t repeat flower.

What’s good about ornamental alliums is that the flower heads can be left on the plant to dry.
The dried seed heads look attractive in the garden and can be used for cut flower arrangements.

If you’ve got dry weather, keep the foliage watered even after flowering, to feed the plant.

 Don't be put off by the height of the ornamental Alliums because their leaves are usually straight-linear, channelled or flat, and don't take up much room. A great design element!

Technically the flowers umbels where the outside flower first and progresses to the inner flowers.

Ornamental alliums were a big feature in many of the gardens that I saw this year in the UK.

Some RHS gardens and what they called a wide border which was literally filled with alliums.

Alliums with their purple pom pom flowers really provided a vertical and linear element, amongst the flower borders.

Sometimes the flowers are described as fireworks in mid-explosion.

The purple and the green, although not opposites in the colour wheel, were definitely a standout amongst the crowd.

Really a must have plant in a perennial border because you can enjoy flowers from spring until autumn.

By mid-spring, packed, rounded heads of violet-purple stand on strong stems that reach up to 90cm high.
The leaves are bright green and the flowers, which kind of remind me of Agapanthus flowers in size and shape, soft to the touch, with lots of petals.

 How to grow your Allium bulbs-yes bulbs.

In general, alliums need a sunny position and good drainage.

The important point is that they need a well-drained site.
They don’t like cold, exposed or waterlogged conditions.
Being bulbs, they'll come up every year without you having to do another thing. Brilliant!

Plant bulbs in the autumn, to twice the depth of the bulb.

Most Alliums will do well in deep pots.
Congested clumps can be lifted and divided - straight after flowering, if necessary.
Dead-head before the seeds disperse if you want to avoid seedlings.

Their nectar-rich flowers will attract bees and hoverflies
Alliums go well with soft pastels, among old-fashioned roses,  among a Mediterranean mix of lavender, artemisia, sage and phlomis.

 

 

 

Some Alliums for you to try:
Purple Sensation'. will tolerate more shade
Allium ‘Millenium’

Allium giganteum like its name suggests, is bit of a giant, though slightly later to flower.

It reaches 1.2m (4ft) tall and each large 15cm (6in), spherical head is lilac-purple

Both A. cristophii and A. schubertii can be grown on heavier soil in full sun, but will only successfully overwinter and multiply if given good drainage.
 

This is the first Australian release of the very best perennial Allium. It forms a compact upright clump of glossy green, narrow strap-like leaves. From mid-summer into autumn 35cm tall stems carry a profusion of large bright purple-rose balls of flowers. Foliage mounds grow 30cm tall by 30cm wide.

Allium sphaerocephalon-Drumstick Allium

From January, metre tall stems are topped by green golf balls which over a period of a week or so gradually turn purple.  Increases readily. Sun. 100cm x 10cm.

Allium roseum, A. sphaerocephalon and A. vineale produce aerial bulbils in flower head.
Carefully remove and separate the bulbils and plant them in moist free draining compost about 2.5cm (1in) apart and cover with 1cm (3/8in) layer of compost.

Available from Lambley nursery.

Allium christophii -35x 30cm

One of the most beautiful large headed Alliums with huge 20cm mauve heads on short squat stems. Better than many of the modern breeds, with fewer disease issues and good garden persistence in a well drained position.

From Diggers Seeds www.diggers.com
Why not treat yourself to a big flowered one? Go on.

 

Birdscaping with LadyFingers

REAL WORLD GARDENER Wed. 5pm 2RRR 88.5fm Sydney and Across Australia on the Community Radio Network. www.realworldgardener.com
REALWORLD GARDENER NOW ON FACEBOOK
The complete CRN edition of RWG is available on http://www.cpod.org.au/ , just click on 2RRR to find this week’s edition.
Streaming live at www.2rrr.org.au Wednesdays 5pm

 

Wildlife in Focus

with ecologist Sue Stevens.
Gardens aren’t complete without our wildlife visitors popping in for a snack or a drink. Sometimes we just like the look of them, or it’s their musical song that has us hooked. Yet, there you are toiling away in the garden and all you’re getting is the Common Minor or Indian Myna birds that shoo all the more desirable birds away.If that’s the case, you need to rethink your planting, and here’s some tips…

Podcast Powered By Podbean

If you have nice wildlife visitors in your garden, drop the RWG team a line about who they are and what in your garden they’re attracted to? Or, send in a photo, because we’d love to hear from you. realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR po Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675

Vegetable Heroes:

• 
• The answer to the question What vegetable, was used to thicken soups and stews, and the seeds were toasted and ground then used as a coffee substitute? 
• OKRA the way to pronounce is "Oh krah" not "Aukra"Okra is also known as Lady’s fingers.Okra is in the Malvaceae or Mallow family and called Abelmoschus esculentus.
• It used to be called Hibiscus esculentus so that may you give you a clue as to what the bush might look like.
• Okra is related to cotton, cocoa, hibiscus and Rosella plants.
• So what does the Okra bush look like? Okra varies in height from 60cm to 2m high depending on the variety of seed you buy. 
• The leaves are heart shaped with plenty of yellow hibiscus-like flowers with a maroon throat. 
• As you know, after the flowers comes the fruit that can be best described as a five-ribbed small pod. Much smaller than beans or cucumbers.
• Pick these a week after the flowers emerge because the Okra, gets too tough and stringy after that.
• I’m told the leaves can be used as Spinach. Doubly useful.
• In sub-tropical districts, you can plant them in August and September and then again January and February.
• In temperate climates, sow seeds in October through to December, Arid areas have between August and December to sow seeds directly into the soil. 
• Cool temperate for you, the advice is to grow them in a greenhouse, but I discovered a blog from Adam whose from a cool mountain climate and Adam says “Okra does indeed grow in the cool areas, it just needs a bit of help to establish. Adam puts an old plastic milk bottle over the plant until it fills the bottle, then away it goes. Just pick the warmest part of your garden. You will get a small crop if you have a cold Summer, but should have heaps is the summer is warmer. Thanks Adam!.
• Finally for Tropical districts, you’ve won the jackpot this week, because you can grow Okra all year round!
• Okra seeds germinate reasonably well, but will be helped along if you soak them in a shallow dish of tepid water for 24hours.This will soften the hard outer seed coat.
• Pick a spot that gets full sun and has plenty of compost dug into the soil.
• One thing that Okra detests, and that’s wet, boggy soil or soil with poor drainage.
• Okra will also be set back if you get a cold snap in your district.
• Either sow the seeds directly or into punnets for later transplanting. I have heard that they don’t like being transplanted that much so you could try sowing them in pots made of coir, or make them yourself from newspaper or toilet rolls. A very permaculture thing to do.
• Because they grow as a largish bush, space the seeds or seedlings if transplanting, about 50cm to a metre apart.
• Water your Okra fairly regularly, and if your soil is too hard or clayey, grow some Okra in a pot no problem.
• By the way, Okra are partial to high amounts of Potash.
• During the growing period, water in lots of liquid fertiliser, such as worm tea and add handfuls of compost.
• Tip pruning will also give you a bushier plant with more flowers and more Okra pods.
• In warm areas of Australia, your Okra will be ready to pick in 10 weeks. In cold temperate zones however, it may take as long as 16 weeks.
• Pick your Okra when they’re small and certainly before they get bigger than 10cm in length. Around 5 – 10 cm length is best.
• Tip: Okra pods are referred to as mucilaginous. This can be a bit slimy in cooking, so if that bothers you, don’t slice them, keep them whole.
• Alternatively, add a couple of drops of vinegar or lemon juice.
• I’ve also read that you should avoid growing Okra where you’ve had tomatoes, capsicums or potatoes growing previously.
• For different varieties of Okra, go to www.4seasonsseeds.com.au

Design Elements:

with Landscape Designer Louise McDaid

Photo:M. Cannon, Salzburg, Austria

Straight hedges, curvy hedges, hedges for privacy, secret rooms, and windbreaks.
If you’re hedge is too much work, gives you hay-fever, or just doesn’t look nice, pull it out. Yes, you can do it.
There’s so many varieties of plants that make great hedges that don’t spend any more time looking at the sad excuse of a hedge.
Plant a better one, or, plant another one alongside, you’ll be glad you did.
So many hedges to talk about.

This concludes the series on Living walls and vertical gardens, - great for small spaces, or even big spaces when we want to include an intimate or cosy part into our garden. You can’t go wrong if you listen into Design Elements’ Living Walls and Vertical Garden Series.

Podcast Powered By Podbean

Plant of the Week:

You look out your kitchen window and you see swathes of green as far as the eye can see. Does that sound like your garden? 
Perhaps you could inject a bit of colour that says wow, that’s just gorgeous! In fact plum gorgeous all year round.
We're focussing on the burgundy coloured Loropetalum.

There is L. chinense var Rubrum and L. chinense var Burgundy.

Both have deep burgundy oval shaped leaves all year round and it’s hard to pick the difference between the two.
Flowers are a hot pink, fringy affair that look like a sort of like a fuchsia flower  and scientifically they’re described as this:each flower has four strip-like twisted oblong petals, in umbellate clusters of 6 to 9 flowers in the upper leaf axils. Flowering from late winter to mid Spring.
Make a great fuchsia alternative to cool temperate districts that can’t grow Fuchsias.
Grow to 2­½ metres, are very hardy, and can be pruned any way you like.
They like most soil as well as dry soil and are terrifically heat tolerant once established.
They will grow in all parts of Australia including those that receive light frosts.
Not overly fond of clay soils so add in a wheelbarrow load of humus or home made compost to the garden bed before planting.
Grows in full sun or part shade, but will colour better in full sun, giving a rich, deep burgundy leaf that makes a perfect foil in the garden.
I have dry sandy soil, that is extremely well drained and have no problem at all. I rarely give the hedge any additional watering during dry weather.
Loropetalums have a loose form and look best when pruned or as a tall plant at the back of the border.
NEW L. chinense Plum Gorgeous.

New variety which has closer branching and is a lower growing. plant.

Height 1.2m x 1.5m, takes full sun or part shade.Extremely drought tolerant once established.
Great for adding colour and depth to the garden. The deep plum coloured foliage is maintained right throughout the year providing an extended season of interest.'Plum Plum Gorgeous has a compact form, graceful habit and maintains its naturally dense shape.
In spring, and again in autumn, you will be rewarded with bright magenta tassled flowers.
Tip prune young plants to promote a bushy habit. Prune as a hedge if you like.

Fertiliser requirements: any general purpose organic fertiliser will do after flowering right through to the end of summer. Follow the manufacturer’s directions of course.

They aren’t overly fussed about being fertilised that much once mature.

Easy to grow and requires minimal maintenance. No major insect problems.

Propagate from semi-hardwood cuttings in Autumn, but don’t have a very good strike rate.