What’s On The Show Today?How to grow this tropical looking plant because it’s good for you in the Good Earth, some great tips on germinating seeds in Vegetable Heroes; a native fruit with caviar like insides in plant of the Week and a flower that signifies “ new beginnings” in Talking Flowers.
THE GOOD EARTH
But you won’t be planting out seeds to start this next plant because you need rhizomes.
Not only that, for this herb you won’t be using the leaves in cooking but the roots or rhizomes instead.
Let’s find out all about Turmeric in the podcast. I'm talking with Margaret Mossakowska from www.mosshouse.com.au
You can cut these apart and start more than one plant if you like.
The easiest way to get it to sprout is to just bury the root under 5cms of potting mix. If there are any knobs or buds on the root, turn it so they are facing upwards.
If you have any questions about growing your own turmeric, then why not email us firstname.lastname@example.org or write in to 2RRR PO Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675
So, are there any sure fire techniques that could work for you for some of those tricky seeds?
Keeping A Record
Whether you are producing a few plants for your home flower and vegetable gardens or working at a larger-scale nursery, developing a propagation journal or notebook, is a good place to start if you’re having a hit and miss type of problem with your seeds.
- What you need to do is keep a record of
- when seeds are sown,
- the germination date and
- success rate, and
- when seedlings are ready for transplanting each year.
Next year you might then consider making adjustments so that you’re growing plants under optimum conditions.
Having said that, seed companies sell thousands of packets of each variety of seed and these have been batch tested for germination rates at above 85%.
It’s pretty unlikely that a batch of seeds is unreliable without implying that several thousand other seeds won’t germinate either.
- Store your seeds properly-not in a garden shed if it heats up during summer and is freezing cold in winter.
- The cold won’t matter so much as the heat.
- Seeds are a fragile commodity, and if not treated properly, their viability takes a dive.
- Did you know that some seeds can survive for thousands of years under the proper conditions, while others will lose viability quickly, even when properly stored?
- Parsnips is one that loses viability very quickly.
- The best way to store your precious seeds is to keep seeds in a cool, dark location with low humidity, like a cool laundry that won’t fluctuate in temperate that much.
- Some say put them in the fridge, but if you’re like me, you’d need a whole fridge just to keep the seeds in.
- Store the seeds in a plastic container, and label the top with the expiry date of the seeds.
The seeds that are still living will sink to the bottom, while the dead ones will float on the surface. This test generally works better for larger seeds as a general rule.
The other method is to lay seeds on one half of a damp paper tower, and put them into a zip lock bag.
When sowing seeds in punnets, especially if you’re re-using them, give the punnets a good soak with a 10% solution containing bleach so that any pathogens that might kill of the seeds is killed.
This’ll take about 15 minutes.
You’re better off sowing plants that resent root disturbance when transplanted into small, individual containers like cell packs or plug trays.
Recycled plastic containers, like empty yogurt or margarine tubs, work well, too, as long as you've poked holes in the bottom for drainage.
It doesn’t matter what type of container you use as long as it’s clean and free of pathogens.
- If you’ve got an old kitchen sieve, use that to sprinkle the mix over the seeds after you’ve sown them into the punnets or vegetable garden.
- Very fine seeds that need light to germinate should be barely covered if at all.
- In this case, I tend to light sprinkle some soaked vermiculite over the seeds, so they won’t dry out but are weighed down by the mix.
- Each seed must make good contact with the soil and the best way to do this isn’t with your fingers-the seeds might stick to them, but with a small piece of wood, or the bottom of a glass jar.
- Water in your seeds either from the bottom up, or with a spray bottle so the seeds aren’t dislodged.
- Then cover your seeds with a plastic bag, a cut off plastic drink bottle, or in a mini greenhouse.
- Don’t water again unless you that you need to rehydrate your seed container.
- The best way to do this is, place the entire punnet, pot or whatever you’re using in a basin with about 5-7 cm of luke-warm water and allow the planting medium to wick moisture from the bottom.
- If just the surface has dried, you can lift the plastic covering and spritz the surface with water from a spray bottle.
- As soon as the seeds germinate, remove the plastic covering..
- Most seeds like temperatures of around 18 ° to 25°C to germinate.
In this case be sure to check for moisture often, since the seed containers may dry out more quickly.
Keep in mind that most seeds won’t germinate without sunlight.
Once the seeds have germinated they’ll grow best if they have at least 8 hours of sunlight each day.
For indoors, place seed trays in a sunny, north-facing window and give the tray or whatever a quarter turn each day to prevent the seedlings from overreaching toward the light and developing weak, elongated stems.
Once your seedlings have grown at least 4 leaves, they’ll need some nutrients fairly regularly to keep your seedlings growing strong.
When the embryo inside a seed is developing, it relies on food stored in the endosperm to fuel its growth.
s the shoot emerges from the soil and the true leaves develop, the initial nutrients supplied by the endosperm will be depleted.
Most seed-starting mixes contain a small amount of nutrients to help the initial seedling growth and not burn the developing roots.
But, once the true leaves emerge, it’s time to begin a half-strength liquid fertilizer regimen on a weekly basis and to get the most out of your seedlings, start using some kind of seaweed solution to get strong root growth.
The fruit from Australia’s citrus is so unique though that top chefs are using it as a garnish in their cuisine.
Australian Native Citrus is still citrusy but not as we know it.
Let’s find out about this plant.
What it looks like
The leaves are similar to Murraya Min a Min being much smaller and finer that the leaves of a regular citrus tree.
The inner fruit consist of vesicles that aren’t joined as in the segments of say a Mandarin, making them pop out like the finest of Beluga caviars.