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Showing posts with label design elements. Show all posts
Showing posts with label design elements. Show all posts

Sunday, 22 May 2022

Climber Heroes and Climber Shrubs: What Are They?

Conomorpha fragrans

 DESIGN ELEMENTS

Climber Heroes

This design series is about plants that are categorised as non-general lines.

Every week I’ve been saying that were talking about plants that you won’t necessarily find in your big box store or possibly even in your nursery so you may have to search for them.

These plants are so worthwhile that because they provide year round interest with their foliage colour, texture and contrast, not just their flowers.

Today perhaps some climbers fit the bill

Peter refers to cool sub-tropical garden or ‘cool sub-trops’ which means that overnight winter temperatures are down to about 5 degrees.

Don’t be put off if you live in a different climate because often plants adapt to a variety of climatic conditions and are worth a try.

Peter mentioned these climbers
  • Hoya carnosa
    Conomorpha fragrans often called climbing frangipani although it has nothing to do with the frangipani genus-Plumeria. The flower does look similar to the frangipani flower and are highly scented.
    • vigorous habit requiring a solid support
    • in cooler areas plant against a north facing wide. Deciduous in cold areas.

    • Dombeya ianthotrycha (tropical garden society of Sydney)-a winter flowering climber with large paper thin leaves. Flower colour is a muted red with a hint of orange. Can be trained as an espalier or a bun shaped shrub.

    • Hoya carnosa or wax flower, better in pots with specialised potting mix. If planting in the ground, must have well drained soil.
      • TIP: don't cut those flowering spurs off -  this 

    Let’s find out more by listening to the podcast. Marianne (host of Real World Gardener radio show ) is talking with Peter Nixon of Paradisus garden design. www.paradisusgl.peternixon.com.au

    Climber Shrubs

    This design series that covers everything from mixed shrub borders, sub-shrubs, climbers, hero trees to best garden bromeliads but use plants that are non-general lines.

    I have to say, Peter Nixon, RWG’s contributor for this series, focuses largely on what he calls cool sub-tropical garden or ‘cool sub-trops’ which he refers to often.

    Don’t be put off if you live in a different climate because often plants adapt to a variety of climatic conditions and are worth a try.
    Hibiscus geranioides

    Climber shrubs-what are they and how could I use them as 'garden fixes’ in my cool subtrops garden ?

    In fact if you were search for the term climber-shrub, you would be hard pressed to find it on the internet.

    Seems like a contradiction because climbers need support to climb whilst shrubs are free standing. But what about those plants that climb over themselves to form a sort of mounding shrub?

    Some of these types of shrubs are self-striking which might be called suckering.

    Insta examples from Peter Nixon

     Juanaloa aurantiaca -  or commonly called Golden Fingers because the flowers look like a little bunch of lady finger bananas.  Minimum winter overnight 6-7 degrees C

    Gmelina philipensis - 'Parrot Beak'. A deciduous shrub with unusual yellow flowers that resemble a parrot beak.

    Hibiscus geranoides-native to Australia. Loves a 'La Nina' type of weather. Interesting foliage texture

    Bauhinia tomentosa-sulphur flowering semi-deciduous  shrub to 3m with a cascading habit.

    Let’s find out more by listening to the podcast. Marianne (host of Real World Gardener radio show ) is talking with Peter Nixon of Paradisus garden design. www.paradisusgl.peternixon.com.au

    Friday, 20 May 2022

    Bright Shade Planting But Not In The Gloom

     DESIGN ELEMENTS

    Bright Shade Planting

    This design series is about plants that are categorised as non-general lines, in other words, plants that are not production grown that then become available in several different sized pots. This series is also about year round interest in the garden even when plants are not in flower. Imagine opening the back door to look at a sea of just green with no distinguishing features! A tad boring don't you think?

    Instead, think of plants with different sized and shaped leaves, that might also have contrasting colours.

    Plants we mention in this series, you won’t necessarily find in your big box store or possibly even in your nursery so you may have to search for them.

    These plants are so worthwhile that because they provide year round interest with their foliage colour, texture and contrast, not just their flowers.

    So you’ve got some shady areas that’s under trees. This spot is usually thick with the roots of the trees so will be difficult to plant anything there that will survive the root competition, or will it?
    This is where you have to think outside the square and look at plants that don't need to grow in too much soil.

    Cryptostephanos vansonii

    What are you going to grow in these root ridden shady areas?

    Peter mentioned

    • Calanthe sylvatica-a ground orchid-good for moist shade
    • Philodendron marshalliana-has storage stems and not a climber.

    • Syningia bullata and S. Canescens and S. cardinalis other syningia sp-small cordex that can regrow from.
    • Cryptostephanos vansoni

    I say every week that Peter Nixon, RWG’s contributor for this series, focuses largely on what he calls cool sub-tropical garden or ‘cool sub-trops’ which he refers to often.

    Don’t be put off if you live in a different climate because often plants adapt to a variety of climatic conditions and are worth a try.
    I'm talking with Peter Nixon of Paradisus garden design. www.paradisusgl.peternixon.com.au

    Have a listen to the podcast.

    Mixed Shrub Borders Are In Again

     DESIGN ELEMENTS

    This is a series about foliage colour and contrast and textural contrast  for year round interest. The focus is also on non-general lines instead of production grown planting. In other words, plants that may not necessarily be easy to find but so worth the effort. We kick off the series with mixed shrub borders.

    1. MIXED SHRUB BORDER

     Are they a thing of the past or a living process that still has relevance for the modern smaller garden?

    Hibiscus capitolia 'Apricot Sport'
    This kind of design style has been used for hundreds of years because it has great garden appeal.  There is no reason for it be considered irrelevant or 'old hat,' simply because it is so adaptable. It can be either formal or informal, full of colour and contrast or not, annuals, perennials and shrubs.

    Today though, it's all about the shrubs and is a start of the design series that covers everything from mixed shrub borders, sub-shrubs, climbers, hero trees to best garden bromeliads.

    I have to say, Peter Nixon  and Real World Gardener's contributor for this series, focuses largely on what he calls cool sub-tropical garden or ‘cool sub-trops’ which he refers to often.

    Don’t be put off if you live in a different climate because often plants adapt to a variety of climatic conditions and are worth a try.

    Peter mentions the following shrubs as his 'best.'

    Posoqueria longiflora

    • Tibouchina multifida-not more than 1.5m in height.
    • Hibiscus capitolio  'apricot sport'-double flowering hibiscus, slightly pendulous. 2.5m in height.
    • Posoqueria longiflora-commonly called Japanese Needle flower. Has perfumed flowers with a long white tube, height to 3m in semi-shade.
    • Brunsfelsia macrantha, 
    • Acokanthera oblongifolia - Bushmans Poison, 
    • Gardenia grandiflora ’Star’, 
    •  Rosa sanguineus, 

    • R. chinensis ’Ten Thousand Lights'

    Let’s find out more, I'm talking with  Peter Nixon of Paradisus garden design. www.paradisusgl.peternixon.com.au,


    Monday, 27 September 2021

    Dealing with the Mother of Tough Garden Beds

     DESIGN ELEMENTS

    When the going gets tough

    Many gardeners have a section of their garden that might often see plant failures year after year.
    They’ve tried all sorts of plants that claim to be tough as old boots, but still they fail.

    Glenice Buck has dealt with one such problem garden bed where she lives and this week starts a series of 3, on how she went about solving the problem.

    Glenice explains that the bed is on a slope (see photo below) so the water would just hit the soil and run down the hill.
    This garden bed also gets all day sun on heavy clay soil.
    Access to water is limited to hand watering. Not ideal considering the busy schedule that Glenice's parents have.
    On top of the lack of shade and being baked by hot afternoon summer sun, the soil had been previously used as bit of a driveway and had been compacted by heavy machinery when the house was being build.
    Glenice said in her post that 

    "This section of garden bed in the rear garden at #thegardenattheberkshires has been the toughest bed I have ever dealt with. Five years on with a lot of work and improvements it is finally starting to fill in and look good. It has been hard to get anything to grow in this area. The reasons for it being a difficult spot to deal with is
     
    Tough garden bed at the Berkshires photo Glenice Buck

    I'm talking with Glenice Buck Landscape design and Arboriculture consultant. Have a listen


    Part2
    In the last 5 years Glenice and husband Phil, have made so many improvements to the soil .
    • We used a rotary hoe to break up the soil before planting.
    • Spread/dug through gypsum and watered in liquid gypsum
    • Dug through premium garden soil and compost.
    • Mulched the area with fine grade pine bark, sugar cane mulch, straw and tea tree mulch.
    • Continued fertilising any new plants with composted animal manure pellets and liquid fertilisers every 2 to 3 months.
    She said of the garden that they did this process listed above ,every year for 5 years but it wasn't until the 3 year mark that there was a turn around in plants being able to survive.

    Without those years of soil preparation, the plants would not have been able to thrive.
    Miscanthus transmorrisonensis

    Planting Palette Glenice used for this area - lots of silvers!
    • Miscanthus transmorrisonensis-Evergreen Feather grass, evergreen leaves to 80cm tall by 100cm wide fountain-like mounds
    • Panicum virgatum ‘Heavy Metal’ or Blue Switch grass is special for its dramatic, metallic blue foliage and for its strong upright habit to around 140cm.
    • Senecio viravira- a beautiful rounded evergreen shrub with silver-white dissected leaves topped by soft lemon flowers. One of the best silvers. Sun loving and drought tolerant. 80cm x 100cm.
    • Artemisia Powis Castle- a hardy, bushy, low growing shrub that has very attractive, soft, silvery grey, deeply divided foliage
    • Olea europaea 'Piccolo' suits really tough conditions - drought, frost, poor soil, no irrigation. Grows to 2m
    I'm talking with Glenice Buck Landscape design and Arboriculture consultant.

    Part 3: The final Countdown


    In the last 5 years Glenice and husband Phil, have made so many improvements to the soil .
    A very difficult spot that experiences 40 degrees C  temperatures in summer and winter temparatures below 0  and even minus 5 degrees C at times.
    A hard clay soil that had been compacted by heavy vehicles driving over part of it for many years.
    The planting also included these very tough and hardy plants.
    • Teucrium fruiticans- also known as Germander, is a very hardy small evergreen bush in the mint family with grey stems and undersides of the leaves. 1.2m
    • Phillyrea angustifolia . Drought, heat, frost and salt tolerant. Phillyrea are olive related which explains their toughness-dark green glossy leaf with serrated edge, making a contrast to the other silvers in the bed. Height to 2.5m, slow growing. Alternative to English box. can be kept to under 1m in height
    • Aloes
    • Other succulents
    • Beschoneria yuccoides-Mexican lily, is a perennial succulent with a rosette of slender strap-like leaves that can grow to 1m in length. 
    • Rhagodia spinescens Salt bush-Small, native shrub with silvery, grey triangular foliage growing to approximately 1.5m. Tolerates all soil types and coastal conditions
    • Atriplex nummularia, commonly called Old Man Saltbush, a large grey shrub to 2 m tall and to 4-5 m wide, with brittle woody branches

    Glenice said in her post that
    We used a rotary hoe to break up the soil before planting.
    Spread/dug through gypsum and watered in liquid gypsum
    Dug through premium garden soil and compost.
    Mulched the area with fine grade pine bark, sugar cane mulch, straw and tea tree mulch.
    Continued fertilising any new plants with composted animal manure pellets and liquid fertilisers every 2 to 3 months.
    Continued to give any plants in the area a deep slow water by hand to ensure they receive a good amount of water closest their roots.
    Garden at the Berkshires-photo Glenice Buck
    • Selected plants that will cope with the tough conditions that area hot and dry conditions.
    • Over planted the slope- I planted out all the plants with closer spacing than recommended as they will help protect and buffer each other in this tough location. They will grow, settle in and get established more quickly together.
    • When you're dealing with tough locations like this you also need to have patience and give the garden soil time to take in all these improvements. Soil preparation is very important and you should try to hold off planting before the soil is ready - haha! try telling a gardener to do that when there is open soil / spare space in the garden. I didn't wait!
    I'm talking with Glenice Buck Landscape designer and Arboriculture consultant.
    www.glenicebuckdesigns.com.au 

    Saturday, 24 July 2021

    Bulbs from South Africa and South America for A Long Flowering Season pt 1 & 2

     DESIGN ELEMENTS

    Warm Bulbs What Are They?

    Spring flowering bulbs like daffodils, tulips, freesias, bluebells, to name a few are all bulbs from the northern hemisphere. They do best in cool climates and once the main spring show is over, there's nothing left to excite.
    • It's time to changeup or simply extend the flowering season to what garden designer Peter Nixon terms 'warm bulbs.' 
    • These come from warmer climates such as South Africa and South America, therefore are more suited to a large part of eastern Australia-the 'cool sub trops.' (Cool sub-tropical).
    • Scadoxus multiflorus var. katarineae photo P. Nixon
      The other benefits of these spectacular bulbs are that they flower much later and longer;  late spring into summer and even autumn.
    We're starting of this 4 part series with 'bulbs for bright semi-shade.'
    • The first group are Scadoxus species, some of which evergreen.
    • This group DO NOT like low light levels, and poor  drainage.
    • If growing under a tree, the canopy must be well above so the bulbs are not shaded.
    • Even morning sun would be good.
    • Bulbs are the size of an onion.
    • DO NOT bury the bulbs as you would a tulip are narcissus. The neck of these bulbs MUST be half-emerged.
    Peter mentions these:
    Scadoxus multiflorus var. katarinaea - Fireball Lily (but also grows in Southern Highlands equating to higher altitude South Africa). 


    Scadoxus membranaceus -entirely staminate and surrounded with pale bracts.
    Haemanthus albifloss
    Scadoxus membranaceus photo P Nixon

    I have some of these warm bulbs-namely two varieties of Haemanthus.
    One flowers easily, and the other, I’ve yet to discover where it prefers to grow so it puts out the red paintbrush flower.

    PLAY: Bulbs -bright semi-shade_16th June 2021

    I'm talking with Peter Nixon, garden designer from Paradisus garden design. www.dgnblog.peternixon.com.auwww.paradisusgl.peternixon.com.au     

    Instagram paradisus_sea_changer FB Paradisus Garden Design

    If you have any questions or feedback for me or Peter about these bulbs, why not write in to realworldgardener@gmail.com or info@peternixon.com.au

    Warm Bulbs pt. 2-Harsh Western Aspect 

    Every garden has an aspect that’s hard to plant out because it’s either too shady or too harsh and dry or even spot that receives hot western sun .
    Today I’m focusing on bulbs that can give you a long display in the warmer months but have evolved to withstand hot and dry months.

    Haemanthus coccineus photo M Cannon
    These bulbs originate where they are not exposed to very cold winters but have evolved to withstand hot dry conditions.

    The bulbs in this group are in the Amaryllidaceae family which consists of mainly bulbs with long strappy leaves. The flowers are usually in an umbel-like cluster on a short or long scape.

    Quite a few are known to have large showy flowers.
    Haemanthus coccineus or 'blood lily likes an exposed location. 

    It will refuse to flowers if in a shady, lush location. 
    Don’t be like me and put the blood lily in too much shelter so the leaves grow long and the flower season trigger is missed.
    • A dead give-away is if the leaves are quite long and extended, then the bulb is in too much shade.
    If you live in Adelaide, say a couple of streets back from the beach such as in Brighton, then expect your 'blood lily' to take off like mad. The low humidity and winter rains are a perfect climate for this bulb.
    Pink blood lily photo P Nixon

    You can also look for the interspecific hybrid of Haemanthus albifloss x H. coccineus
    If you love the shape of tulip flowers, then plant a row of these bulbs which will flower summer to autumn.
    Brunsvigia greagaria  photo P Nixon

    Brunsvigia gregaria which has agapanthus like flower on steroids in a crimson coloured bloom.
    Or even the combined genus of brunsvigia and amaryllis ending up with Amarygia.

    Let’s find out more by listening to the podcast with Peter Nixon


    If you have any questions or feedback for me or Peter about these bulbs, why not write in to realworldgardener@gmail.com or info@peternixon.com.au

    Friday, 11 June 2021

    How to Design For Shady Gardens

    DESIGN ELEMENTS

    SHADY GARDENS PART 1

    This shady garden series is not so much what makes the best shade trees, but what can grow in various types of shade, whether it’s a shady side passage, a shady balcony, or just a shady part of the garden.
    Do you have some shade in your garden?
    Perhaps it’s a really shady garden because of neighbouring trees or buildings, or perhaps your own trees have grown quite big and created a lot of shade.

    Over the next four weeks, Steve and I will be discussing what plants do best in a variety of shady gardens, but today, why is shade in a garden so important?

    Shady gardens will provide refuge from the heat in summer. Your garden may be basking in full winter sun right now, but in summer, you and some of your plants will want more shade for cooling.
    The leaves take advantage of even the slightest of breezes providing some air movement.
    Shade in gardens that is provided by trees has a much bigger cooling effect that say shade sails or umbrellas.
    On a hot day, the shade under a mature tree can be up to 10 degrees cooler than the actual temperature but the trick is to find what grows under those shade trees. 
    Alternatively, you may be able to lift the canopy so that more light reaches the lower levels or the understorey.
    Let’s find out more? I'm talking with Steve McGrane, agriculturalist and horticulturist.

    PLAY: Shady gardens intro_14th April 2021

    SHADY GARDENS PART 2

    Plants for Shade Under Trees

    Shade trees are great, but what can you plant under them that can cope with the root competition and low levels of sunlight throughout the year.

    You want something attractive of course and not just a bare area.
    In one of my shady spots 

    I've attached a birds nest fern (pictured) to the trunk of a silk oak (Grevillea robusta). 

    In the same space are many cliveas, which is a bit of  a standout with evergreen foliage and available in more colours than just bright orange, pastel colours such as creams, yellows and white.
    The cliveas are around the base of a macadamia tree.

    Neomarica gracilis or walking iris, are another perfect suggestion.

    Shade in gardens that is provided by trees has a much bigger cooling effect that say shade soils or umbrellas.
    Other suggestions this time  for cool climate gardens are Huechera species.  

    This shady garden series is not so much what makes the best shade trees, but what can grow in various types of shade, whether it’s a shady side passage, a shady balcony, or just a shady part of the garden.

    Let’s find out more ? I'm talking with Steve McGrane, agriculturalist and horticulturist.

    SHADY GARDENDS PART 3

    Plants for a Shady Balcony, Porch or Verandah

    This series is about what you can grow in a shady area around your house or garden.

    Balconies or verandah’s look better with plants, but what if they’ve got shade for most or a good part of the day?
    This situation is a bit of a challenge , Steve says he gets customers into his nursery that say they have shade in this situation but get some afternoon sun.
    Golden can palm is a perfect example for such a situation, plus they provide a fantastic screen.
    This palm then provides a microclimate for other containers underneath.

    You don’t have to be limited by shade on your verandah or balcony, because there are quite a lot of choices.

    Think about a particular look that you like such as a tropical big leafed look, then add a bamboo palm and the fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata).  

    Pots or containers that are elevated are a good idea to take advantage of more indirect light.

    My favourite right now are hoyas of all types, in fact I’ve started a collection of about 8 so far, with 6 in hanging pots. (pictured right.). The hanging baskets and pole assembly were from Aldi of all places.

    Let’s find out what will grow there?
    I'm talking with Steve McGrane, agriculturalist and horticulturist.

    SHADY GARDENS Part 4

    Plants for a Shady Side Passage

    Often there's one side of the house which is quite neglected because it's cold and not much light gets there, and and as much as you've tried, no plants have survived.
    It's time to re-look at that side passage, usually the south side of the house, and give it another red hot go.
    Steve thinks these are 'little gems.'


    Treated in the right way, this could be a turned into a special place.
    One suggestion is stone flagging with border plants.
    What about some narrow plants?
    Viburnum Dense Fence and 
    Nandina domestica or sacred bamboo.; there are many varieties of this old favourite.
    Some trees will fit.
    Blueberry ash , (Eleaocarpus reticulatus)
    Steve likes the idea of Japanese maples, (Acer palmatum.) Being deciduous it can take the extra cold in winter especially if there's no light.

    Let’s find more of what will grow there?
    I'm talking with Steve McGrane, agriculturalist and horticulturist.

    Thursday, 11 June 2020

    Perfumed Flowers and Orchids

    TALKING FLOWERS

    Perfumed and Non-Perfumed Flowers

    Why do some flowers have scent and others not?
    It's all about pollination because scent is a signal that directs pollinators to a particular flower whose nectar and/or pollen is the reward.

    Volatile oils are emitted from flowers can have either slight scent or strong scent depending on how far away the plant needs to attract its visitors.
    • Those plants that  are pollinated by bees and flies have sweet scents, whereas those pollinated by beetles have strong musty, spicy, or fruity odours.
    Perfumers have never been able to exactly match perfumed their scents to the complex scents that flowers exude.
    But floral volatile oils are essential in allowing insects to discriminate among plant species and even among individual flowers of a single species. 
    For example, closely related plant species that rely on different types of insects for pollination produce different odours.
    I'm talking with Mercedes Sarmini from www.floralgossip.com.au


    Mercede's list of favourite perfumed flowers are:

    Ms Carnation:Ms Rose
    Mr Hyacinth:Ms Lavender
    Mr Freesia: Ms Lilac
    Mr Tuber Rose: Mr Lily of the Valley
    Ms Stock: Ms Jasmine: Mr Belladonna Lily
    Ms Bouvardia

    Orchid Cut Flowers

    Potted plants:
    Like other orchid species, humidity is important for the best growth.
    •  a small tray of rocks or pebbles should be used for potted plants
    Water should be added to keep the pebbles covered at all times.
     Damp soil is important during peak growing and blooming seasons.
    A good orchid potting bark that retains some moisture should be used. 
    • Daily misting should be used to increase humidity.
    • Several hours of indirect light is best for live plants. Direct light can cause leaves and flowers to scorch on the edges. A warm windowsill with lots of indirect light can be the best spot.
    •  Fertilizers may be used to produce better blooms for many species.Care should be taken to avoid overusing fertilizers for potted plants.Overuse can lead to stunted plant growth or scorching of the leaves.
    Cut Flowers
    • Dunk in a bucket of water for 15 minutes.
    • Cut the stem straight across
    • Mist the flowers daily with filtered or "burped water."

    I'm talking with Mercedes Sarmini of www.floralgossip.com.au

    Thursday, 23 April 2020

    Create A Bird Friendly Garden and Crop Rotation

    DESIGN ELEMENTS

    Building A Bird Friendly Garden

    Wildlife in Australia has taken a massive hit with bushfires, then torrential rain that in some cases resulted in flooding.
    Are you wondering where have all the birds gone in your garden ?
    Or perhaps you have some of the more aggressive birds like Indian Mynah or Currawongs and want to know how to attract those smaller birds.
    How can you help the birdlife in your garden?
    Superb Fairy Wren
    Perhaps start by thinking about creating an oasis, but there’s some essential steps that need to be observed first.
    Let’s find out .
    I'm talking with Glenice Buck, consulting arborist and landscape designer www.glenicebuckdesigns.com.au

    If you provide your birds in your local area with a source of food, shelter and water, and that should help with not only supporting them, but letting you enjoy more of their presence. 
    • Glenice points out that you need to plant in layers.
    • This includes the canopy layer or larger trees, the shrub layer, then groundcovers and finally the leaf litter layer.
    You may have noticed when you are walking in your district, where the smaller birds congregate.
    This will give you some idea of the kind of habitat that they prefer.
    You don't necessarily have to plant the same as in the bushland are nature reserves, because some might be weeds.
    Grevillea Scarlet Sprite
    For example, fairy wrens love to dart in and out of lantana bushes that are growing along a path under the Gladesville bridge in Sydney.
    Instead, plant the type of style of bushes that these birds prefer; a shrub with dense foliage to the ground, such as Grevillea 'Scarlet Sprite,' or "Firesprite.' There's also a range of Callistemons or bottlebrushes that attract a variety including fairy wrens.
    • Think about plants that flower at different times of the year so that you've got a food source all year round in your garden.
    If you have any questions of course, why not email realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

    VEGETABLE HEROES

    Crop Rotation 101

    I thought I’d better address the whole crop rotation thing because of an email I received.
    It was from a gardener in Auckland who had problems with his corn.
    Some of the problems were caused by his planting the same crop twice in a row.
    He was totally unaware that this can be a real problem.

    • With his corn, the second crop was stunted and tasselled early. He was wondering why?
    • I had told him that, early corn tasseling usually results when plants are stressed.
    • Corn that is exposed to cold temperatures early in the growing season may develop tassels too early.
    • On the flip side, corn tassels too soon, can occur if it is stressed by drought, nutrient deficiencies or hot and dry conditions.
    • Perhaps one of those reasons outlined may be the cause?
    • He had added compost before planting the second lot but the compost wouldn’t have been enough.
    • He would have needed to add a barrow load of decomposed manures, but then waited for a few weeks for that to break down in the soil so that it was available to plants.

    It’s not ideal to plant the same crop twice in the same garden bed. 
    Crop rotation does a couple of things. The purpose is to prevent a build up of pathogens in the soil which can infect and re-infect particular families of plants.
    Another purpose is that plants absorb different quantities of soil nutrients, and repeated plantings will quickly deplete the soil.
    Crop rotation allows for more balanced soil fertility and microbial balance.

    • Here’s the outline of a basic 4 bed rotation system that I call Crop Rotation 101.


    I will outline one of the beds.Let’s call it bed 1.
    Say you start with Legumes which includes beans, peas, broadbeans.
    You will have to adjust to the seasons yourself.

    • Because winter is approaching the legume could possible be planted with peas or broadbeans in most areas.

    If you were starting this rotation in spring/summer, then beans and okra would be sown here.
    When that crop has finished, in that same bed, the alliums will follow.
    • So alliums follow legumes.
    • You can choose from onions, shallots, leeks and Garlic.

    Following on from Alliums, you would go to root and fruiting crops.
    • Root  and fruiting crops follow alliums or the onion family.

    There’s quite a choice here, but in winter it might be potatoes, parsnips, carrots, beetroot and in spring or summer, sweet corn, tomatoes and capsicums.

    Still in bed 1. There’s one more rotation before you can plant the legumes again.
    The last thing to go in this bed is from the brassicas.
    • Brassicas are then following root and fruiting crops.

    Hopefully you know the brassica family really well.
    They include in autumn/winter cabbages, English spinach, broccoli, turnips and parsnips, depending on your district of course.

    • In spring/summer you may want to plant silverbeet, radishes, mustard greens and pack choi.

    If you don’t have enough room for 4 beds, even 4 little vegetable beds, then you need to just stick to one crop.
    You’re probably wondering what do I plant in the other beds?
    Stay with me, because it can seem complicated.
    Remember I started off with legumes in bed 1.
    • At the same time, and in bed 2, I would be on to Brassicas.
    • Also at the same time and bed 3, I would plant out something from the root and fruiting crops.
    • And, at the same time, I would plant something from the onion or allium family in bed 4.

    So if you were in a warm temperate area right now, this is what you could have in your veggie garden, assuming the beds aren’t that big.
    Bed 1, climbing peas-yes they are legumes
    Bed 2 sprouting broccoli, from the brassica family
    Bed 3 carrots, root crops of course
    Bed 4 garlic and leeks. From the onion family or alliums.
    That wasn’t so hard was it?
    AND THAT WAS YOUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY!

    Wednesday, 8 April 2020

    Deter Mosquitos with Plants and Grow Chicory

    • DESIGN ELEMENTS

    Planting to Deter Mosquitos

    The warmer months of the year can become the bane of a gardeners life, or in fact anyone who likes the outdoors, if hordes of insects invade your personal space. 
    I’m talking mainly mosquitos,  because they bite, but flies can just be just as annoying if your relaxing in your garden, or having friends and family over for a bbq.
    So what can we do to deter them?
    Pelargonium graveolens: scented geranium
    I'm talking with Glenice Buck, consulting arborist and landscape designer www.glenicebuckdesigns.com.au
    Let’s find out more.

    There are plenty of foliage plants that have a particular fragrance which deter insects, but you have to plant a lot of them, not just one or two.
    Brushing the foliage releases the scents, so plant them close to where you entertain.
    Most successful plants are what you think of as herbs: mint, basil, lemon scented verbena, sage.
    Catnip, lavenders, scented geraniums, bee balm (Monarda spp.)
    The biggest tip is not to expect the lone rosemary shrub or Tea tree Mozzie Blocker (Leptospermum liversidgei) , to do that heavy lifting in terms of fragrance.
    Mozzie Blocker tea tree.
    Plant them right around the area where you sit and enjoy your garden so they act as a buffer zone between you and the insects.
    • You need an armarment of plants between you and the invading hordes.
    If you want to know more or if you have any questions about plants to deter mosquitos, why not email realworldgardener@gmail.com or write in to 2RRR P.O. Box 644 Gladesville NSW 1675.

    VEGETABLE HEROES


    Chicory! Cichorium intybus
    Have you ever eaten chicory?
    • What do you do with it other than give it to your chooks? Apparently the leaf chicory is very good for them?

    Did you know that there’s actually two types of chicory, both of which are considered a vegetable?
    There’s the leafy type and the one where the tap root is used more.
    But let’s begin with some interesting facts.
    • Chicory comes from the daisy or Asteraceae family, and like dandelion, chicory has been grown since ancient times as a pot herb.
    • A pot herb is one you put in a pot along with your meats and vegetables and cook together for a while-usually a long while.

    Chicory is most likely native to the Mediterranean region and it’s an interesting plant because it’s been used in coffee substitutes and additives where the roots were baked and ground.
    You probably didn’t realise that Chicory used as a coffee substitute during the Great Depression in the 1930s and during World War II in Continental Europe.
    • Do you realise that if you’ve ever drunk a coffee substitute, like Caro, then you’ve drunk roasted chicory root?
    Some beer brewers even use roasted chicory to add flavour to stouts.Some other beer brewers have added it to strong blond Belgian-style ales, to add flavour to the hops, making a "witlofbier", from the Dutch name for the plant.
    • So how come chicory can be used as a coffee substitute?

    Chicory contains two polysaccharide, inulin and fructose.
    When these are roasted, inulin is converted to something called oxymethylfurfurol, OXY-METH-OL-FUR-FUR-OL and this gives off that coffee-like aroma.
    • Did you know that the first person to grow and process chicory in Australasia was Edwin William Trent (1839 - 1883)?

    Eddy or Edwin, operated a steam coffee mill in Nelson in New Zealand, and later moved to Christchurch where he established the first steam coffee mill in Australasia in1863.
    Did you also know that Chicory, or Cichorium intybus, was grown as a crop on Phillip Island for nearly 100 years from the 1870s?
    • If you’ve visited Philip Island you’ll see some unusual small brick towers dotted about the island.These are chicory kilns, once used in drying chicory dock – a parsnip-like underground root of the Chicory plant that was grown widely in Phillip Island’s rich volcanic soil.

    Are you thinking, I’m not going to bother drying and roasting the chicory root, what on earth do I need to grow this ahem, vegetable?
    Here’s the reason: Chicory is actually a nutritious food.
    The leaves of the chicory plant can be eaten in salads to add flavour and crunch.
    They can also be lightly roasted in olive oil.

    You can buy seeds of Chicory “Red Dandelion: this plant has red stems with deeply cut frilly deep green leaves.
    As a microgreen or ‘baby leaf’ this variety adds great flavour to salads and it’s a colourful addition to any mesclun mix.
    If you get the red variety, it’s one of the few red leafy vegetables that keeps the crimson colour when cooked.
    Chicory ‘Red Palla Rossa’ is a small heading chicory, 8 - 10 cm across .
    The bright red, very tight heads have prominent white midribs. It has a slightly bitter, tart taste.
    As a ‘baby leaf’ they add great flavour to salads.
    There’s also the coffee chicory plant or Chicory Coffee 'Magdeburg' which also has the same botanical name of Cichorium intybus.

    So What Is Chicory Plant?
    This chicory is also a frost hardy plant but with a long taproot topped by a whorl of oblong, broadly toothed, milky-sapped leaves.
    The flowers are on top of 1 ½ metre tall, zig-zagging flowering stems with a few sparsely placed leaves and lots of sky-blue to purple flowers.

    Flowering is mostly in summer and the 50 cent-sized flowers open at the beginning of the day but close as the heat becomes intense.
    Chicory plants flower for several months and the flower looks quite a lot like a purply-blue dandelion flower.
    Like dandelion, the seeds are spread by wind.
    Also, like dandelion, the leaves are concentrated in a whorl, just above the soil surface.
    If you really wanted to you could dry and roast the roots, then grind them for a coffee substitute.
    The leaves and young roots can also be cooked as vegetables.
    The roots can grow up to 30 cm long and weigh as much as 1 kg.
    The one I have in my garden has been there for over a year so I’m guessing that it’s going to have a heavy large underground root.
    Chicory is a hardy vegetable and frost tolerant but does wilt a bit on hot days.
    It’s a useful cool season crop to add interest to winter salads.
    • When To Grow?

    To grow the leafy Chicory, for sub-tropical areas, April to June is the time to sow, in Temperate areas March until May, for Arid areas June to August, and Cool temperate districts, sow late summer to mid-autumn.
    • In all cases sow the seeds directly where they are to grow.

    So to grow Chicory you need a well- drained, deep soil.
    Chicory will also grow on heavier soils as long as they’re not likely to get waterlogged for extended periods.
    • Are you wondering if Chicory is just as weedy as Dandelions?

    It’s unlikely to become a weed since plants tend be short lived.
    If you’re growing the coffee chicory, the fleshy taproot of the first year’s growth is dug up in winter, dried, ground and roasted.

    (Roast the roots on low heat (around 250 C) until crisp, then grind with a little roasted barley (around 400F or so) for a wholesome coffee substitute.
    It contains no caffeine and just adds bulk to coffee, although its bitter flavour can give bland coffee a bit more "bite".)
    • Here’s an interesting fact: Coffee is readily available now in all types of strengths but until the 1960s, before instant coffee was invented, coffee and chicory essence was a popular alternative to using roasted coffee beans.
    • Do you remember that thick black liquid with a very distinctive attractive aroma and sold in squarish bottles with a blue label? It was often drunk with sweetened condensed milk.

    Why is Chicory, good for you?
    One of the major functions of chicory is to increase the body’s ability to absorb calcium.
    The leafy greens of chicory are a good source of calcium and vitamin K;
    They also contain folate and like other green vegetables chicory contains good  amounts of potassium.
    Chicory is also good for the digestion, and the circulatory system.
    From an agricultural point of view, Chicory is used as a short and medium term forage, and is an alternative to lucerne in areas where soils may be too acid for lucerne. Tolerates a pH down to 4.2
    AND THAT WAS OUR VEGETABLE HERO SEGMENT FOR TODAY